Force

The White-Freightliner kits has larger wheels and tires, and I think the Diamond Reo has the same, they are Uniroyal 11.00-22 and are quite a bit larger than the Good Year and Firestone 10.00-20 and 11.00-20 from most of the other AMT and Ertl kits.

Yes, the Aerodyne top fits on the flat top Revell AG K-100 as it's also a 108 inch cab...but both are kind of hard to find for decent money right now as it was sometime since they were out last.

I use all the links I listed as they are useful for most forums and Instant Messaging. Especially the Direct link wich I use here and together with the < img src =........> code on the Spotlight Hobbies Message Board. And I use the "Img code" links on most other forums.

The AMT KW K-123 has a Hendrickson Walking Beam suspension, same as the AMT KW W-925 (wich in fact is a 923, a 925 had torsion bar suspension and the AMT W-925 kit had that in the beginning but was later changed to a Walking Beam). ​Otherwise the scale is the same but the cab for the K-123 is a bit shorter than the K-100 Aerodyne cabs, most of the K-100 Aerodyne cabs were built on the V.I.T. cab and are equivalent to 108 inches on a real truck and the K-123 cab is equivalent to 86 inches...so the AMT K-123 cab is 22 scale inches shorter than the AMT and Revell K-100 Aerodyne...and that'll be around 22 millimeters in 1:25 scale (about 7/8").

I ordered some stuff from him 4 years ago and got...exactly nothing for my $62.00...lesson learned the hard way.

Since PB did the last major upgrade of the site quite some time ago you have to do some settings at your account for it to work like it did before. So you probably don't have the box for "Turn on easy linking mode" checked in your settings for your account, on the page before this I gave a description on how you to fix it and what links you need to show. But I'll take it again: "Log on to your PB account, click on your user name and choose "user settings", click on "Albums" on the next page. Under "Links" on the "Album" page check the squares for "Email & IM", "Direct link", "HTML code" and "IMG code" Go down to "Easy Linking Mode" on the same page and check the square to "Turn On Easy Linking Mode" And finally click on save at the bottom. Now the links will appear under the thumbnails in your albums as they did before and that's how I have my settings at my Photobucket account."

I use both IE 11 and Google Chrome and both works. But I had to go and redo the settings my PB account after they did the last big upgrade about a year ago to get it to work as it did before...and after that it has worked fine.

I thought the sleepers in the Diamond REO and White Road Boss were Mercury sleeper boxes, and they are shorter than 60 inches...more like 36 or something like that. But AITM has a 60 inch Mercury sleeper if you want a larger one.

I don't have any problems at all, I use Photobucket for almost every picture I post and it works for me. It can be some settings either on your own computer or on your Photobucket account thats not working or aren't correctly set. Have you tried to click on the direct link so it gets marked (mine gets blue), then hold down the Ctrl button and c at the same time to copy the link, go over here and klick on the img icon and klick in the url box so the cursor appears and hold down the Ctrl button and v to paste the link in the box and click ok. By the way, have you done any setups under your Personal Settings at Photobucket lately? If not, click on your user name, click on "Albums" and under "Links" check the squares for "Email & IM", "Direct link", "HTML code" and "IMG code", go down to "Easy Linking Mode" and check the square to "Turn On Easy Linking Mode" and click on save. Now the links will appear under the thumbnails in your albums as they did before and that's how I have my settings at my Photobucket account. I just going to try myself to see if it works. Test passed.

Photobucket changed that quite some time ago. Choose the direct link line and mark the complete url, right click and copy, go here click on the img icon and paste in the url in the box.

You're welcome.

I knew I had seen this setup somewhere, it's from the 1970 Chevrolet Chevelle SS 454, so your friends were off by a couple of years. Images are from the Drastic Plastic Fotki site.

Here is one picture I found of a Metro 50 ton sliding rotator when I did a quick google search. It looks like the crane base slides on beams/rails and there must be horizontal hydraulic ram/rams operating the slide. Here is a forum about towtrucks with lots of pictures, have a look around and you might be helped more. http://tow411.yuku.com/directory#.UyUGm_l5Npv

The time for the race isn't much to do about as it's in Australia, but the rerun could be at a better time. It's not that bad for us, the race is at 6:30 am and the channel they show it on over here reruns the entire race at 2:00 pm and 9:30 pm.

