charlie8575

Except for one full-time job last fall, which ended with the general downturn after just short of two months, I've been existing on part-time and per diem work for three years. And I've had precious little of that since the spring. Of course, because most of my money has been in substitute teaching (always an option, it's better than nothing, but not by much,) I'm considered continuously employed, even if I don't get called, and if I resign, I can't collect because I quit. I'm looking at doing other different things, and have been for quite some time, as much as I'd like to stay in teaching, I don't see it happening now. Charlie Larkin

I have a couple of cars I'd like to try a vinyl top on. This stuff looks like the solution, as I'm not so sure about painting it on or masking tape. Does it come in white by chance? Looks great, I love the concept. Charlie Larkin

I wish I knew right now... I spent most of the last eight years teaching, and the vast bulk of that substituting. There's very little call for business teachers in this day and age of over-standardized, dumbed down (dis)education. I'd still like to teach. Once I finish my grad. work (hopefully another year or so,) I'd like to see about teaching college. Last fall, simply to become employed full-time again, I took a job at a small finance company..with the specialization of loans on antique cars. That only lasted a couple of months until the banking meltdown killed most of our business, and I was let go after two months. Right now...trying to learn QuickBooks and perhaps starting to do a little writing. There's also a small chance I might be able to get some training for H&R Block for income tax prep, which might make a nice extra sideline. It could even become a regular job. Time will tell. If anyone needs any technical writing done for them, or some other service that might be able to be provided electronically, please let me know via e-Mail. Charlie Larkin

I will get there someday..... Charlie Larkin

Fantastic! And I must agree, the photography is very good. This is the Revell kit, I'm guessing? Charlie Larkin

I have one of those...I'll be building mine stock, maybe toss in one of the '63 Dodge Slant Sixes. In the defense of Lindberg, remember that a lot of their molds are ancient, but it's good subject matter; the IMC molds are quite complex, and because of that, might wear a little faster and have more possibilities to create flash as they wear. Their newer kits are very well done and look great, so don't be in too much of a rush to write Lindberg off. Limitations aside, yours came out very nicely. Charlie Larkin

I've used Easy-Off on resin before with no ill effects on it. But even next to an open door in the basement with a 20" box fan pointing outwards, it still stank! I had to vacate the basement for an hour. The paint then came off with a toothbrush. I've also used Whestley's Bleche-White to remove paint from resin. A little slow, but it does work well. I haven't tried Super Clean or its equivalents on resin yet. I'd also consider re-rinsing the part before cleaning. Use a good dish soap (which removes grease,) or Bleche-White to clean it. Charlie Larkin

Although I've not bought anything from Steve, I have from his partner, Jerry Koszut, and he's one of the nicest people I've ever dealt with in the hobby. There was a minor delay in getting a body I ordered, and Jerry expedited the shipping (overnight) and threw in a couple of little extras as a "sorry about that." I spoke with him on the phone a couple of times while getting this straightened out, and I was dealt with very, very fairly, and I've never heard a bad thing about either of these guys, and once I have some money again, will happily buy from them. Sometimes, their suppliers can be a little slow, though, and that can be a problem beyond either of their control. Remember, they don't do the casting, just the distribution. Charlie Larkin

Looks good. I like the direction it's going in. Charlie Larkin

I'd say that color looks pretty good, Nick. Your bodywork is very good, too. This is coming out nicely. Charlie Larkin

To my eye, the AMT has the better body. I actually saw a Prowler downtown a few days ago, and to me, I think the AMT captures the overall form and proportion better. I agree with Bill...use the Revell wheels if you can get them to fit the AMT mounts (this can be an issue sometimes.) I also like the suggestion for a side-by-side (nobody ever did one that I remember,) and perhaps two alternate builds. To that end, Brian is absolutely spot-on. Charlie Larkin

Based on what I remember reading somewhere, the chassis is a pretty good starting point for a resin project. I'd get an R&R '63-'66 Dodge/Plymouth downsized full-size or B-body and use the chassis as a start for that. Charlie Larkin

