my66s55

Yes, it is Dominik. It does get better though. watch and see. Making the engine block. Again, 4 separate prints on the fdm machine to get the best parts. The stl. files of complete engine.

So, I've got a rough sided piece of styrene plastic that I want to get into the shape of a radiator coweling. After approximately 25 minute of sanding off of the support material, I still have to continue to do body w One coat of Bondo is added and left to set up. Than sanded. After two more light applications, I have one half of the part done.

Yes, whole car bodies have been printed on dlp machines. They were a smaller scale, but complete. I printed out the doors jams on back of this 35 LaSalle last January that was close to 1:25. I also started printing the frame as one peace and stopped just before the cross members. My purpose for this post and the one last January is to educated people on what is really going on and to hopefully peak enough interest that some will pick it up.

I spent a good deal of yesterday printing and finishing the radiator coweling in order to show what it takes to get a finished part From an fdm filament machine. Printing the parts: And then what it looks like from the bottom with the support material still attached. It has to be sanded down to totally remove this added material.

I couldn't agree more. Different scale, different display shelf.

Welcome to the forum Chris. I would tend to agree with you on most of your post. The part about 10 years to get to a point of high detail usable parts is not correct. It's already here. My second printer that I finished building and did my first prints on this past Christmas Day is a dlp uv resin curing photolithic machine. At that time, I made this post "3d printed LS engine block." look it up. It's in the general section. I have since made improvements to the machine and it keeps getting better. If you stay tuned to this post, I will get to the front suspension and I believe you will be suitably impressed as i'm going to show the two printing process results side by side.

This type 3d printer uses filament plastic. There are different types of plastic and as I mentioned earlier, I use h.i.p.s. The pellets are used by a d.i.y. person who has a machine to melt them down and produce the filament.

This is a tough one. If I had the same files that made these chassis parts and printed with the same nozzle diameter at the same layer height and the same speed, I would guess about 8 hours. Part of the print process is the heating up and cooling down of the heated bed. It takes time to heat up to 180 degrees to print and then cool back down to room temp to remove the part from the bed. Each frame rail took 1 hr and 15 minutes just for the printing. The first frame rails I printed came out like this and were totally a waste.

Both Fisher Body and LaSalle service manuels are available in the internet. I also have a decent 1934 lube chart. All are very detailed.

This were my end results

and more

The frame consists of 16 separate pieces. The following are the stl. files that were used to print them.

Okay. People have had their say about what they think or have experienced on this technology. I want to keep this on track and use it for informational purposes to show what can and can't be done, at least what I have been able to accomplish. This model is in 1:18 scale. There is a reason it's in that scale and anyone wants to know why, I will tell if asked. The parts printed on the fdm machine are made of hips plastic. I started with the frame.

This is a project that has been underway for a couple of years. I,at first, started a coupe version of this model in 1:24 scale about 4 years ago. Everything was fine except I couldn't create the 2 front fenders the mirror image of each other. After following the development of the open source fdm printers, I decided to take the plunge in November of 2012 and started to build my own desktop machine. Having just the machine was not enough. I had to teach myself how to to draw, create if you would, a usable, accurate and 3d printable stl file.This I did and by late summer, early fall 2013, the machine was operational. The next 3 to 4 months were spent learning the best orientation etc for the part to give the best result. Scaling. How to fix and properly set up the machine. This past fall, after following the next version in desk top printing, I decided to build a second printer which would be needed to complete my goal. Any of you who have seen my posts, knows what this machine will do. The following are jpegs of the stl files of the parts I have already created. I will follow them up later with the result of the printing and if requested, some pphotos of the exact creation process. This project is 60 plus % complete. Any questions, feel free to ask.

For all you Happy Day's fans. The song Blueberry Hill was originally written in 1940 and recorded 6 times. The largest selling version was by Glen Miller.

Talk to me. A song first sung by by Little Willie John in 1958, hit the charts again in the 1963 version by Sunny and the Sunglows. There are a multitude of covers for this song.

Interestingly enough, the version by the Everly's was an add on in an alblum. The 1961 version by Roy Orbison climbed to # 5 on the Australian charts.

I have a Harbor Freight variable speed corded tool. I also have had two Dremel cordless that didn't last. Harbor Freight tools are a lot better than they used to be. If you buy one, make sure to get the one with the cord as I have a cordless and the battery charge doesn't seem to last long enough for me. The go from very slow to very fast and are adjustable.

Yes, clear plastic 3d printing is definitely hear. Check out this monocle done on a form 1 at Form labs. http://formlabs.com/company/blog/2014/09/24/lenses-3D-printed-formlabs/ Then there water clear prints here http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2681 And then this for print speed increase. http://3dprint.com/54864/super-fast-3d-printer/ Keep in mind that this 3d printer was printing at 10 micron layer thickness and that 100 mm is roughly 4" and that it is a dlp desktop machine that is able to print a larger footprint subject in the same time frame.

Looks real to me.

Yea Art. But, you have to remember,with injection molding subjects, If you want a specific part or model, you have to rely on the kit manufacturers or the after market for parts or models. This is not the only system to speed up sla printing. Once I can get this worthless Windows 8.1 off this new laptop, I'll show you what else is developing. I hate Windows. I can't believe how long it took just complete this post and what I went through and get it right.

I have found it at Michael's years ago, but they stopped carrying it. Hobby Lobby carries a different brand than what I have, but it should work just as well. You are looking for "metal leaf adhesive" not "gold leaf bond".

Yes I am that old. 70 in January of this year. I built this model as a teen and still remember it well. As in the 1:1 world of pre world war 2 vehicles, I believe that certain vehicles should be preserved as a testimonial to the era of their conception. To build it, especially since there have been so many releases, would destruction of a part of history.

I'm going with real on this one. I'm not gonna say why.