my66s55

If you are making tires search resin tires in the resin section of this forum for ideas.

I have found that by using Smooth-On's Mold Star found here: http://www.smooth-on...1341/index.html, that I have no need to degas the mold. I then use Smooth-On's Smooth Cast 305 found here: http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Plastic-a/c5_1120_1209/index.html in a pressure pot at 30 plus psi and get great casting. Both are 1:1 mix ratio which eliminates the need for a scale.

Yes , It did come out nice. Well done.

Well, don't know what to tell ya Harry. It's 90 outside with 55 % humidity right now ,but the real moisture factor is the dew point which is sitting at 72. It's supposed to rain. Looks like the weather forecasters were wrong-again.

Rob if you go to the IPMS Nationals show at Disney, are you wearing the birds? If you don't ,how will I recognize you?

I just clicked on the link in your post and it came right up and was fully accessible.

Real

go to this web site and learn how to properly do what you want to achieve. I know the answer, but your desired results can be better found here: http://www.tk560.com...ewforum.php?f=1

I think what Brian is trying to show you is the ease of using others drawings, or in my case, pictures and placing them into the background and using them as a guide to create whats called a mesh to make it 3d. I took this past week to teach myself to use Blender. Here is a 4 view example of my file. I'm just starting to apply the mesh on the center of the body.

Rob, the current machines I have seen use filiment made of ABS or PLA plastic. ABS is a strong plastic that is vaccuformed for thing like the interior parts for a 1:1 vehicle. PLA is a corn based substitute for polystyrene.

PLA plastic is corn based and meant to be an alternative to polystyrene. PLA, along with ABS plasic, are two filament plastics used in 3D printers. For more info on PLA, search PLA plastic.

In re of the original posters inquire, my personal experience has been to start with the Badger and then upgrade to the Paasche H. I have never found it difficult to clean or use. Note: If Donn Yost uses and recommends it, take it to the bank. I've owned a Badger 200, forget it, and a Passche VL which I found difficult to learn to use and clean. I paint model cars and parts, I'm not interested in laser fine lines. The H does a fine job for me and I'm happy with it. Oh yea, and use the # 5 needle per Donn's suggestion.

It's been awhile but I think I was about 6. It was just before the Gowland Highway Pioneers came out.

From brass era up thru the early 70's and built mostly stock.

I'm sayin' real again.

Good luck . If you find a "good" one let us know. I buy on line or Michaels

i'm saying real on this one.

This is another example from kennb. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50148&hl=kennb

I use the Donn Yost method. Works great.

My current avatar is my ongoing scratch build project. I update it when significant see able progress has been made. It's difficult to really see what it is in such a small picture, so here it is in a larger one.

I bought this off ebay about 10 years ago and built it about 2 years ago. I have not seen another one like it anywhere. It is comes stock with the six and a pre-wired distributor.

I don't think it is sad at all. Someone acting responsible for a change and knowing what they want in life is not sad. If anything, it's commendable.

Good guess Harold, The dash is the same color as the interior. This is my 1:1 S55 convert.

I'm going with real.

I saw this tutorial many years ago where the author makes a tool that's for drilling perfect plug wire holes. http://www.briansmod...als/tutorial/37