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Kit Form Services has some hub reductions, mostly European but some might work for you.

The Bro Wrecker also usually have the spreader lift bar for the forks for the axle lift or the wheel lift grid, I don't understand why Italeri included the extension bar and crane pulley assembly because you don't see that used often, it's the spreader lift bar you see most. Here is the standard equipment on a Bro Wrecker of that era. Here is a picture of one of the heavy wreckers in my hometown,, the wrecker type is called Bro Starke and the truck it's built on is a Scania R model.

Well the boom is not wrong on the Italeri wrecker body, first of all it's a Swedish built Bro Wrecker and the model kit was designed for the Scania T 142H kit and I built it back when it was new, later Italeri put this wrecker body on a couple of other kits both European and American. Overall the wrecker body is pretty much a good correct model of a Bro Wrecker as you can see here. The thing with Dansmodelworx build is that he's not building it as a Bro Wrecker, he's building it to more resemble a US made wrecker so in that case the Italeri kit is wrong and needed some modifications to get the right look, and of course you can do that if you want to. The Scania T142H wrecker model I built in the late 80's or if it was early 90's.

I know Julie drove the car but the text above the visor on the helmet reads Lindberg, maybe she borrowed Jonnie's helmet.

If you can find the wrecker body from the Revell Germany kit and use the Revell Germany W900 you shouldn't have to do anything as that wrecker body is designed for that kit. But if you are going to use another wrecker body you most likely have to modify the frame. There aren't that many wrecker bodies around, the Revell Germany KW W900 wich has a Century wrecker body, the Revell Germany Can-Do/Will-Do with a Challenger Rotator body, the AMT Peterbilt 359 Small Window Unilite cab and 1100 series cab "Big Stick" wreckers (they have the same "Big Stick" body on both kits) and the Italeri kits with a Swedish made Bro Wrecker body are the only ones I know of from kits. I have seen some other wreckers on the aftermarket, I have seen a Holmes 750 and I believe KFS had another wrecker but I don't know if they are available.

Yes you are right...I didn't notice that. The valve covers are upsidedown if you look at the bolt pattern, the FE has two bolts on the bottom and three up top, one in the middle and one towards each side slightly lower.

I see now and then people who hasn't followed or even read the instructions on how to mount the tires on the rear wheels on the Revell Peterbilt 359 and Kenworth W900 Aerodyne snap kits. If you do it wrong it looks horrible and if you do it right it looks a lot better...not perfect as these wheels are way too shallow to be realistic...but it is what it is. Here is how you are supposed to do it, the wheel rim goes inside the tire so the outermost lip on the rim is inside the tire, so the rims are not only pushed through the tire like on most of the kits, if you do the outermost lip on the rim shows and it shouldn't. Here is a blown up picture from the instructions on how to do it. And here is how it should look if you have done it right. And if it looks like this you have done it wrong. The right way looks a lot better, doesn't it. Easy as pie. The pictures are not mine except for the blown up instruction picture, the others are borrowed from a couple of threads on this forum.

Njce It's a hard kit to build.

The intake from that engine will not fit the 427 SOHC without modifications. The engine in your picture is a regular Ford FE with wedge heads and the only thing the regular FE 427 and the 427 SOHC has in common is the basic block design. On a Ford FE the intake manifold is wide and the flanges mates up to the heads under the upper lip of the valve covers, the SOHC has a different intake manifold design and the heads are also totally different and the intake manifold mates up to the heads before the valve covers, not under them like it does on a regular FE. Ford 427 SOHC 8 stack fuel injection intake manifold, Hilborn in this case. Regular Ford FE 8 stack intake manifold. Ford FE Weber intake manifold wich looks very close to a 8 stack fuel injection manifold. Notice the mounting flanges for the valve covers and the holes for the push rods.

I agree with you, doing research on what you want to build is part of the fun.

Lo and behold, I got issue #216 today. #212, #213 and #215 are still missing and god knows where they are.

We'll see when and if it shows up here in Umea.

Well I have contacted the subscription department several times and even here and nothing happened the first few times, finally I got an answer after I was a bit harsh in my complain but all they did was open up the digital versions of the magazine for me...that's not what I wan't, I want the hard copys wich I have paid for for my collection, I thought I would get them eventually but nothing has happened so far because I haven't seen any magazines yet. So as far as I'm concerned I feel kind of ignored.

Well that's the downside of keeping the kits sealed old and new, if something is missing or damaged it's often too late to do something about it. I usually open my kits to check if they are complete and undamaged but keep them sealed inside.

Well rubber also deterorates over time and dry rot and cracks.

We need new better more detailed kits of both the 1963, 1963½ and 1964 Galaxies as the ones available are old, low detail and very incorrect in places. If Round 2 wanted to they could do new kits of them based on the very nice 1960 Galaxie Starliner kit wich they could use the chassis and drive train from, do new bodies, new brightwork and new interiors and we would have a lot better Galaxie kits than the poor ones available now.

They are tubeless style one piece 10-hole 22.5 and 24.5 inch Alcoa's and they are quite easy to find both in kits and on the aftermarket. Allthough most of the AMT truck kits with 10-hole Alcoa are tube style split ring style 20 and 22 inch wheels and they are not correct for this application as they are older style and obsolete.

I even think they suggest to use tape for this, but it's really not a good solution as tape deteriorates and the glue on it doesn't work as well over time regardless of brand and product, at least I have not found any that will hold up. So I don't know, maybe some kind of fabric glued to the backside of the slats will work.

The mailing issues is not only from the US to Canada, it looks to be all over and I don't know where the problem is, I never got issues 212, 213, 215...so it's 3 magazines I have paid for but not recieved...and it will be very interesting to see if 216 will come...but I will not hold my breath as it seems very unlikely. The only issues I got this year is issue #211 and #214 and the mailing service was a lot better during the Covid pandemic shut down than it is now. Digital coyps doesn't do it for me, I want to hold the magazine in my hand and read it, and if digital is the only option I will not renew my subscription when it expires about a year from now...that's it...because I hate reading magazines on the computer or other devices. How hard can it be, you as a magazine publisher do a deal with a mailing service and expect them to deliver but they don't do it, hold them accountabe for it and demand that they solve the problems and deliver the service you pay for and fulfill the contract...otherwise you have to look elsewhere don't you. It's the same for us subscribers, a subscription to a magazine is a contract and I'm expecting to get all the copys of a magazine I have paid for regardless, if the copys are lost in the mail or damaged I expect to get replacements from the publisher...wich I have asked for several times and still not recieved. I'm starting to loose patience in this matter as nothing has been done what so ever to deliver the copys I have paid for...the only thing done is that you opened the digital issues for me...but I still want and expect to get my hard copy magazines for my collection as I have paid for them. I have no reason to lie and I have no use for duplicates, I just want to get the things I have paid for.

A Ford FE engine is not hard to find at all as most of the model kits with Ford big block engines has a FE, displacement wise it doesn't matter as all are visually the same except for small details. The best FE engine I have seen so far is the one in the AMT 1960 Ford Galaxie and the 2 'n 1 and Custom versions has many engine options with different intake and exhaust manifolds.

Yes it's the Jo-Han kit and it was the last time it was seen as the tooling disappeared after that run together with the 1970 Olds, the Rambler S/C and the Mercury Comet, I kknow there were plans to reissue them but the tooling was lost.

Very nice indeed.

Type in Chevrolet R07 on Google and you will find lots of pictures. The R07 came in 2007 and is an engine developed just for NASCAR, all Chevrolet engines used in NASCAR Cup are built by Richard Childress Racing and Hendrick Motorsports. However, the R07 engine has evolved some since 2007 and they use fuel injection instead of carburetors, and individual coils instead of a distributor nowadays, otherwise the basic engine is pretty much the same. Noteworthy is that all Ford FR9 engines used in NASCAR Cup nowadays are built by Roush-Yates and the Toyota teams get their engines from TRD in California...all are specially developed for NASCAR and not available in any street car.. ."Stock" yeah right.?

Keep in mind that Sox & Martin had several 68 Hemi Barracuda's and different versions over the years like the other cars they ran, so it can be challenging to find good references. I have plans to do a Sox & Martin Hemi Barracuda myself, I found a resin Super Stock 1968 Barracuda body some years ago and will use the AMT Duster chassis and the Hemi from the AMT 68-69 GTX/Roadrunner for my build.