Force

You're welcome.

Scalemates is a good idea and a decent source for information but it's not correct all the time. The timelines for kits has lots to desire as they can be very wrong sometimes because some kits that should be there aren't and some kits that shouldn't are, if you have a decent knowledge of the history of the kits yourself you see incorrect things here and there. I even tried to get a timeline corrected once. It was for the Revell Germany Kenworth W900/T900 kits wich have three different timelines there, one for the 1:25th scale marked kits, one for the T900 and one for kits marked 1:24th scale, but all of them should be on the same timeline as all are based on the same tooling with some added stuff and regardless what the box says all are 1:25th scale as Revell didn't do two different scales so close to eachother of the same subject, but nothing ever happened so I gave up.

I have dealt with Jack at Model Roundup several times the last years and he is a great guy to deal with and comes through every time. I usually send him an email with what I want and he takes care of me, no problem.

Bo Zolland lives here in my home town and I have met the guy a couple of times. His work is great.

I'm in on that, back in the day when Pro Stockers were based on and still looked like real cars. Nice work so far.

Not many kits have good carburetors as most are undetailed blobs that's supposed to be carburetors and that's fine as most of them are hidden under an air cleaner. But the best detailed carburetors I have seen in kits are the ones in the 1960 Ford Galaxie Starliner, the 1962 Ford Thunderbird, the 1971 Plymouth Duster and most of the latest developed AMT kits from the very late 1990's and early 2000's, most of them are nicely detailed even with venturi detail. The carbs in the Revell 69 Camaro's are quite nice but lacks venturi detail so it's no good if you are doing models with exposed carbs, otherwise they are good, and several Moebius kits also has decent carbs. Many use the Holley 4500 Dominators from the Revell/Monogram Pro Stock kits on race car models, but in my book they are awful representations of a Holley Dominator and the person who created the tool for them must never have seen a real Holley 4500 Dominator because the ones in the kits doesn't look like one wich you know if you ever been around one. The best looking Holley 4500 Dominator in model kits are the ones Jo-Han did for the 1971 Barracuda and 1971 Ford Maverick, the Dominators in the Revell Pro Sportsman kits are also decent...maybe slightly underscaled because the 4500 Dominators are big. So it depends on what you are going to use them for, for models with exposed carbs I prefer to use aftermarket carbs like the ones from Fireball Modelworks or Futuratraction as they are among the best out there.

New working link for Futurattraction https://www.futurattraction.com/

Looks like a Eaton/Fuller, maybe a 13 speed.

The cross over pipe is only used with single exhaust so with dual exhaust it's not needed. But the engines in this kit are quite simplified and the exhaust manifolds are casted to the block sides instead of being separate parts and the cross over pipe that should have been there for the stock version was never in the kit. The 1950 Convertible is even worse, similar simplified engine, no cross over pipe and the single exhaust system is casted into the chassis.

I got one of my "holy grails" today as these cars are among my favourites. Not really a model kit but assembly is required, this body kit is meant for slot car racing but I'm not doing that, it's going to be a static display shelf model when I come around to it. It's a nice limited edition resin kit by Fein-Design-Modell from Germany, but as it's for slot car racing it needs a chassis and some other stuff but it will look nice when it's done. Lola T70 Mk. III B, Chassis SL76/141. Driven at the 12 hours of Sebring 1969 by Ulf Norinder and Joakim "Jo" Bonnier, it's fun because on most websites it says the drivers were from Switzerland...totally wrong...both of them were Swedish but unfortunately none of them are with us today, the car is still around tho' and are raced at nostalgia events.

Nice work Ken

Just the torsion bar and walking beam for AMT K123, W925, torsion bar single drive for the Tyrone Malone racing trucks, the later AG 100 air ride in the AMT K100 Aerodyne and the Revell Germany K100 and W900 kits

I believe the silver trucks are from 1974 and here they are in a Overdrive Magazine article from August 1974 when the VIT sleeper was introduced.

Nice. I just learned the Movin' On paint scheme was called either "Apache" or "Yosemite" depending on year and model...most likely Yosemite.

The hinge itself is not that hard to do and they had supports to hold the hood open. They either had a J shaped hinge under the hood or mostly just a couple of plates sticking up over the rearmost parts of the hood with a bolt through them. The hold up support is a sissor like bracket that folds in the middle. Here is the hinge itself, the triangular plates are sticking up above the O in the Unocal 76 sticker, one on the fender and one on the back of the hood and a bolt through. Here is the hold up brackets, a couple of different styles. On later Cup cars they also have two pieces of rope from the chassis to the hood to keep the hood from flying off in a crash.

