Force

I have both the Meng and Fujimi kits and both has their drawbacks, but I think the body has better proportions on the Fujimi kit, but as Justin says all the Fujimi GT 40 kits are curbside. The Meng kit is full detail but has some issues and I belive it's based on their 1:12 kit and the wheels and some other parts are not that great as some details are quite crude representations of what they are supposed to be.

The red sided car was only used a short ammount of time and was crashed, and in 1973 only as I understand it. All the pictures of it I have seen the red sided car has Pro 3 on it and in the 1972 season he had Pro 100.

I'm looking forward to see the progress.

It came out beautiful. Nice work Mark.

Yes it's supposed to be that way, the U-joints takes up that angle difference as well as the differences in hight. No axles as far as I know has the drive shaft in the center of the axle, it's more or less off center depending on manufacturer and how the power dividers on the forward axle are made. How much angle difference there are from the center depends on the distance between the center support bearing and the forward axle, on a longer drive shaft it's not as visible as on a short one. As you see here the drive shaft is not exactly in the center. And this one

This one? I may have a few more but these are the ones I found right now.

Yes you are of course right, I just checked my kits bought back then...16 years ago...time flies. I went by Scale Mates timeline in my earlier post wich often are wrong...so it's 2007, not 2011. And yes, it's time to reissue this kit.

Yes that's right, the drive shaft are slightly off center on most axles as the pinions are to one side of the ring gear in the differential, and in a power divider wich are used on dual drive tandems gears go down to drive the pinion on the forward axle and another shaft goes past the ring gear and come out off center at the rear of the pumpkin to drive the pinion on the rear axle.

I believe it was out 2011, 12 years ago...so one think it would be up for reissue soon.

Nice, the curved part on top could maybe have a sharper radius as it looks a bit too round, that will also put the step slightly higher. As you say, some things needs to be exaggerated some to look right, but overall it looks good.

Yes, the E model har the same dash as the C model Aerodynes, and that goes for both the E model Flat Top and Aerodyne cabs, so the dash you have done will work just fine for the E model. Yes a little tweak was necessary and maybe even a bit more, the upper surface of the step should be slightly below the bottom of the curved part and it could be even slightly higher, and the radius of the curved part could be slightly sharper and this would move the step and handles up even more and it will be close to perfect according to my nitpicking eye. ? You are right, the sides of the battery boxes are steel and don't have any diamond plate, it's only the covers that are aluminum diamond plate. There seems to have been a couple different patterns for the lower step used on the W900 battery boxes and one I have seen on many trucks is like you can see below but the one you did will work just fine and you don't have to change it if you don't want to.

Don't worry about it, the dash looks really good and I like to see it printed...as I said, I have lots of kits who need this dash. If you do a K100E I'm up for one. Flat Top or Aerodyne, well it's depending on personal taste, I suggested the Revell kit because the basic kit is the same for both the Flat Top and Aerodyne with different separate roof sections on the same cab, the downside is the price they go for and that they are not in production right now. But if you do something for the AMT kit you are pretty much locked on the Aerodyne as the only Flat Top they have is the K123 with a shorter and older style cab.

Well the NASCAR Ford FR-9 is not that Ford based as it's not a production engine, it's especially developed for NASCAR by Doug Yates and not available in any form in any car from the Ford factory. You forgot the most noticable parts on the engines, namely the shape of the heads and valve covers wich are very different between Ford FR-9 and Chevrolet R07, they could at least have done those 4 parts right but it doesn't look like they did. Most of the rest of the engine is pretty much covered by the air cleaner and vents. Yes that's it.

Nice and crisp castings indeed.

The soft ERTL tires are Good Year 11.00-20 and I really like them as they have some meat to them, the original tires in AMT kits has 10.00-20 wich I think looks a tad small, or 11.00-22 wich looks better, the makes are Uniroyal, Good Year or Firestone.

I have not seen any pre-wired MSD Pro Mag 44's anywhere.

If Scott or someone else does a convincing E model I'm up for it. I may be nitpicking but I want it to look right, I'm sorry about that but that's how my mind works.

Now we're talking. It looks good, maybe the knobs for the brake valves could have been even a touch smaller but it's good enough and 200% better than the kit offerings, so good work...now to the printer. ?? When it comes to the drivers side ash tray it's not a big deal as it's under the dash on the "dog house" and easy to scratch build if you want to. As for the K100E, I would be interested in whatever you decide to do, a front clip for an excisting cab you graft on or a complete cab, AMT or Revell AG doesn't matter as I have several of both. If you decide to do a complete cab the Revell AG kit it might be easier as the roof section on the Revell K100's is a separate piece so you can build either a flat top or Aerodyne depending on what kit you start with.

I believe the more angular grille came at the same time as the square headlights and it would look weird with square headlights and the more rounded grille from the C model. But as I said, I have seen someone quite recently who did the headlights and the parts where the headlights mount to, I don't remember where, probably on facebook somewhere...but you also need the more angular grille if you want to fake it...just my observation. One thing one could do is print a correct front section of the cab so one could be able to graft it on a K100C cab, because I believe the roof section is the same on the C and E and it's just the wind screens that are slanted 3 degrees more backwards and the front section under the wind screens is 4 inches further forward on the E compared to the C, and make the square stuff like the grille, horns and lights too, in that case we would get a more correct K100E. The side skirt above the front wheels are also at a different angle on the E compared to the C wich are more rounded. The reason for the setback front axle was to be able to mount longer leaf springs for a smoother ride, but that would not matter if someone did a correct cab as both versions were available on the E model.

I have seen somewhere that someone was doing just that but it takes more than the headlights to do a K100E, the whole front section of the cab is different as well as the grille wich is more angular than on the earlier K100's. The cab on the E model wich came 1984 is slightly longer as the windshields are laid back 3 degrees more than on the previous K100 models and the cab grew from 86 to 90 inches for the shorter single bunk cab and from 108 to 112 inches for the longer dual bunk cab, so the cab is 4 inches longer from front to back on an E model than the previous models while the roof lentgh is the same. So to do a correct K100E you have to do a complete cab, headlights and grille to get the right look as well as the side grab bars with steps wich are different from the earlier B and C models with separate aluminum steps, and the square horns, roof lights and turn signals. With that said it's not undoable but more work intensive.

I might give it a try. Do you have the personal version for private use?

I'm eager to see the results. I have saved a lot of references for the Aerodyne dash as I thought about scratchbuilding one and maybe have it replicated i resin, but with the 3D printing technique and CAD design it's probably less work and easier to rectify stuff, and I would have done it myself if I was able to work with CAD but I don't have a CAD program and don't know how to use it...I might have to get a course in CAD because I have lots and lots of ideas of things not available for both car and truck models. If you do the dash we can maybe persuade CTM to do a photo etch detail kit for it with gauge details and stuff because their stuff is great, but if nothing is available they don't seem to be interested. I will even provide references to them if they need them...all for the cause.

The kit allready has a Hendrickson walking beam suspension, AMT put a Hendrickson RTE extended leaf suspension on the W925 and K123 kits after they changed from the torsion bar suspension the kits had earlier, so it's not that different from the CTM Hedrickson RT suspension. The RTE may have been a smoother ride than the RT with the longer leaf springs and the RT was maybe a heavier spec suspension. With that said, the CTM suspension looks to be very nice and crisp and I look forward to see your progress.

You are welcone to them and I'll help out as much as I can as I have wished someone would do these dash panels for a long time, I don't know how to use a CAD program otherwise I would have done it myself. This also looks very nice, maybe some little tweaks here and there to get it even better. The step area at the left arrow looks to be a bit too deep and the angle of the upper panel are a bit too sharp as the upper and lower panels dont have the same angles, the base of the upper part should be closer to the upper edge of the lower part of these panels. The brake valve knobs at the right arrow could also be a bit smaller. Here is a picture showing the different angles of the panels the upper panel is slightly flatter than the lower panel and the step portion is not that deep. Also the left side on the upper part of the dash should be at an angle towards the panels with the gauges so the edge between the gauge panel and the side panels is straight, you can see it on the picture above but on the picture below it shows even better. This shows the same thing on an older Aerodyne dash panel with toggle switches instead of the squareish plastic ones on the picture above. There should also be an ash tray on the passenger side of the panel and there is one under the panel on the drivers side too, but these are not that hard to scratch build.

They look very nice, maybe a little tweak on the larger wheel because the 10 holes looks to be a bit too large and should be smaller, no larger than the hole size on the smaller wheel, otherwise they look good I don't have measures of a real box cover but I have a resin battery box that looks similar but not right as the step is longer and centered on this one and I took measures on that as it's the only thing I have. On the real box cover I sent pictures on earlier the step a bit shorter and off center as you can see if you compare them. Length: Hight: Width: Steps: The real one I sent picture of earlier the step is a bit shorter and off center so this is not right but I took measures of it anyway. Depth: This is for one side of the step on the box cover, the opposit side looks to be at least twice as wide or even more on the real box cover I sent pictures of earler and the step should be that much narrower. So you need two boxes to do one truck, one for each side as they are mirrored, the wider bit is at the front and the narrow bit is at the rear on both boxes, or the other way around if one prefer to do it that way. I hope this helps.