horsepower

There are several models of the Challenger, just none of the Hellcat- - - yet.

I liked the body of the AMT version better, I did assemble the body completely first,then cut down the locator pins on the chassis,and trimmed the very front portion of the chassis away, this allows you to put the chassis into the completed body and the front portion of the chassis you have to trim off isn't visible after assembly anyway. Doing this allows you to get everything fitting perfectly on the body before starting any paint work, I also sanded the edges of the hood to open up the gaps to appear more to scale, to get them just what I wanted I took 400 sandpaper folded in half and put it into the hood to fender gap to make it exactly the same the entire way around the hood. I blocked the body down with 800 paper, then 1000 before priming to avoid to much primer filling in details. I got lucky and scored some water based Synergy Green from a friend who is a painter at a local body shop to apply to my ZL-1 when it's ready for paint. I'll do a clear coat of automotive Omni brand urethane clear for the final finish. .

If all he wants wanted to do was a styling experiment on ideas for customizing his 1:1 car, then the curbside is perfect, that's what I posted, but I also said if he wanted a fully detailed model, then the Revell kit was what he needed.

The Cadillac XLR, built on the Corvette platform was actually in production for awhile. There's a black one that could pass for this in town I see it a couple of times a month.

If you want to just model what you're doing to the body and stance, I'd use the AMT kit, but if you want to to include under hood details then your only option would be the Revell version, but the Revell does have an aero kit (front, side, and rear) that you could use for a start to build from for some body mods.

If you go to his photobucket site there's a great group of detail photos of final construction, and you can see in better details the machined oil tank, judging from the quality of the rest of his work my guess would be it's his work too.

Not that I'll ever be able to build anything close to what you do, but I have a technical question about the rules in that "class 15", you said you couldn't use anything that was developed later than 1980, what I'm curious about is the use of Alclad II, wasn't it introduced after 1980? Or do they just group it's use as a paint?

I think that if people were to just post pictures of their builds in a display type photo then we wouldn't have anyone picking up on details like the pitch of the teeth on a drive belt that's less than a half inch long anyway. If the pictures aren't such beautiful closeups that make a 1/24, or 1/25 scale model virtually appear to be a full size vehicle then no one could complain about it. The only time any person should be held to a higher standard for their builds is if they are building commissioned builds to museum quality standards, even professional model builders for the movie industry throw in obviously out of place pieces and details because they felt like doing so and it was their build, and like I said earlier, unless it was placed under extreme scrutiny no one even noticed. How many of you so called "details are so important to the public" builder's actually think a futuristic space craft capable of inter galactic travel would use the frame of a 1957 Chevrolet in its construction? Did anyone ever notice the Millennium Falcon actually had one on it before we were treated to a very close up photo of some of the details the builders put into it? And how many people wrote a letter to George Lucas, or the model builders at Industrial Lights and Magic, to complain that they were expected to do better, and that piece totally ruined the entire image of the model and they should do better?

most of the cars have separate scavenge lines for the upper and lower parts of the engine so that horsepower robbing oil draining onto the crankshaft is avoided, and if anything breaks in the top end it can't get into the lower end. Also there is a small line from the oil galley from the camshaft that is tapped into at the front of the engine a small -4 (1/4") line runs to each valve cover where it connects to a tube welded inside and runs the length of the cover with a small hole drilled at each valve spring so cooling oil is sprayed directly onto the valve springs to help them live.

Love those headers, where'd they come from? I haven't seen any races where Donny had chrome finished headers, most of the time they're black, and strangely they're glossy, and looked like a spray can paint job, but a lot of their headers were just wiped down with ATF while clean, then ran until they got hot enough to burn the ATF off, this leaves a coating that will keep them from rusting, and looks almost black but is more of a burnt look, than bare steel. Keep us posted, this is looking good.

Personally I think it's a great forum. I also race radio control Sprint cars, and I'm on the DODC, forums, mainly the Best Of The West site, and it can be a war zone at times. I've been told that the forums aren't the place to put a suggestion for solving a problem, and have been drug through the muck so many times I feel like a mudpie. But I keep telling those people that if they want to see how a forum should work to check out this group, that on the whole it's a good group of people who are generally willing to help each other, not bash on them.

You can find a set of those wheels in Revell's snap kit of the '57 Chevy Bel-Air hardtop.

Actually Wheatland yellow is School Bus Yellow, it used by GM on its trucks and the companies that purchased GM chassis to construct bus's from started using it, and it became pretty well the standard color, if you order it from an auto paint supplier, order pre 1975 paint year. After that it requires a clear top coat to achieve its gloss. And the interiors of the McClure racing Kodak cars were finished in gull gray gloss as most Cup cars were.

Probably because it's not in HO scale, or 1/64th so you can't use it for your train layout, or to display your matchbox, or NASCAR collection on. And it's BIG most of us will be hard pressed to find a spot to display something this long after the tractor is attached.

The "old" SWC Willys kit is a totally different model from the newer version, it's the older (in real life) version of the car with the Old's engine and not the Chrysler, and is actually a legal gasser with two seats, and all the show worthy interior and shiny pieces. The newest Willys is just a generic coupe with the appropriate decals to make it appear close to the SWC car. Just my personal preferences, but I'll take the older "finicky" kit over the new one all day long.

I'd look for the police version to be possibly a Model King release, just as the sedan was done.

The intakes for the NASCAR Chevrolet engines that are the SB 2 style are usable for the LS engines, you can also easily adapt the Ford NASCAR intakes, and are a little taller, and have a two inch spacer built into them.

This is almost identical to the '60 my dad bought new here in town, he bought the first Corvair the dealer sold in 1960, and the first Chevelle Malibu in 1964. Ours had a white roof, I don't remember seeing any solid black ones.

you could come over close to this gold color by using a candy base coat like HoK Solar Gold and using a clear top coat, the Solar Gold is probably a bit coarse of a metallic, but most of the other paint companies use a base gold with a finer metallic.

In the late sixties there was a local drag racer that raced one of those with a 327, 2x4 cross ram manifold and the allowed engine setback, in a/msp. He always ended up in the final against a new Corvette 427 roadster/convertible, that was sponsored by the local Chevrolet dealership.

I'll take the '61 and '62, it would be exceptionally nice if they have both tops.

Color me red, my mind was thinking. "High tech eco boost" and by the time it got to my fingers, something got lost in the translation, and it came out "eco tec". lol And I really don't think he meant that it isn't just the first time turbo engines have been used in Mustangs, If so why say THESE engines were also used in the Thunderbird turbo coupes? But it's an easy mistake, when they switched to the new style engines in the Rangers, I was perplexed where they found all the new horsepower, until I finally got a chance to look under the hood of one.

Use purple power, or denatured alcohol, or 91% isopropyl alcohol to strip the old brush paint off. It should fall off in a couple of hours, overnight at the most. If you have to dismantle another model assembled with super glue, use the "water" method, dip the car in water and place in a freezer. The expansion of the freezing water will generally separate most of the super glued pieces and loosen the others so they can easily be separated with a sharply #11 blade and some liquid cement, cut lightly along the seams and flow some liquid cement along them and gently use one or more blades to pry the pieces apart.

Great looking models, Harry could have probably used these in the "Real or Model" forum.

When I first saw it, I thought it was Amelia Earhart's, but when I found a picture of hers the wheels were the wrong color and after doing some "sleuthing" (imagine that, me actually doing work!) I also discovered that this one's a different year. :-)