The AMT W925 has dual drive walking beam and the kit was designated correct when it first came out as it had torsion bar suspension, but is wrong after AMT changed the suspension to walking beam. The AMT K123 also has the same dual drive walking beam as the W925 and the kit was originally designated wrong as it also had torsion bar suspension when it first came out, but is right now with the walking beam. The chassis designations for older Kenworth's are: K121/W921 = single drive spring, KW torsion bar or air ride K122/W922 = single drive KW monkey motion, Page & Page or other suspension with single drive and tag or pusher axle K123/W923 = lighter capacity dual drive Hendrickson spring or rubber block walking beam, 4 spring, center pivot spring and KW air ride K124/W924 = larger capacity dual drive Timken center pivot spring or KW 6 rod and Hendrickson larger capacity rubber block K125/W925 = lighter capacity dual drive KW torsion bar suspension But Kenworth did away with the chassis designation numbers in the late 70's and after that it's only K100 or W900 regardless of suspension type.

It turned out nice. I've got one Fujimi and one Union 917K and I believe the Union kit is a reboxed Heller kit.

The Italeri Freightliner FLD 120 kit has a larger sleeper, it's not integral but larger. The rest of the kit is a more aero style truck than the one above but you could maybe use the hood from the FLC and do a FLD Classic...I don't know if that works tho'.

A model kit is worth exactly what buyers are willing to pay. So it's a case of supply and demand, if the demand is higher than the supply the price go up and if someone pays 1000 bucks it's worth 1000 bucks to them.

Last I saw was the Boyds Smoothster issued by Lindberg in 2007 and called 1937 Custom Ford Convertible, they also issued the Vantastic as 1938 Custom Ford Van, so if Lindberg had the tooling for them it would be at Round 2 now. The old Jo-Han tooling is missing from action since Testors did their last run with them, either Testors got left over kit stock from X-El/Seville/Jo-Han or had someone else doing the molding because I don't believe Testors ever did any modling themselves, and they issued kits originally from many other model manufacturers like IMC, Italeri etc, The Jo-Han kits they did was the 1971 Barracuda, the 1969 Rambler Hurst S/C, the 1970 Oldsmobile 442, the 1969 AMX and the 1971 Mercury Comet, and as I said, the tooling for these are missing since then and nobody seems to know where they are.

I have noticed this too when I studied the TV series for details, they often take off the mud flaps when they are pulling a trailer, not allways but often, and they are hanged behind the fuel tanks as in your picture wich are one of the season 1 trucks. They are also often taken off in season 2 but I don't know where they stowed them then, it was a while ago since I watched that season but I don't remember seeing any mudflaps behind the fuel tanks like in season 1, so they must have stowed them elsewhere and it doesn't look like there are any brackets there on the frame either. These pictures are from season 2. The brackets for the mud flap hangers are just a piece of square tubing welded to a flat piece bolted to the frame rail and the mud flap hangers are made from square stock and the ends are angeled downwards, easy to take off.

Nice work Ken But this truck is technically a W923 as it has walking beam suspension, the 925/125 designation was for the dual drive torsion bar suspension...so AMT had it right from the very beginning when this kit was eveloped and had torison bars, but is wrong since the suspension was changed. It's the other way around for the K123 kit, it was originally wrong as it also had tosion bars but the number is right since they changed to walking beam.

When you say BMF it's to a modeler it's the self adhesive metal foil we mean, not decal paper or any other of the products Bare Metal Foil has. The setting solutions sold by Bare Metal Foil Co are Micro Scale Industries Inc's products as BMF does not have any of their own.

Yes but when you say you used BMF on a model in our World it's the foil we mean, not the decal paper or any other products.

You have to ask AMT/Round2 because I don't know. I'm just telling why there are some custom parts in these kits and it's the same regardless of wich issue it is, I have the first from 2000 and the custom version from 2011, the tail light sprue is the same for both versions. If you look closely you can tell from the drawing in the instructions wich tail light lenses you are supposed to use, the drawing for the lenses in the stock version has a flat center, the drawing for the custom version shows both the flat lenses and the bullet lenses and they are optional and you can use wich one you like. But I agree with you, it could have been more clear, the instructions for the stock version it should be only the #400 as they are the only ones shown, the #401 is the custom lenses not shown in that drawing...so there was a misstake from the artist who did the instructions.