charlie8575

I like bleach also. For best results, use it in a plastic jar with a plastic lid. The chlorine fumes will corrode metal (which is why it strips chrome.) I find parts will strip in anywhere from about 10-15 minutes to an hour, depending on size, number of pieces, etc. Charlie Larkin

You might want to try Simple Green for removing the oil, it's a better degreaser. Charlie Larkin

You know, Jared, the White Lightning looks like it'll look a lot like White Diamond Tri-Coat when it's done. I read on one of the other threads that it needs to be put over white primer, or at the very least, white paint, for it to work. Just a heads-up. Charlie Larkin

Matthew- fixed. Sorry about that. Doug- great choices! I'll really enjoy watching those come along. If you need to, the Modelhaus does have the taillights, wheels and wheelcovers for your Olds. Charlie Larkin

Some of the bargain stores, like Ocean State Job Lot, Big Lots and similar will also get in small electric drink mixers that require to AA batteries. Usually for around $3-5. Those work well from what I've been told. Charlie Larkin

I'm not familiar with the car or movie, but it sounds like an interesting project. A few suggestions: 1. Don't stand so close to the subject while taking pictures. Those were very, very blurry. If, like me, your hand gets a little shaky, you might want to consider using a tripod. Also, try not to zoom in to the subject too much, that can throw focus way off. 2. Get a Photobucket account so you can post more pictures and leave them. You only have so much space for attachments allotted to you here. See the tutorial in Tips, tricks and tutorials for more information. Charlie Larkin

Very nice work on the dash, Mike. Your attention to detail is, as always, excellent. Charlie Larkin

Well, before I can start my A-100...I'll have to find it! I honestly have no idea where it could have gone. I'll still do it, especially as multiples can be done. But for right now, I'm switching to an AMT 1960 Chevy pickup. This will be built as a stock truck, as will the A-100, once I find it. Charlie Larkin

Now that sounds interesting! I might have to give that a try sometime if I ever do a project for which it'd be appropriate. Charlie Larkin

Chuck- the beige on the box car is a pastel. It's actually a rather pretty color; I've seen a couple of cars in it. I think the Model Master Light Ivory with a little brown would actually work well. I have seen some Dupli-Color shades that also come very, very close to it. As well as Plasti-Kote. Charlie Larkin

You're far too kind, Chritian. Just lots of patience and stuff I've collected over the years since I was a little kid. I also always treat myself to something anytime some work comes in. In-between, I try to at least pick up a little paint and such just to keep things moving. Charlie Larkin

Wow- that was classless. When I taught, I always, always tried to find something positive in even the most dismal work. Even if it's "well, you got your name spelled right, let's go from there." People like that should be ejected from shows and banned. Mike- very well done on your part. Donald- don't be afraid to do stuff because of a few rotten apples. As a brother, I ask you to look at things this way: if you let the old, grumpy past masters and other old harrumphs run the lodge and scare off any new brother- your lodge wouldn't last too long. Same thing with a show- don't let some blowhard ruin the show and possibly endanger its future. By showing up, enjoying yourself and standing up to such hoodlums, you defeat them. Charlie Larkin

Welcome aboard, David. Christian- I still use enamels for a lot of things, especially considering they're less expensive and I'm working on a very, very limited budget. I find I like enamels for a lot of things, like detailing, spraying and general use. On to the main topic. There are plenty of good products out there for paints, putties, glues and tools. For paints, I use Testors enamels and lacquers, Humbrol enamels, which can be a bit hard to get Stateside, but is really excellent paint. Enamels airbrush nicely when thinned with non-penetrating lacquer thinner, they also dry a lot faster when thinned with lacquer thinner. To help enamels dry, I like to hit them with a hair dryer on low about a foot back. Too much closer or hotter and you might have a puddle. I also have used Tamyia, Testors Model Master Acryl and Testors lacquers. All have proven very satisfactory when used properly. Primer: I use Plasti-Kote usually, a couple of people have told me to try the Rust-Oleum primer at the auto parts stores. Dupli-Color is usually a little too hot a lot of people have been finding. I also like automotive paints for finishes. Dupli-Color or Plasti-Kote both work well. You can also use the airbrush-mixed paints from MCW or Scale Finishes. I haven't used Scale Finishes, but have used MCW and found them very good products. For paint removal, I used to use Super Clean and its equivalents, but I've found the last bottle...lacking. Right now, I'm using Whestley's Bleche-Wite whitewall cleaner, it's slow, but works well. For removing unwanted plating, I use bleach in small plastic jar with a plastic screw-on lid; this is important because bleach will corrode metal. The leftover clear lacquer undercoat makes a good primer for painting I've found. If you need to remove it for any reason, Super Clean or Bleche-Wite will do the job. Glue- much to the vexation and confusion of many, I still love Testors tube cement for so many things. I like it for big assemblies, and things that I need to fiddle with. I use Testors liquid cement for small assemblies that I want fused quickly and superglue for when I need to glue painted parts together. For clear parts, use canopy cement or Aleen's Tacky Craft glue (or whatever it's called.) Putties: I just have a tube of Squadron at the moment, but Bondo Spot Putty (one-part red product in a tube) has recently come very highly recommended to me. Tools: good tools last longer and are cheaper in the long run. I use Xuron nippers, X-Acto and Excel modeling knives and related accessories and the Tamyia paintstand. Airbrush: I have a Testors Aztek A320, which works well. I'd suggest picking up a compressor too. Testors has an inexpensive starter compressor for about $70. Far from the greatest in the world, but still quite usable for light-duty use. Charlie Larkin

I think I know what color scheme I'm doing mine in, Tim. That Dark Regatta Blue with matching interior looks really, really nice. Charlie Larkin

On a related topic, Tamiya also makes a very pretty pearl blue. Does that need a specific-color undercoat, too? Charlie Larkin

Lacquer thinner usually helps tremendously. I've found Testors paints airbrushed with a little lacquer thinner dry within a couple of hours. Another thing that seems to help is a hair dryer. Just be careful not to set it to "hot" or to put it too close to the parts you're drying. About 5-10 minutes seems to do a pretty good job at kick-starting the catalyst. Charlie Larkin

Very sharp, nice job. Charlie Larkin

Not having seen things up-close enough to really be able to say, what are the differences between the doors on the sedan delivery and El Camino? I thought they were simply Brookwood 2-door wagons altered from the front doors back? Charlie Larkin

I have a couple of these, they're nice kits. One I plan to convert to a 302-powered standard coupe. I just need to find the proper wheels/tires, or something that'll at least pass for such. Charlie Larkin

The color and wheel combination look nice, Ryan. Good work. Charlie Larkin

I've decided I'm going to do a Dodge A-100. Just for something a little different. Charlie Larkin

#2 is better lit. I agree with the consensus. Charlie Larkin

Nice work, Marcos, and that color looks great on it. Charlie Larkin

Those are nice looking wheels, Mike. This will be a nice-looking build all said and done. Charlie Larkin

Like so many modern show cars...simply awful. Charlie Larkin