my66s55

What don't you understand about "good enough" Tom. This subject has been hashed out many time in the past. It all comes down to a persons seriousness in the hobby. If there's is not as serious as yours, accept that. Their happy with what they have created. It's a hobby and everyone get their own satifation out of their builds. It doesn't mean that's how they view everything in life, just their modeling hobby.

The old addage goes: The early bird gets the worm.

Posted in my computer, modeling, work room. Nuff said.

This is easy. My favorite muscle car is my 1966 Mercury S55 vert. Blew off a guy yesterday coming back from the store. Nothing but headlights in my rear view mirror. Maybe he didn't see those 428 markers on my lower front fender panels. He wanted to race.

I'm go'in with real.

Stevie not only sang "stand back", she wrote it Rob. She is , to me, the ultimate of female artists of her era. I can, and have. listened to her for hours. Here she is singing one of me favorites from the 1979 Fleetwood Mac alblum Tusk- "Sara. First, with Fleetwood Mac in 1979 on the cut version and then the first 29 years later in 2008 solo in concert of the full 7 + miniute orriginal version.

And it was still bigger. A grape Nehi was a nickle and in Michigan, you could scout out 5 empties and trade them in for a new for the 1 cent deposit. A mug of A & W root beer was a nickle at there stand. The moral to the story is simple. Inflation happens. You can take advantage of this situation by buying today opposed to a higher price in the future. The choice is yours.

When it was a nickle, it was bigger!

If you are really interested in this system, Art, check out this lenthy post on the H.A.M.B. board and get the scoop and then go to the Angel Guilding website to check out what is discussed in the H.A.M.B. post. I came across this a couple of years ago. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/diy-spray-on-chrome.674441/ http://angelgilding.com/SpraySilver.html

Real. It looks really real to me.

Ah, Harry. Limonene, for your edification, melts styrene. In the 3d printing world you will see fdm printers with two print nozzles. This has a two fold effect. One, it allows for the printing in 2 different colors. The other is that it allows one print nozzle to print in abs and the other in hips. That's high impact styrene for those not familiar with the termonology. The hips is used for support material on angles greater than 45 degrees. The actual print is made from abs. Why use hips? Because when left in a bath of limonene overnight, it desolves styrene the same as acetone. The result is a finished print and no need for the p.i.a. of removing the support material. My common sense assumption to this is that if it works the same as acetone on styrene, it should weld the pieces together. It might take longer though as I can't comment as I have no first hand experience . Keep in mind that limonene is found in food and cosmetics. Web M.D. says that is may destroy cancer cells. If I'm looking for an alternative to the potentially harmful glue available, a limonene based product makes sense. It does not fit into todays microwave society real well if the result are not instantanious, but is a good alternative to those health conscious souls with concerns.

This should pretty well satisfy your doubt. The prints in these vidios are untouched and are exactly as you see them when they come off the printer. These printers are just now starting to show up in numbers. They work entirely different than the fff and fdm printers. http://www.electrictv.com/?p=15143 This one I want to try to build over the summer-http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-high-resolution-3D-DLP-printer-3D-printer/ It has a build platform of 4" X4" X however high you make the x axis and a layer thickness of 100nm. That is the distance between your thumb and index finger pinched together. They print from the top down vertically instead of bottom up horizontally. It should rum me about $1k. Enjoy. This is how the technology is growing, not these cheap knock offs listed in this thread.

You asked for it, I'll give it. https://www.google.com/search?q=dlp+3d+printer+kit&client=ubuntu-browser&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=dEySU-KLIuXC8QH_94D4CA&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAw&biw=1448&bih=743&dpr=0.67#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=RXbsBF6Xa8edIM%253A%3BEUxTXk5D7-3ivM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252F3dprinting.com%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252F2012%252F06%252FMiicraft-Eiffel-Tower.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252F3dprinting.com%252F3dprinters%252Fmiicraft-dlp-3d-printer%252F%3B460%3B512

I think this is a model.

I'll go with model.