It's not just the valve cover gasket seating rail that's missing on the FE heads, the pushrods also goes through holes in the intake manifold and the gasket seating rail is behind that on a FE, that and the fact that the intake ports on most Ford engines are evenly spaced...as are the exhaust ports...so the kit setup is pure fantasy as it isn't possible on a real FE engine.

Yes I suspected that. Those wheels are very nice, the Fujimi wheels and tires looks a bit too shallow for the 68-69 Gulf cars as you say.

Yes, the AMT 68-69 Plymouth Road Runner/GTX - 70 Dodge Coronet are probably the best B-body chassis out there and will fit the Jo-Han body quite well.

I think the small window-Detroit Diesel version of the California Hauler had kit # T-500 and came with two boxarts. This one wich is the one I have... and this The version after that with new cab and Cummins engine wich replaced the small window kit had kit #T-501 and had the boxart the truck you're building has, and that's the 359 still with us today. Here is the #T-522 wrecker version of the small window-Detroit Diesel kit and that was also replaced with the later cab and Cummins engine kit. One thing to be sure if you have the small window cab or the later cab is if there is a small oval window on the passenger door, the later version doesn't have that but the small window kit does.

Didn't I just say that? I agree on the Fujimi kits, they are the best injection molded kits out there shape wise, Fujimi has done several versions of the Mk I with different front hood, rear deck and wheels to do the cars from different years. The Mk II from Fujimi and the reboxed Revell kit are all the same except for decals to do different versions. Ford used the Prototype GT 1964. The Mk I was used 1965, 66, 68 and 69 at Le Mans and several other races, The Mk II were used 1966 and 67 at Le Mans, and were used at other races as Daytona, Sebring and others. The Mk IV were used 1967 at Le Mans (4 cars, the other 8 Ford cars entered at Le Mans that year were Mk II's and Mirage's) and model kits of the Mk IV are done by IMC/Testors and MPC.

I was also surprised, even a 358 (5.86 litre) NASCAR V8 at 9.200 rpm sounds like it revs more, so I expected a higher pitch sound from the small 1.6 litre V6 at 15.000 rpm.

Yes it's cool, and I also have the early small window wrecker version. What Tim doesn't know about Peterbilt's aren't worth knowing. Who knows...maybe when I get rid of the severe case of builders block I got right now.

Paddy Wagon is an abbreviation of Patrol Wagon and was a common name for a Police vehicle, mostly vans...so it can be almost anything and any make.

Ahh...the good old days. It will be interesting to see if they get a hold of the "new rule package" and how many of them who will finish the race on Sunday.

Ahh I see what you mean...well I would do that too. I just bought me the first version of the AMT California Hauler 359 with a Detroit Diesel 8V-71 for a decent price, the later 359 versions has a Cummins NTC.

Harolds resin engine/suspension kit is for the Fujimi GT40 Mk I kit (I don't think Revell has issued the Fujimi Mk I kit) and I have a couple of those...very nice kits with a small block Ford with Gourney/Weslake heads and four Webers, and almost all you need to detail the Mk I under the hood. He had a kit for the Fujimi/Revell GT40 Mk II with a FE 427 in the works when I talked to him over the phone some years ago but I haven't seen anything of it yet...but if he gets it out it's a sure buy as he does quality parts. To straighten things out a bit regarding the Ford GT and GT40 cars. The first 12 was prototypes, was built 1964 in England and was called Ford GT at first, they predecessed the first production cars Ford GT40 Mk I from 1965, the engines in those were small block Ford 260-289 with four Webers, and a four cam injected 255 Indy engine in some cars, 3 of the first 12 prototypes were equipped with 427 engines tho' and was testbeds for the later Mk II's. 1966 came the reworked and modified GT40 Mk II with the larger 427 motor with a single 4bbl carburator, this car gave Ford their first Le Mans victory and Ford finished 1-2-3, and Mk II was also built in England. The GT40 Mk III was a street legal car, only 7 built in 1967, the engine was a detuned 289. 1967 came the Mk IV wich was built in America and was based on the J-car prototype, it had a 427 with dual 4bbl and the Mk IV gave Ford the second victory at Le Mans that year. They changed the rules for 1968 and put in a maximum 5 litre rule, so the Gulf Team dusted off the old GT40 Mk I, modified it a bit and put in Gourney/Weslake head 302's with four Webers and gave Ford their fourth and fifth victories at Le Mans 68 and 69.