Force

It takes 50-55 KWh to produce 1 kilogram of hydrogen from water with electrolysis wich is the only environmentally safe process, and you will get 33 KWh energy back from that kilogram of hydrogen when you use it, so the efficiency is about 60-70% or even less, but you only get water vapour after you use it as it goes back to water. I don't know the number if you burn the hydrogen gas in a combustion engine but I would think it's even lower. Most of the hydrogen we use today is made from natural gas with steam methane reforming and you get carbon dioxide as a bi-product, and that's what we want to avoid, therefore the electrolysis process is a lot better as you don't get any carbon dioxide out of the process, and that's if the electricity is made fossil free of course, not from oil, coal or anything else that produces CO2 when burned. So in conclution, we need a more energy efficient way to produce hydrogen if this would work in large scale and there are a lot of other obstacles to get over like containing and transporting the hydrogen gas safely.

No SA is defunct, so the only other magazine is FSM where they have some automotive stuff nowadays, not much but some.

I'm happy to be of assistance. You are doing a great job on this one.

Nice work so far. As for the color, I don't know if they changed it from season 1 to season 2, I have no records of that, just the Ivy Bronze name for season 1 and it's a Ford color from 1971-1973. The thing is that the same color with the same paint code and recipe also were called Ivy Glow in 1972 and 1973 depending on what car it was on, and in 1974 there was a Ivy Glow but with a different paint code and recipe so it's a different color shade from the earlier paint But the arrow stripes on the sleeper was indeed changed and looks slightly different on the season 2 trucks. Season 1 1974. Season 2 1975.

I'm still waiting on issue #217 and all issues after that including #220. I don't know what's going on but I subscribe to 3 magazines from the US and haven't got any of them the last year and a half and if I do it's very sporadic. A couple of my friends have even recieved their missing issues of Rodders Journal a couple of weeks ago but no trace of mine so far and I don't know if I ever will get them, and the other magazines I subscribe to is this one and Fine Scale Modeler...I have a valid subscription on all of them but I don't get any of them for some reason so I'm starting to get frustrated over this. So I'm with you, the postal service will kill what's left of the printed magazine industry...at least for subscribers as I see no reason to subscribe if I don't get my magazines, digital...not for me.

It depends on how accurate you want it to be. Only 6 Daytona Coupe's were built in 1964-1965, Chassis number: CSX2286 / CSX2287 / CSX2299 / CSX2300 / CSX2601 / CSX2602 and they were built on small block Cobra chassis. The 427 Cobra has a different suspension setup with coilovers instead of the transverse leafs the small block Cobras had, and the Daytona Coupe has the transverse leafs and the chassis is slightly different. A guy in the town I live in built a replica some years ago and he built it on a 427 style chassis with coil overs so it will for sure work.

The Daytona Coupe was built on the 260-289 AC Cobra chassis, not the 427. So you could use the AMT or Revell small block Cobra chassis.

You're welcome.

Scalemates is a good idea and a decent source for information but it's not correct all the time. The timelines for kits has lots to desire as they can be very wrong sometimes because some kits that should be there aren't and some kits that shouldn't are, if you have a decent knowledge of the history of the kits yourself you see incorrect things here and there. I even tried to get a timeline corrected once. It was for the Revell Germany Kenworth W900/T900 kits wich have three different timelines there, one for the 1:25th scale marked kits, one for the T900 and one for kits marked 1:24th scale, but all of them should be on the same timeline as all are based on the same tooling with some added stuff and regardless what the box says all are 1:25th scale as Revell didn't do two different scales so close to eachother of the same subject, but nothing ever happened so I gave up.

I have dealt with Jack at Model Roundup several times the last years and he is a great guy to deal with and comes through every time. I usually send him an email with what I want and he takes care of me, no problem.

Bo Zolland lives here in my home town and I have met the guy a couple of times. His work is great.

I'm in on that, back in the day when Pro Stockers were based on and still looked like real cars. Nice work so far.