Ken, I print with high impact polystyrene aka hips. Same thing used for scratch building. Prints nicer than pla, sands better and easily glues with ca glue or even welds with mec. I use 1.75 filimant as I bought an E3D solid mental hot end at the begining of the year and thats what it uses. This one change plus switching to hipps improved my prints about 50 %. My heated bed is 220mm on the x axis and 320mm on the y. That's about 8.25 x 12.5 inches. Printing with hips is similar to printing with abs. Hot end needs to be 225 to 230 degrees C and the heated bed a steady 110 degrees C. I have found that using Bondo spot and glazing putty works great for filling low spots and grooves. Than I finish off using build primer and then a black guide coat before wet sanding with 400 wet or dry paper. Just like preparing a real car for paint. I don't get deep groove as I print with a .2 layer height for larger pieces and .1 for smaller.

And lastly, the interior side panels and front seat pieces for my 59 Plymouth Sport Fury vert. These are 1:24. I have to do some cleanup and repainting on them yet, but you get the idea. Semetrical. The key word for me is semetrical. All in all, the prints need some kind of finish work to them. Some alot, some little. The big thing for me is that I can produce a model, or models or parts that I would have a tough time scratch building. None of this can be done without being able to create a printable 3d file. The key word here is printable. Not all 3d files are printable. That's learning curve 1. Learning curve 2 is learning how to operate your printer. Learning curve 3 is learning how to print the best part. This, many times, involves going back to the 3d file and modifying it. So again, It all starts with being able to create the printable 3d file.

Here are more prints in process. The rear body section was made from 5 prints, the front and rear fenders and grill from 2 pieces in each. Then you have to sand and grind out the support with a motor tool. Again, notice how both sides of the grill frame and the body are semetrical.

Parts I just printed today. The streight 8 engine block block for the 1934-36 LaSalle. These are exactly as they came from the printer. Notice that the one side had to be made into three prints as the orientation for the best print was not the same for all three. Notice the detail. I suppose I should tell you that these are all 1:18 and anything smaller would result in some peices being unprintable. I had to change the thickness on some of the arms of the suspension pieces as they were too thin and broke easily.

The frame and front suspension pieces. Still some work to be done. There is built up build primer on some of the suspension pieces. The prints are cleaner that they appear. Notice how everything is semetical. 9 separete pieces for the frame itself, not counting suspension pieces. The front suspension will be functional and ant glued together.

I spent a good part of today preparing for this post. Mike, I checked out you engine on Grabcad on I am in complete awe. It is truely amazing. Youasked about resolution so I am going to post up pictures of some of my work. Ken, I am in agreement with most of what you said except having an acceptable material to print with. I started using hips this January and thus have a print that accepts paint, prints nicely, sands easily, etc. Mark, you crack me up. Your posts tell it like it is. The last post in Jordon's thread left me in stitches. Jonathon, I use Blender too. Tom, 3d printer are alot different than lathes. There is and tutorials everywhere. Remember, they are an open source product. So who am I to make all these statments? I am a 69 year young man with. A degree in business, major in accounting. In otherwords, I'm an accountant. I have no education or training in anything reguarding 3d drawing or printing. I say this because I want people to understand that anyone with the mindset can accomplish what I have in the last 1 1/2 years. I taught myself to use Blender. I build my own printer. I taught myself to use the printer and fix it when it messes up. Be aware that they all mess up. Even the 2k ones and you better be able to correct the problem. I'm trying to keep this simple and not get side tracked. Onward to the examples. The frame in my stl posted above. You have to learn orientation for the best print. I tried printing the frame rails and rear cross members as one print. Disaster. Support in all the hard to remove places and the print was plain garbage. Back to the drawing board. Printed the rails seperate layin on their side. The result is the frame on my desk.

Very nicely done. I think you may find this sight interesting, if you don't already know about it. https://grabcad.com/home I have to create stl files in order to print out model car parts. Here is a frame I drew up, printed out and mostly assembled.

Actually, I like the version of Ike and Tina Turner. I have it in my collection. But then, I'm of that era.

yea, but what's worse is that there are people who would beleive the realtor.

Big Mama Thorton Hound Dod - covered done by Elvis -http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxoGvBQtjpM