Force

Very nice.

I agree with you, This is the look they had from the factory and it's iconic and tough and the W900 VIT was top of the line from Kenworth, nothing like that have ever come out of a factory here in Europe, Australia is probably the country were the trucks looks something like the US trucks do but of course many of the trucks made there are US brands like Kenworth, Mack, Western Star etc. We had lots of conventionals before in Europe and they were popular, they didn't come close to what was made in the US tho', but length regulations in most countries had them evolve in a different way than the US trucks did and finally killed them off and no conventionals are made anymore as the demand is too low, Much like the cabovers in the US, none are made today since the demand is too low because it's the length of the trailer that's regulated and the length of the tractor is not counted in since some years, and the conventional has a better ride with a longer wheelbase and has other things in their favour over cabovers, with that said, I think the US made cabovers had a tougher look than the European cabovers did and do. So all trucks made in Europe today are cabovers and in many European countries the tractors are short two axle single drive wich I don't really like, they have strange proportions as most of the mass are at the front, no length to the chassis and just a single axle at the back and they look like they are going to tip over if you touch the brake. European truckers looked over to US trucks and were influenced by them for a while back in the 80's, so chrome or stainless stacks and aluminum wheels are often mounted on custom trucks here but they have evolved to something else and doesn't look anything like custom trucks do in the US, the European custom trucks have their own look. But I like the old school US trucks a lot better than the European trucks and all my truck kits are of US trucks. Well back to the regular show.

If you have another kit you can take a foil copy of the White Freightliner emblem, sand the one on this kit off and replace it with the copied emblem. It's not hard to do, put a piece of regular kitchen aluminum foil over the emblem, burnish it down with cotton tip swab and a rubber from a pencil, turn the copied emblem around and fill the voids with epoxy or another glue that hardens, sand the backside and trim the edges and you have your emblem. It may take a few tries but it's not that hard.

Here too.

Nice work I just wish someone would do correct decals for it.

I might complain but it is what it is and I will not buy kits in a scale I don't have anything else in. Sorry Salvinos JR, but 1:20 is not for me.

The fuel injection from the 1962 is wrong for 1963, they are different. 1962 1963

Well most of the earlier indycar models made by AMT, Monogram and Revell were 1:24th and 1:25th scale except for the few Tamiya Indycar kits wich were 1:20, and no one rejected them, they may not have been good sellers but they did them for some years anyway. So I can't see any reason to make these in 1:20 and I for one woun't buy them as they doesn't go with anything else I have...sorry Salvinos JR, if you had done them in 1:24-1:25 it would have been another thing and I would have bought them.

1:20th scale...sorry, not for me...and I do live outside the US, that scale doesn't do it for me as it doesn't go with anything else I have, I only do 1;24th and 1:25th scale. Almost all other Indycar kits done so far except from Tamiya has been 1:24th or 1:25th scale and even Revell Germany did their F1 kits in 1:24th scale.

It takes 50-55 KWh to produce 1 kilogram of hydrogen from water with electrolysis wich is the only environmentally safe process, and you will get 33 KWh energy back from that kilogram of hydrogen when you use it, so the efficiency is about 60-70% or even less, but you only get water vapour after you use it as it goes back to water. I don't know the number if you burn the hydrogen gas in a combustion engine but I would think it's even lower. Most of the hydrogen we use today is made from natural gas with steam methane reforming and you get carbon dioxide as a bi-product, and that's what we want to avoid, therefore the electrolysis process is a lot better as you don't get any carbon dioxide out of the process, and that's if the electricity is made fossil free of course, not from oil, coal or anything else that produces CO2 when burned. So in conclution, we need a more energy efficient way to produce hydrogen if this would work in large scale and there are a lot of other obstacles to get over like containing and transporting the hydrogen gas safely.

No SA is defunct, so the only other magazine is FSM where they have some automotive stuff nowadays, not much but some.

I'm happy to be of assistance. You are doing a great job on this one.

Nice work so far. As for the color, I don't know if they changed it from season 1 to season 2, I have no records of that, just the Ivy Bronze name for season 1 and it's a Ford color from 1971-1973. The thing is that the same color with the same paint code and recipe also were called Ivy Glow in 1972 and 1973 depending on what car it was on, and in 1974 there was a Ivy Glow but with a different paint code and recipe so it's a different color shade from the earlier paint But the arrow stripes on the sleeper was indeed changed and looks slightly different on the season 2 trucks. Season 1 1974. Season 2 1975.

