my66s55

I've been on that hairpin more than once in the early eighties. It was winter, snowing like crazy and at night. There was no guard rail. It was anything but cool.

99% of what I airbrush is acrylic paint spayed with a paasche H. I use Liquitex Airbrush medium and water for thinning and 91% alcohol for cleaning. When I am done painting, I take the needle and tip off the airbrush and soak them in a small glass of the alcohol. After a short while, I clean the needle with a thin tooth pick and rinse it under running water. If I am painting more than one color, I fill a spare paint bottle half full of alcohol and spray it through the airbrush until the spray if clean and then change color. I haven't had to clean the tip while painting.

I've been using these for a couple years now. The silver is much better than the sharpie and I find it works well for interior and dash detail. The silver sharpie is good for exhaust and things of that nature.

I finished 10 64 Plymouth 37 Ford pu 40 Ford sedan delivery 25 T Ford coupe 34 Ford pu 30's Rolls Royce roadster 1929 Mercedes SSK 1950's Austin Healy 100 1941 Chevy coupe 1930 Ford Cabriolet Less than one day to finish 1934 Mercedes 1936 Mercedes - Entex A few days to finish 1965 Dodge Coronet Plus good progress on a scratch built project

Looks real to me.

I have been casting for about 6 + years and after trying some different products, settled on Smooth-On. Dragon skin always gives me a good mold and smoothcast 305 resin a good cast. I have not needed to use any pressure pot as I have never gotten bubbles on any cast. I cast anything from carbs to full size model car bodies bodies. It also helps having a distributor in the area.

So much for Jacksonville or Orlando.

Virg, Check my avatar. I'm even further along than it shows. I foresee a full series of a gm A bodies in the near future. I have taken photos during the process and will do a w.i.p. sometime in the furure. That's a 1935 Lasalle rumble seat coupe.

What is so difficult? I don't understand. Done in a matter of a few minutes with Photobucket.

I think the real trick is to use a tape that is not real sticky and wont leave a a lot of real sticky glue behind and to spray or brush a barrier such as a clear coat of future to give you a sharp edge. Works for me.

Happy birthday Ed. May the gods be with you and you have many more b-day past my age. .

Donn has hit the nail on the head and said exactly what I was going to post. It's the 5 P's that make the grade. Terry, I have a 25 T that has the same shine on it's roof as your model in your post has. It was painted with cheap Apple Barrel gloss black acrylic and finished with Future. The difference in mine and yours is was I didn't expose myself to harmful chemicals that can harm my health or kill me. It was Donn's DVD that made the difference for me.

Nicely done. Stock right down to the color. Just the way I like them.

A very nicely done build. I really enjoy seeing a nice build like this.

I only care about Friday's weather In Daytona as I'll be spending most of the day for my yearly trek to http://www.daytonabeachcarshows.com/ I take lots of pic's.

It is............REAL

You don't mention which model you are working on. Many of the pre wwII bodies are difficult to attach to their chassis. I have found that silicone works well. It's no problem if you need to take it apart latter and easy to clean up any that seeps to the outside of the body.

The 1955 Chevrolet station wagon brochure: http://www.oldcarbro...t/dirindex.html

That is a nice truck. Just the way I like to see them.

All of these except the black Mercedes were sprayed with Liquitex Professional in the tube for $8 and change. Use a 40% coupon and it's in the $5 range for 2oz. of paste. The Merceddes was sprayed with Apple Barrel gloss black that cost $1.19. Only the 40 panel & 65 Dodge have Future on them. The rest are just paint. All paints were bought at Michaels. There are 2 posts.

The closest HL to me is 25 miles ,but there is a Michaels 3 1/2 miles north and another 6 miles south. They also have a good selection of acrylics plus some Testers at better prices than posters here are reporting.

I paint mostly with acrylics and finish with Future. As stated before, make sure that the paint is completely cured. Just because you can handle it doesn't mean it's cured. I put mine in a dehydrator over night to cure it and then let it set for a day before I sand. If you wet sand and do it too soon, the water can wash away the paint. When you do sand, use 4000 grit or higher to remove any imperfections. Be sure to put it in a sealed container after applying Future or it will attract all kind of dust, etc.

I too noticed the absence of an antenna. Also, to me, the wiper blades appear to be lacking. The side view mirror appears to be heavy and not the slim shape of a real one. And lastly, the headrest on the drivers seat seemed too rigid as if it were made of plastic. This is why I voted model.