Not many kits have good carburetors as most are undetailed blobs that's supposed to be carburetors and that's fine as most of them are hidden under an air cleaner. But the best detailed carburetors I have seen in kits are the ones in the 1960 Ford Galaxie Starliner, the 1962 Ford Thunderbird, the 1971 Plymouth Duster and most of the latest developed AMT kits from the very late 1990's and early 2000's, most of them are nicely detailed even with venturi detail. The carbs in the Revell 69 Camaro's are quite nice but lacks venturi detail so it's no good if you are doing models with exposed carbs, otherwise they are good, and several Moebius kits also has decent carbs. Many use the Holley 4500 Dominators from the Revell/Monogram Pro Stock kits on race car models, but in my book they are awful representations of a Holley Dominator and the person who created the tool for them must never have seen a real Holley 4500 Dominator because the ones in the kits doesn't look like one wich you know if you ever been around one. The best looking Holley 4500 Dominator in model kits are the ones Jo-Han did for the 1971 Barracuda and 1971 Ford Maverick, the Dominators in the Revell Pro Sportsman kits are also decent...maybe slightly underscaled because the 4500 Dominators are big. So it depends on what you are going to use them for, for models with exposed carbs I prefer to use aftermarket carbs like the ones from Fireball Modelworks or Futuratraction as they are among the best out there.

New working link for Futurattraction https://www.futurattraction.com/

Looks like a Eaton/Fuller, maybe a 13 speed.

The cross over pipe is only used with single exhaust so with dual exhaust it's not needed. But the engines in this kit are quite simplified and the exhaust manifolds are casted to the block sides instead of being separate parts and the cross over pipe that should have been there for the stock version was never in the kit. The 1950 Convertible is even worse, similar simplified engine, no cross over pipe and the single exhaust system is casted into the chassis.

I got one of my "holy grails" today as these cars are among my favourites. Not really a model kit but assembly is required, this body kit is meant for slot car racing but I'm not doing that, it's going to be a static display shelf model when I come around to it. It's a nice limited edition resin kit by Fein-Design-Modell from Germany, but as it's for slot car racing it needs a chassis and some other stuff but it will look nice when it's done. Lola T70 Mk. III B, Chassis SL76/141. Driven at the 12 hours of Sebring 1969 by Ulf Norinder and Joakim "Jo" Bonnier, it's fun because on most websites it says the drivers were from Switzerland...totally wrong...both of them were Swedish but unfortunately none of them are with us today, the car is still around tho' and are raced at nostalgia events.

Nice work Ken

Just the torsion bar and walking beam for AMT K123, W925, torsion bar single drive for the Tyrone Malone racing trucks, the later AG 100 air ride in the AMT K100 Aerodyne and the Revell Germany K100 and W900 kits

I believe the silver trucks are from 1974 and here they are in a Overdrive Magazine article from August 1974 when the VIT sleeper was introduced.

Nice. I just learned the Movin' On paint scheme was called either "Apache" or "Yosemite" depending on year and model...most likely Yosemite.

The hinge itself is not that hard to do and they had supports to hold the hood open. They either had a J shaped hinge under the hood or mostly just a couple of plates sticking up over the rearmost parts of the hood with a bolt through them. The hold up support is a sissor like bracket that folds in the middle. Here is the hinge itself, the triangular plates are sticking up above the O in the Unocal 76 sticker, one on the fender and one on the back of the hood and a bolt through. Here is the hold up brackets, a couple of different styles. On later Cup cars they also have two pieces of rope from the chassis to the hood to keep the hood from flying off in a crash.

The AMT W925 has dual drive walking beam and the kit was designated correct when it first came out as it had torsion bar suspension, but is wrong after AMT changed the suspension to walking beam. The AMT K123 also has the same dual drive walking beam as the W925 and the kit was originally designated wrong as it also had torsion bar suspension when it first came out, but is right now with the walking beam. The chassis designations for older Kenworth's are: K121/W921 = single drive spring, KW torsion bar or air ride K122/W922 = single drive KW monkey motion, Page & Page or other suspension with single drive and tag or pusher axle K123/W923 = lighter capacity dual drive Hendrickson spring or rubber block walking beam, 4 spring, center pivot spring and KW air ride K124/W924 = larger capacity dual drive Timken center pivot spring or KW 6 rod and Hendrickson larger capacity rubber block K125/W925 = lighter capacity dual drive KW torsion bar suspension But Kenworth did away with the chassis designation numbers in the late 70's and after that it's only K100 or W900 regardless of suspension type.

It turned out nice. I've got one Fujimi and one Union 917K and I believe the Union kit is a reboxed Heller kit.

The Italeri Freightliner FLD 120 kit has a larger sleeper, it's not integral but larger. The rest of the kit is a more aero style truck than the one above but you could maybe use the hood from the FLC and do a FLD Classic...I don't know if that works tho'.