ZTony8

Not that high of a standard.

Too many favorites-BBS wire mags, Ronal Bears for their pure whimsy, Weld Tri Stars, Minilites ,Volk 37s. It depends on the car and the usage.

Tamiya was a victim of someone doing inaccurate math. Their Ferrari F189 kits are the usual 1/20 scale but the engine/transaxle in those kits scales out to 1/24th scale. At least it makes a good replacement for the less detailed pieces in the 1/24th scale Hasegawa kit of the same car.

The show runs from 9 a.m. until 3 p.m. Eastern time NOT noon until 6 p.m. Also- The next two shows following the March 23rd show will be held at a different location due to construction and renovation at Macomb County Community College. They will be held at the Oakland County Expo Center in Waterford, Michigan. This fall's show will be in October, the 2026 Spring show will be in March. We expect to return to Macomb for the Fall 2026 show unless there are delays in the project at Macomb. Further details will be at our show on March 23rd, 2025.

Trevor-the Heller rally cars are all about the same,feature and parts count wise.They're all curbside models.The quality of the decals varies( the Mitsubishi Evo and Peugeot 307 being the worst, transparent to the point of uselessness if not doubled or replaced with aftermarket product).

I built one of these several years ago straight from the box.Not one of my best builds but then it's a Heller, not a Tamiya kit. It was interesting enough to Scale Auto magazine to photograph it at a show and then use the image on the inside back cover for several issues to encourage readers to subscribe to the magazine. We know how that turned out.

I have not had good luck putting Tamiya color over Duplicolor primer.There may be a basic chemical incompatibility between those items that kills gloss.When I spray Tamiya color I apply two light (mist) coats 10 to 12 inches away about 15 minutes apart then move in to about 8 to 10 inches away and move across the body a bit slower.This helps the gloss. At first it might look like the heavier coats will run by doing this but with practice you'll get a sense of how close and / or slowly you can apply the last coats.

A bit late but last Saturday a few of us in the D.A.A.M. club made a pilgrimage to Akron, OH for the Plastic Undercover show.I bought the new Revell C8 Corvette,a sealed $5 Monogram Target Reynard,some decals and photo etch for the Hasegawa Gulf / Wyer Ford GT,a Fujimi Audi 90,an M&S trans kit for a Porsche 962,Meng BMW Z4 and Audi R8 GT3 kits, a Tamiya Renault 5 Turbo.Later we stopped at a local Ollie's and I scored the Atlantis / Revell Jungle Jim 1/16th scale Funny Car for $15. A fun day all around.

One of our club members recently passed away so, per his wish, his collection was put up for sale first to us fellow club members at VERY fair prices. I bought about 25 kits.

In the instance of the Dino,there isn't much of the EM kit in the curbside version(the RS series). The body is different because of the way the RS chassis is made; the lower nose is separate from the main body in the RS kit where it's part of the body in the EM kit. Otherwise there would be no way to slide the RS one piece chassis in place.This makes for an unsightly and non prototypical parting line where the two pieces join.

Test it on some scrap pieces first.

Neither of these kits is a "starter set''. Just a different kit number and a different color for the car on the box art.

Typically slow Firefox but it is working.

I can see where this would work for one kit at a time but for working on multiple kits at a time further separation would be needed.

Revell Germany has 2 different kit numbers of the BMW i8. One says skill level 3, the other says skill level 4. One has the parts count listed on the box,the other does not have it.There is a $5 price difference in the 2 kits. Anyone know what the content difference is between the 2 kits?

I don't think its the top.I think the doors are too short or the 1/4 panel is too long.

I've seen versions of the Tamiya 934 that sat too high out of the box.You were lucky.

On the rare occasion now that I drive an automatic equipped vehicle I brake with my left foot just to give it something to do.I love my manual trans cars.When I was married to the now ex wife we had an auto trans car(mainly for her usage) but I retained my '84 Z-28 5 speed.She left and I suffered through a '97 Audi A6 wagon until it decided to eat its head gaskets and I got my 2008 HHR stick.

On the rare occasion now that I drive an automatic equipped vehicle I brake with my left foot just to give it something to do.I love my manual trans cars.When I was married to the now ex wife we had an auto trans car(mainly for her usage) but I retained my '84 Z-28 5 speed.She left and I suffered through a '97 Audi A6 wagon until it decided to eat its head gaskets and I got my 2008 HHR stick.

Went to a small toy show today and picked up 3 books,4 magazines,3 new kits and a built up. The kits are a Fujimi Honda Mugen CRZ and a Nissan Skyline 2.5,a Heller Citroen 15CV and the built up is a pristine AMT '60 Chevy convertible that's unpainted.

Any advice on stripping Tamiya purple TS paint from an old '55 Chevy resin body? I painted the thing years ago and it turned out terrible (so the model is unfinished). I'm wary of what alcohol or other strippers might do to the body.

Ugly and uglier?

At the Detroit Autorama I picked up Benneton B195,a Brabham BT52,and an old Revell motorcycle double kit with a Honda and a Harley.

The Chuck Miller Fire Truck engine? A Chevy with a Ford valve cover.

I still have one of each body style, having sold off a couple of duplicates a while ago. Probably should have kept them.