my66s55

Who cares whats traditional. it's what you want now in your build. What turns you on, floats your boat, makes you happy.

I saw the post David and gave my response. Here is my post in reference to my response. 1:18 scale vs 25 or smaller. Observe, believe, understand.

Oooh. My head hurts. Those of you who are not following my 1935 LaSalle wip, should be. I'm not going to go into a lot of detailed corrections of the miss information in this post. Watch for my next post. 1:24th scale body in detail? Try less than 1:24th scale front suspension parts in great detail. Psst. I've done the same 1:18th scale body in 1: 24th or 1:25th with no problem. I'm not going to address any other statements as I don't have enough time. Take it from me. I've been there, done that and doing that. All at home.

It will turn out just fine. hopefully, others will see that and understand that this is not rocket science. It is the future now and available to those who want to grasp it and utilize it.

Eric, I applaud you and you efforts. This technology could make all of you model dreams, wants come true. I don't have time, and Though I really like the Duesies, much of your work could be completed easily and in a timely manor. You know, if I could spell, I would enjoy posting more.

I wish I knew where you were coming from. You've lost me.

Thank You Bruce

Sorry Charles, I don't. I'm still learning plus it takes all of my time and effort for my projects. Here are the rear axel,printed some time last year on the fdm machine and surface finished and the pig, recently printed out on the high def dlp machine.

Why not? Real

Or on the light side, maybe Hairy Canary.

So Harry, have you done a Harry Houdini yet?

I'm working on finishing up the engine parts and had good progress over the weekend. These parts were printed on the high res dlp printer. I am extremely pleased with the engine head. It has bolt heads, goose neck and spark plugs. The second photo has the air cleaner, front of the engine bracket with timing chain cover and bolt heads and the water pump. I'm not happy with the water pump as it appears that I need to do a bit more work on the drawing. Again, these are exactly as they come off the printer with only a light dusting of primer. I want people to understand just how well parts can be printed at home.

These 2 and most of the prints from here on will be printed on my high resolution dlp printer that I finished building this last Christmas. Many of the pieces have not been drawn yet. I did this Stromberg 2 barrel downdraft carb this week. The exhaust and intake manifolds had been drawn and printed out individually and smoothed last summer. It's much easier to join them in an stl. file and print them out like this. These are exactly as they came off the printer and have a thin coat of primer to make them more visible. It appears as though I have left over cured resin trash in the print vat that showed up on the manifolds print. I need to strain it. The carb is a little less than 1/2 inch high.

The improvement of the supports for printing did make the inside come out better with a little effort.

This is it's current condition after going through the surface finishing. It still needs a little more work.

The body is made up of 3 sections. I'll start with the rear from the door jams back. The first time I printed it, it was made from five separate prints and the rear fenders were separate. Then, the slicing software was upgraded and the support improved so that it could easily be done in one print. These are some print in process.

I don't know how many more parts I have to print to complete this project. I say that because its always changing. Here is an example. The first pic is the wheel printed on the fdm printer. There are three pieces so there are three prints required to get the best result. then of coarse, you have to do the surface smoothing. The second pic is the same wheel printed on the high def dlp printer. What you see is exactly as it came from the printer except that I put a light coat of primer on to make it visible for detail.

Nothing new. This type thing has been going on around the world for years. Same type products, different city, different show.

The stl. files are mirrored and the process is repeated. Next, they go thru the same finishing process shown in an above post. A center connecting piece is then created and the fenders assembled. The final product:

The inner half of the drivers side. And the 1st pic is the section from the inner fender to the hood.

As I mentioned in my first post here, I attempted to scratch build this car in a coupe. I was stopped dead when I couldn't get the front fenders to even come close to looking the same. 3d printing fixed that. Here are the front fenders. Note that they are in 3 parts and solid. That's the way I could get the most accurate print. I used a motor tool to hollow them out and then ca glued them together. The outer part of the drivers side fender.

50

That's because the engine parts could be printed flat on the printer bed and didn't require any support material.

Then, the finished product assembled and resin cast.

Then the 4 prints plus the dead and front plate .