my66s55

For the first time ever, I received an email notification that a fellow member had sent me a message. Thanks Gregg. This new format is is working great for me.

It works perfect on my laptop. I really like the new format. Those of you using i.e., I here Microsloth is going to discontinue using it. I'm using Chrome on Linux. I also have Firefox installed, but Chrome is much faster.

I have built this kit and yes it is 1:24. It went together very nicely with no fitment problems. The colors of the plastic were good enough to just apply Future and the end result was very satisfactory.

Not if everyone ignores the agitators Ray.

No, your not the only one. The differences between your desire and mine are 1: I want stock. 2: I will have them, the good Lord willing and the creek don't rise. 3:you don't yet have the ability to fairly achieve this while I do. Both of these are on my to do list as well as many others.

Here's the intake & exhaust manifolds with the carb and air cleaner. I'll hold off attaching them to the engine until later as I have to handle the engine quite a bit before final assembly. I received the new resin on Friday and have been printing out new front suspension pieces which I will assemble next. It appears to be stronger than that which I was using.

I'm still waiting for resin. It should be here this week. Mean while, I'm working with what I have. This is the mock up of the frame, front fenders, front of body cowling, running boards and rear body shell. None of it is glued together. The running boards were printed over sized and trimmed to fit. The doors are also printed slightly longer to allow for shrinkage. Now that I have this mock up, I can get a correct length for those parts.

Bob, I'm a little confused on your question. Did you really intend on asking about prep work before printing or painting?

So ,o.k. It's been awhile since my last post and I promise anyone watching this that I will try not to post any non progress posts. I am waiting for resin. I can't do any more printing on the dlp machine. I've started assembling the engine and trans. Here are the results.

Personally, I don't think that the question at hand should be "What are the chances of the Modelhaus finding a buyer for their business". It should be-What are the chances of a buyer, or buyers, who purchases The Modelhaus being able to maintain the quality and service of the existing ownership. As far as those of you needing pictures. Your loss. There are enough testimonials on this board alone to convince anyone of what you are getting. Count me in as one.

There is another way of doing this. I saved the other way to my hard drive years ago. It involves a little more work maybe, but to me,a guarantee of success is more important. I can't put up the file as it was a few years ago and was probably lost in server changes thru the years. Basically, use the circle templete to find the desired diameter. Use the blue tape and cut out the inner part of the diameter. Tape the blue tape to the tire, spray white, remove tape. Done. No muss, no fuss.

My vote went for real.

O.k, ll play. My stock 1940 from a few years back.

AMT 29 Ford roadster AMT 57 Chrysler 300

I've only used Duplicolor and Rustolium silver. There was a thread on the BYO 3d printer forum and I believe It was stated you could use enamel, lacquer and acrylics. The Fun To Do resin website has a list of chemicals it is resistant to which include Alcohol/Ethylalcohol Thinner Hydrochloric acid and various other acids Sulphuric acid Acetone Petrol Isobutanol Xyleen Lamp oil / Motor oil / Olive oil / Brake fluid It's acrylic based and takes paint just like resins from rtv mold casts.

No Tom, I haven't started a second hobby. 3d printing for some is a hobby. They enjoy the build process and the search for ways to make it better. For others such as myself, it is a tool to use to create something to augment our hobby or profession. I have seen on the byo forum people who want to enhance their hobbies like model train and gaming figures plus more. On the professional side I have seen a multitude who are using the technology to enhance there professional vocation. These are mainly jewelers. The prints are good enough for that. There is going to come a time when all you have to do is install the printer, load some software maybe. get hold of or create the file, press print and sit back as it is printed out.

No Howard, I am just an average modeler. What I am is someone with a desire to do something to make happen my dreams of model car building cars that the model companies don't produce. I am also an optimist, not a pessimist. I have watched the development of 3d printing in the open source community since 2010. When Josef Prusa introduced his v3 in 2012, I watched and waited for the build instruction to come on line and others were building it. There were instructions, step by step, pictured. If I ran into a problem, which I did, I went on the forums and asked. The forums are just like here. Builders helping other builders achieve. there goal. When the dlp printers first came out, I followed the same type procedure. Computer wiz, deep pockets above average abilities? Not required. Only requirements, desire and knowing where to go to succeed. Add to that, the positive attitude and an "I can do this if they can" approach. High def dlp printers are a very simple machine.

"The same might be said for using 3D printing to make a model, 'not feasible'. Sure, if you are a computer genius and won the lottery and wanted to make a set of 3D blueprints for every part, then spend countless hours finishing them, sure you can have a 3D printed model". Howard. Go to the - on the work bench section just below this one. Open it up and look for the thread- 1935 LaSalle convertible coupe- 3d printed at home. Read it and learn. Your statement is far from true and I'm proving it.

Joseph is right on with his entire post. The wish lists abound on this forum. My wish list has become my to do build list. There's so many things that can be done on a 3d printer. David, you sound like me. I have over 300 models, but my interests are in what's not available. I'm showing the 35 LaSalle build as an information thread and a possible answer to those who want something different. If I can do it, anyone who puts there mind to it can.

Hear are the original prints off the fdm filament printer. The main reason this project is in 1:18 is because these parts couldn't be printed in 1:24 is that there would be no detail, just blobs of melted plastic. Of coarse, as I have shown, it is now possible to do in 1:24 and smaller. These are after some surface prep.

Here are one side of the front suspension pieces. It took about 3 days to do these as I had to make a few minor changes in the drawings for it to be the way I wanted. Also, this resin is very brittle and with small pieces as these they break easily. This caused me to make many replacement parts. That's one of the advantages of 3d printing. Break a part, print a new one. There is a new resin due out any day that claims to be similar in make up to injected plastic. I'll be using that as soon as it is available. These are as they came off the printer. No primer.

Rick, how does your post have anything to so with the theme of this topic? This topic is about the advancement of 3d printing which were covered in both Joseph and Tom's post and nothing about your rant.

Chris. Did you ever think of a trade off system? Imagine people with one part of the equation trading off their skill with some one with the other part. I'm going to divulge something at this point, but i'm not going to name names. When I first posted my prints from this printer at the first of the year, one of our fellow members contacted me about printing one of his files, just to see how well it would print. Well, I guess you know how that turned out by seeing my prints for yourself. The printer is even better today. Yes, there is going to be a market for for 3d file services and printed parts.

Thanks to all for the encouraging words. You are correct, David. I taught myself to use Blender. There are tutorials on You Tube and other forums to show anyone how to set up the background jpegs and even how to make a mesh for a car. Tons of instructions on the Blender website. Blender is open source and is developed by those who use it. If you go to Shape ways website and check the section on preparing a file for 3d printing, you'll see Blender mentioned. It is very 3d printer file friendly. Producing the file is only the first step. Here is an example of learning how to get a good print vs just a print from the high def dlp printer. These are photos of the bell housing and trans. The part on the top side of each photo was printed a few weeks ago and was the original parts from the fdm machine that I joined together in the stl. file and printed out on the dlp machine. The part on the bottom of each photo was printed on the dlp high def machine a few days ago. What made the difference? I added some parts that could be added because they will show up on the dlp print, and I made two changes in the printer setting. I changed the expose time for each slice from 3 seconds to 2 1/2 seconds and extended the length of time between the period the build plate surfaces and the projector flashes from 10.8 seconds to 30 seconds. You can see the difference.

Vince, you are so right - for you. Well said