As a Mason, I take considerable umbrage with the New World Order nonsense. Contrary to what you and a lot of other people seem to think, Masonry, nor any other fraternal order, are out to take over the world. Why have there been so many men of note in our Fraternity? Its principles attract those who wish to aim higher. I've gotten very tired of listening to people or reading all kinds of falsehoods about our fraternity. To learn more, please click here Grand Lodge of Masons in Massachusetts 10 Questions about Masonry Answered. Charlie Larkin (P.S.: The AFAM in my picture is "Ancient Free & Accepted Masons," the IOOF is for the Independent Order of Odd Fellows.)

I know the '58 Chevy was re-released. I'm not sure about the other kits, though. Charlie Larkin

I didn't know they were making it in spray bottles now? Duly noted. I stopped using it because of the stink and toxicity. Good to know. Charlie Larkin

Easy-Off is at almost any store; grocery, hardware, Wal-Mart. Or a generic equivalent. A word to the wise: use it in a VERY WELL VENTILATED area and use gloves of some kind. Easy-Off will work on almost anything, so it's definitely worth a shot. Charlie Larkin

Personally, I'm not a big Porsche or sports car fan, but I think the Boxster is one of the prettiest cars on the road. Put it this way, money allowing, I'd seriously consider buying one. That looks really nice, and I have to agree, the undercarriage detailing is very good. Charlie Larkin

I've heard of people using Future as a sealant before, and after seeing this demonstration, I can see it does work quite well. I've got some Tamyia white primer in a little square bottle (sort of like the old Testors cement bottles,) and when brushing it on, I'm not thrilled with the coverage (very thin,) but it does actually seem to prime decently. I might try the spray stuff next time I have a few bucks and see how it goes. Charlie Larkin

So I've found out. It is a little dark, but it did end up covering all right. I might still strip and respray with white primer, then airbrush on the paint and see how it works. Charlie Larkin

Very good. You could even do one with a background, like a garage or something, for a different effect. Great idea! Charlie Larkin

I have a small number of 1960s-vintage kits I'd like to start building. My concern is painting plastic that old. I'd like to use MCW paints on them, but I'm not sure if they'd be too strong for the plastic. I'm not even sure if something like Testors paints is a little too much. Has anyone attempted painting kits from this era with these products now, and what have the results been? Charlie Larkin

FANTASTIC! I love it! Two questions. 1. What scale? 2. What were the issues with the instructions? Charlie Larkin

Nailheads can also be found in the 1963-65 Rivieras and all of the 1966 and earlier full-sized Buicks with engines. The one in the 1962 Electra is simplified, hole in the block and all, but when detail-painted and installed in a closed body, looks pretty good. Charlie Larkin

Dave, you're right on many points. For value, the domestic, and many European manufacturers are unbeatable. Value, if defined by the amount of detail and parts count, we win no questions asked. Nobody is perfect, nor was I trying to imply it. Sure, everyone makes their errors. If we didn't, we wouldn't be human. The difference is that, even though the Japanese manufacturers might not have as high a parts content, what's in the box is generally better-produced; that's the difference I was alluding to. I will grant, and perhaps I should have made clearer, that Revell does have pretty good QC, but I have noticed that a lot of the American and European manufacturers are less consistent in their quality than their Asian counterparts. I haven't purchased a post-buyout AMT kit, so I can't say on theirs, although most of the reviews I've read have been very positive. It's much like the American 1:1 car companies, where the products were (and are) perfectly good cars, but the quality has been inconsistent, causing customer dissatisfaction and the results we now see with the whole GM/Chrysler/Ford meltdown. That was the whole point I was driving at. Dollar-for-dollar, we beat the Japanese content-wise, they beat us quality-control wise. It's a strange paradox. Usually these two things go together, but not always. Perhaps someday, the answer will be found. Charlie Larkin

I have one of those kits, and it's on my "I want to start it within the next year" list. It does build up nicely. Charlie Larkin