horsepower

Gary, I'd go with the red dash, & door garnish mouldings, & tan carpet, to me that would just be logical for an open car, that the dash would appear to be an extension of the cowling. But that's just my thoughts, for what they're worth.

I know it's a strange deal, Chevy called them a Fleetline, Olds, & Pontiac called'em a Torpedo, & Cadillac called them Sedanettes, the guys at GM had some strange ideas, but no commonality.

Looks pretty good, but that body sure is straight for a "beater".

I like it, 'til you look close (that is if you know what you're looking for) you don't even notice that it has Old's front fenders, & Chevy rears. (taillights are the main give-away).

Is there someone who make a kit to convert the Revell Olds' to a Torpedo body style? And does anyone make a '50-'51 Pontiac torpedo body style, body/kit?

Michael, this is supposed to be a Drag car, you don't need/want a rear view mirror someone might be gaining on you, & in drag racing, it's totally impossible to block & get away with it! roflmsao!

I don't know about the pictures you are looking at, but from looking at the real car, (which I have inspected very closely as I have watched this car develop from "scrap to show worthy) the engine does sit level with the ground,, sort of, but the severe angle of the chassis at ride height results in the outlandish appearance of the engine in relation to the chassis, it is one of those "optical dillusions" lol.

Krylon "Thick Glaze" works much better, as it takes less coats for the clear to work, I hope to use it on my Petty Charger, after all,bigger scale= thicker clear.

I see people that are talking about using the Revell kit to build a full detail conversion but wouldn't it be easier to do most of the chassis work using the AMT full detail kit from the concept, they are still pretty easy to get, & cheaper than the Revell one at that.

Very well, I worked in an auto upholstery shop years ago ( the man I worked for was the one that came up with the formulas for the SEM dyes, they started with Pactra Aero-Gloss Dope for model airplanes) anyway I have re-dyed black interior in a Mercedes to a light tan for a dealership so they could make a sale, wasn't hard at all, still looks good 20 years later. I saw the car at a local car show last week-end.

John if you get stuck on something, you can call Todd Vanboekel in Redding, he's listed in the book (T&T Vanboekel) I'm sure he;ll answer any questions you might have, he might even have some better pictures of the car both finished & under construction that might help you out.

Beautiful job, this is (was, as it is now sold) a local car for me, there are a couple of things to point out, there is a raised panel that is sort of an arrow shape on the top of the cowl, if you look at the pictures closely you will see that it is not just a painted shape it is actually raised. You are very far into the build already but personally if it were me after seeing the car "up close & personal" I would have used a model A coupe for a start as it is extremely close to one of these in person, in fact one of the things Todd had a problem with is that people were always thinking it was a modified A coupe. For those that are into '60's Gasser types, Todd & his son are working on a '55 Chevy sedan that is just as far out there as the Nash is.

At first glance it sure has that "model" look to it, but on closer examination, there are just to many things that point to real, or it's a very large scale model. But I went with real on this one.

Might be just my perspective, but I was just looking at this month's Car Craft & there is a picture of a 1-1 car, & I'll be darned if it doesn't have the same misaligned side mouldings along with the mis-shapen C-pillar,& out of proportion roof mouldings, they must have used this car to get the measurements for the new model from Revell. Oh I will give you that on the real car the lock is in the proper position.

Or you can go to your local automotive paint supply & pick up some interior dye in the color you want, this is for use on flexible vinyl, plastic, etc. so it will work very well on the flexible parts in the AMT kits.

I can understand the rise in price from the time I bought the first one I owned, ($2.00) we all know what inflation is & what the cost of crude oil has done to anything that has to do with it. But,,, the one I picked up at the local Hobby Shop with a sticker over $30 is just to much for me, I don't need to relive that part of my youth that bad, there are newer kits coming out that I feel are a far better deal.

No

The Barnabas Van is based on the '33 Panel, that used '32 passenger car front sheetmetal, until around '37 this was common practice with most of GM stuff, the commercial vehicles used front sheetmetal from the previous years passenger cars. Of course this applies to Light Trucks, the '30 Chevy Truck would look like the '28-'29 front passenger cars that were drastically different than the sheetmetal that was on the Barnabas Van. Unfortunately I don't know of any plastic kits of the real early Chevy's I would like to find some also I had a 1:1 '31 Coupe years ago & would like to make a model of what it would have looked like if I hadn't sold it before I finished it (the guy I sold it to hasn't touched it since '86, so I don't feel that bad about not finishing it either.

I think this one's a model, or they really got carried away when they aired up the tires, one of these babies would definitely have a flat spot on the bottom of the tires.

The Monogram kit is in 1/24 scale.

It says in the original post that the wheels are from the "Orange Crate" & painted magnesium.

All it needs to look like a fresh "barn find" is a little hay & some "chicken droppin's" lol. Nice little A-Bone though!

I hope so, it'd be nice to see a '56 Sedan Delivery, ala John Diana, from Revell, wouldn't take a lot to do it either,

I may be wrong, (I thought I was once, a long time ago but I was mistaken)lol But there were a couple of the ASA kits that came with the wide five wheels, these appear to be the kit wheels, there are quite a few places that make some nice wide fives, you might check with Dirt Modeler (I think) they have some nice stuff.

From what I've read about this kit, it is highly recommended that you "anneal" the photo etched hinge parts before attempting to use them as it seems they are of a brittle nature as they arrive.