I'm still waiting on issue #217 and all issues after that including #220. I don't know what's going on but I subscribe to 3 magazines from the US and haven't got any of them the last year and a half and if I do it's very sporadic. A couple of my friends have even recieved their missing issues of Rodders Journal a couple of weeks ago but no trace of mine so far and I don't know if I ever will get them, and the other magazines I subscribe to is this one and Fine Scale Modeler...I have a valid subscription on all of them but I don't get any of them for some reason so I'm starting to get frustrated over this. So I'm with you, the postal service will kill what's left of the printed magazine industry...at least for subscribers as I see no reason to subscribe if I don't get my magazines, digital...not for me.

It depends on how accurate you want it to be. Only 6 Daytona Coupe's were built in 1964-1965, Chassis number: CSX2286 / CSX2287 / CSX2299 / CSX2300 / CSX2601 / CSX2602 and they were built on small block Cobra chassis. The 427 Cobra has a different suspension setup with coilovers instead of the transverse leafs the small block Cobras had, and the Daytona Coupe has the transverse leafs and the chassis is slightly different. A guy in the town I live in built a replica some years ago and he built it on a 427 style chassis with coil overs so it will for sure work.

The Daytona Coupe was built on the 260-289 AC Cobra chassis, not the 427. So you could use the AMT or Revell small block Cobra chassis.

You're welcome.

Scalemates is a good idea and a decent source for information but it's not correct all the time. The timelines for kits has lots to desire as they can be very wrong sometimes because some kits that should be there aren't and some kits that shouldn't are, if you have a decent knowledge of the history of the kits yourself you see incorrect things here and there. I even tried to get a timeline corrected once. It was for the Revell Germany Kenworth W900/T900 kits wich have three different timelines there, one for the 1:25th scale marked kits, one for the T900 and one for kits marked 1:24th scale, but all of them should be on the same timeline as all are based on the same tooling with some added stuff and regardless what the box says all are 1:25th scale as Revell didn't do two different scales so close to eachother of the same subject, but nothing ever happened so I gave up.

I have dealt with Jack at Model Roundup several times the last years and he is a great guy to deal with and comes through every time. I usually send him an email with what I want and he takes care of me, no problem.

Bo Zolland lives here in my home town and I have met the guy a couple of times. His work is great.

I'm in on that, back in the day when Pro Stockers were based on and still looked like real cars. Nice work so far.

Not many kits have good carburetors as most are undetailed blobs that's supposed to be carburetors and that's fine as most of them are hidden under an air cleaner. But the best detailed carburetors I have seen in kits are the ones in the 1960 Ford Galaxie Starliner, the 1962 Ford Thunderbird, the 1971 Plymouth Duster and most of the latest developed AMT kits from the very late 1990's and early 2000's, most of them are nicely detailed even with venturi detail. The carbs in the Revell 69 Camaro's are quite nice but lacks venturi detail so it's no good if you are doing models with exposed carbs, otherwise they are good, and several Moebius kits also has decent carbs. Many use the Holley 4500 Dominators from the Revell/Monogram Pro Stock kits on race car models, but in my book they are awful representations of a Holley Dominator and the person who created the tool for them must never have seen a real Holley 4500 Dominator because the ones in the kits doesn't look like one wich you know if you ever been around one. The best looking Holley 4500 Dominator in model kits are the ones Jo-Han did for the 1971 Barracuda and 1971 Ford Maverick, the Dominators in the Revell Pro Sportsman kits are also decent...maybe slightly underscaled because the 4500 Dominators are big. So it depends on what you are going to use them for, for models with exposed carbs I prefer to use aftermarket carbs like the ones from Fireball Modelworks or Futuratraction as they are among the best out there.

New working link for Futurattraction https://www.futurattraction.com/

Looks like a Eaton/Fuller, maybe a 13 speed.

The cross over pipe is only used with single exhaust so with dual exhaust it's not needed. But the engines in this kit are quite simplified and the exhaust manifolds are casted to the block sides instead of being separate parts and the cross over pipe that should have been there for the stock version was never in the kit. The 1950 Convertible is even worse, similar simplified engine, no cross over pipe and the single exhaust system is casted into the chassis.