whale392

I am building a model of one of the semi trucks my dad drove. I have one reference pic to go by, and his memory. Luckily, most everything I will need is available (ok, was made anyway) to complete the build. Will it be 100%? No. But will it make dad happy? Yup! My Mustang builds; I can walk out into either my garage or driveway and have unlimited access to reference material (the real cars). If that doesn't quite do it, belonging to 5 different Mustang forums will usually turn up what I am looking for. So I have a rough plan, but build/modify as I go/as needed.

Might have to see if I can worm a set of those heads out of you, Mike, and detail them up for a set of AFR225s!

This is part of the reason I like the FOX Mustang chassis. The guys who own them and the guys who like them can have a civil conversation (with both facts and opinions) without it blowing up into some flame-fest. Keep at it Jordan; and a White SVO (as long as all the proper trim detailing is done) looks good. You did an admirable job of trying to convert the (not even a good representation of it) SROD 4 speed (which was not even offered after mid-83) into the T5 5 speed trans. The two little nibs you see behind the oil filter are supposed to be the oil cooler/turbo water cooled center section lines. Believe me when I say it is a convoluted mess of piping/lines! As shallow as the detail is, I myself wouldn't even bother with trying to get that detail laid in (or if I did, I would scratchbuild it). Once the 84-specific intake is on the head, that detail disappears anyway.

Hey Mark, wondered when you would come in! 85-86 got the expanded color palette, 84 was a short color run. However, if accuracy isn't an issue, color is completely up to you. I am doing an 85.5 SVO right now with the '08 Bullitts and in 1993 Calypso Metallic. Accurate as built, nope. Accurate as a friends car, yup!

At least the engine is already correct for the 84 backdate. Headlight buckets aren't too bad, as the kit gives you ample room to recess them. Not that it can be replicated easily in scale, but EARLY 84 SVOs tail light lenses are different than later 84-86 units in that the upper 3 1/16th inch stripes stopped at the back-up 'white' section of the tail light. Mid-84 to 86, the stripes continued all the way through.

Didn't the 'Good Guys' versions of most of the original kits have some sort of Billet steering wheel included? I believe the 1/24th scale 30 Ford Woodie had a billet wheel in it.

If you are going to use a 'Magnum' style wheel (as both Ford and Mopar used that sexy wheel) but in larger diameter, I will suggest getting a set from Casey (a member here). They are about 21"-23" diameter white resin, and are some of the cleanest, blemish-free castings I have ever received. Shoot them in some Gloss Black, mask the depressions and Alclad the rest and you will have a VERY nice set of 'new Magnums' for this build. Then, see Mike (Shucky) for some of his ProChargers or Turbos and build up a nasty 427 SOHC or Boss429 mill for this and go Pro-Touring route. I would even use the Torino roof like what is suggested above, much smoother and sexier in profile than the Box-bird roof now installed.

Columbus club meets at a Panera Bread store in Westerville every first Thursday of the month, starting at roughly 7pm-ish. They go until roughly 9, when Panera closes. I am a member of the club, but have missed the last two meetings due to other pressing engagements. The club info is: Buckeye Scale Auto Club and can be found at bsacohio.com. The site will give you meeting times and locations, plus a glimpse into who some of the members are and the works they produce. I spent 4 years as a Naval Airdale myself, fixing and flying in the E2-C/C2-A platform.

If you have a mini-drill set and some stiff wire, you could drill into both the manifold and the mid-pipes, glue the wire into the manifolds, and then glue the mid-pipe to the manifolds over the wire (using the wire as an internal alignment pin, if you will).

Nice little 'K', Rick! I love these little cars, and this one is just cool!

Where's the Buick 225 in this, Romell? I see Chrysler 300 Letter car flanks and tail-lights, but no 225 stuff. Maybe the front fenders? (Nope, front is a Mercedes, and the sides between front fenders and rear quarters look to be either Comet or Falcon goods)

There used to be a club that met in Yellow Springs area too. Can't say I have had much in the way of luck in the Dayton area....I drive to Columbus every month for the Buckeye Scale Auto Club meetings. By the way, I am going to go out on a limb here and say you are an airman stationed at Wright-Patt?

Because it is far cheaper and space-friendly than building all the cars I would own in 1:1 scale!

This applies to PMs too.

Mike, As the SN95s aren't really my cup of tea (even though I pirate a large sum of their parts for my FOX cars....1:1 that is), I can appreciate a well done SN. Are you going to mini-tub the rear to fit those tires under it, or leave it as it sits? The heads remind me of either AFR 225s or a set of Sportsman heads. So far, it looks good to go, Mike. The only thing I can see is the rear ride height versus the front ride height.

Any chassis plate from any of the various Monogram 1/24th scale Mustang kits will work (as they are all the same). As to the interior; yeah, that is Cobra specific. I don't have a spare Cobra interior, but I have 4 spare chassis plates.

Now, about those plug ends....... Thanks for sharing, Steve.

That was the joke in my post, Harry!

Interesting to say the least. Total flight of fancy and one would have his soft-stuff sucked right off sitting in front of those grinding Hoovers! (Que the flame-thrower mafia now) Question: This thing has 3 jet engines powering it. Why 6 fat, gummy slicks where traction isn't needed and two skinny pizza-cutters where it would be needed?

Yes John, you shot it for nothing. SQL Server error FTL!

You would think we would be worried about fixing the dreaded slow connect/refresh times (if you can even connect to the site) before posting new 'rules' governing the 'workbench' section.........but nobody can 'bully' if they can't get on! And to have a reply not go in 4 different times in 1 session because of SQL server errors? This IS getting bad.

Model Car Garage did a photoetch fret for the late model Mustangs. It has the 'Running Horse' and the Cobra 'Coiled Snake' emblems in the fret. The photoetch number is MCG-2153 if you feel like trying to locate it (I bought mine about 10 years ago).

No need to thank me, I just wanted a place to build and share the FOX Fords with others. It is the other way around; I have to thank all of you for making this work and for building some very nice FOXes. I have let you all down by not having anything done. My only excuses are shear laziness and the fact that I have been working on my 1:1 Mustangs ever since warmer weather got here. I have so many FOX projects going that I sometimes forget where I am at on which one, and suddenly find myself staring at overwhelming mounds of plastic! The community build was a timed event, and it has run its' course. Now, this has become a FOX corner of sorts; it is a place where all FOX lovers can congregate and show what they are working on with other like-minded individuals. Never feel like you can't post a FOX build here, no matter the build time/date, it is welcome. Thank you again guys; because of YOU we have this thread, with lots of great builds and ideas in it. It is our baby, not just mine. I will feed it when I can and I still encourage you all to do the same!

I believe Jordan White, Gregbbear, and Jeff Johnston have also completed theirs as well. OK, time to open-end this thread. This now becomes the home of FOX builds! Date changed and set!

I have been looking at pics all day (here and at home on the computer) and have been having a re-occurring thought for months. I just decided to vocalize it today, after reviewing a lot of my builds/project 8mp pics on my 18" monitor. Is it possible that by reviewing pics at such a large scale and resolution that we can use what we learn/see in those pics to build better and cleaner models? A magnifying glass and powerful light source used to be the best we had for picking out detail/building with. Can we, in conjunction with these stand-by tools, use the screen to find and correct flaws before the model is finished? Could it actually help us to build cleaner/more precise models? Or am I just crazy?