horsepower

Yes, The Revell Magnum, & Challenger kits.

I don't know about any resin ones, but the best one I've found (& it's in 1/25 scale) comes in the Revell "Beatnik Bandit II" it is currently out of production but copies can be found on Ebay fairly cheap, maybe someone would take one & cast it, I think there might actually be a market out there.

Really nice so far, but you could have probably save a LOT of putty if you had used a few Viper parts in the build, there is a lot of lines that closely resemble a Viper in there.

I saw this car in person, in '63, (yes, I'm that old) it is better looking now than it was then, thanks to the work by Gene Winfield & his crew. If I remember correctly, the original color was a Studebaker color, but the best we get in scale is the GM "Evening Orchid" from Testors. You did a really great job on a technical build.

Harry could've used the pics of that in the "Real or Model" thread.

It not noticeable on our scale, but the other difference is there is an X cast in the block (raised) under the passenger side cylinder head, it's about two inches tall & quite prevalent on the full size engines.

All that's needed now is to send it to me, I can see you've already lost interest.

Model, something about those front splitter braces that doesn't look quite right.

they just added "tabs" to the cage & rear quarters so they could bolt the top that had sawed off back on. it all looks good from the stands at 100 miles an hour. LOL

Do as I am, sand off the trim for the 210, find one of the old Bel-Air kits strip the chrome & apply the pieces to the "new" body, 'taint that hard & actually works out pretty well.

Has anybody else had a problem with at least one of the rear bumper mounts being broken? In all but two I've opened, they were that way.

I'm watching the re-play of that episode now, wouldn't have watched the re-run if I hadn't been alerted to the interesting point at the end. Thanks.

either it's larger than it appears from the outside, or those are very small people sitting in it.

for those that are questioning the "air box" for the supercharger option, there are two different set-ups for a force induction (actually three) one is a "blow through" that is the type in the photos, it requires a carb that is specially modified to seal up at all of the potential places the extra pressure could "leak" out, (you have to remember, carbs are designed to operate with a vacum signal, not a pressure), the second is for the type of box that comes in the kit, & it is a totally enclosed pressure unit so the blower can't force air out of the carb. The third is the type that Pontiac used on the Trans Am's & it is a "plate/adapter" that sits under the carb with the forced air coming into that via a intake tube from the forced air source, (in this case, usually a turbo charger).

to those that are talking about the NASCAR convertible division, we don't need a "new" kit to do this as a lot of the "convertibles" that were raced in that division were actually just the "hardtops" with the roof removed to qualify it as a convertible, if you can find a few pictures of some of those cars you can actually see where in some cases the top was removed with the "ol liquid air wrench" (to those that aren't familiar with the terminology, that's a cutting torch.) & as to using the windshield frame & up top from the '55, the '57's used a lower frame than the '55's.

I must be doing something wrong, I went to the local LHS yesterday I according to Horizon Hobbies, the kit won't be available to them until late January, I assume that this is because it is on backorder? I also picked up the boxes of the new 11.75x16 Racemaster slicks from AMT, & was very disappointed in them I didn't buy a set because of the six boxes they had there were only two to three sets in each box that had the lettering in proper registration, I don't want to pay that much for six sets of tires, & have to re-do half of them..

Leave the rear fender trim, that makes a great point of reference & adds a little "flash" to the side view (also helps people recognize it as an "Olds".

Nice job, I really like your lace job, brings back a lot of memories from my early days as a painter. I bet the real reason you deleted the original post was so your wife wouldn't find out what happened to her new Victorias Secret underwear. LOL

This isn't really that hard of a kitbash, if you're really interested in building one, I know of at least two in our area that were done, using the AMT '55 Nomad, & the AMT '53 'Vette as suppliers.

Just curious why was it so hard to find a Flywheel ring gear? Ones for the 2.3 are still available from about a million places, the small diameter V-8 one is still on the after market, & I believe you can get a new flexplate, (if it had the auto) from Ford, & the w.8 V-6 flywheels were made up to '89, & you can still find new ones from several aftermarket clutch & flywheel companies. I had a somewhat similar problem with a 2.0 Pinto flywheel, but it was a rare Macleod aluminum flywheel that went out of production, & the ring gear itself was one for a 2.0 Automatic flexplate, & I couldn't find a shop that would do the swap as it needed to be drilled to fit the flywheels rivets, & they had half the hole on the flywheel, & half in the ring gear. made me cry to have to scrap a $200 (1978 dollars) flywheel.

I have a half dozen or so of each one of these, & every time I pack for NNL West, I throw a couple in, but usually when I get there I think "what if these go the way of other great Chevy kits & disappear forever in some dusty storage facility" (like my garage)? & put them back in the "keep" pile, someday I will build a couple. (I can't say what my wife says about that, moderators you know)

Not really, Ford Motor Co. did the same.

After crawling under one of the newer Mustangs on a local lot (they must've thought I was a bit off as we were buying a new Optima) I discovered there is no metallic in the "sealer" that Ford has on the Mustang floor pan, it is actually almost a perfect match to the K-2 urethane primer that some of use under a lacquer paint job, it is a yellowish orange sort of color, almost a real light Ochre (but not quite). Also just FYI, those fuel tanks on the sides of the driveline are either a gray plastic, or a semi gloss black plastic depending on production dates.

If you were using your paint stand after it was emptied, that could explain the problem with detaching some of the parts from their trees.

I may be wrong, but I assumed the reason it dropped out of sight was a licensing problem, what with the Die Cast being available & all.