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Everything posted by Force
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A classic case of taking a shortcut. It's not a bad kit, it has lots of parts and the wrecker parts are very nice, but you can't do a correct replica of the Stepp's Can-Do wrecker with what's in the box.
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Well the real Can-Do is a short hood 379 119" bbc and the thing I refered to from Tim's website is how you can tell the difference between a 378 119" and a 379 119". The Italeri kit issued by AMT recently is a 378 and the hood can be modified to look like a 379 aluminum hood with some work. http://www.timstrucks.com/PB4.html
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The same Cummins 475 engine is in all of the Revell Germany Peterbilt 353/359, Kenworth K100 and T600 kits, and the very wrong Marmon kit. The original Stepp's Can-Do wrecker the kit is based on is a short hood 379 119 bbc and had a Cat 3406 enigne and the model is a 359 127 bbc with the Cummins 475, but the rest is correct for the first version of the Can-Do as the truck has been re-done since the model kit was made. Some say the original Can-Do truck is a 378 and not a 379, but according to the Peterbilt guru Tim Ahlborn's site the 378-119 has a one piece fiberglass hood and the 379-119 has an aluminum hood riveted together and you can see a parting line with rivets near the top of the hood on the 379 wich the 378 don't have, this aluminum hood is on the real Can-Do as you can clearly see the the parting line and rivets on some of the pictures of it.
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Elvis Presleys Spinout Cobra CSX 3011 and 3012
Force replied to MININORTHFORDMAN's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Ehhh...NO. But I like Cobras and Elvis so I will follow this. -
Early smallblock Ford engines
Force replied to junkyardjeff's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The 221-302 are but not the 351W, it's closely related and the 351W has the same 4.00 inch bore as the 289 and 302, but the 351W has longer stroke at 3.50 inches and the deck hight is 1.30 inches taller for that to work, so the 351W is both taller and wider than the others, there are also other differences but that's the most noticable externally. -
This is not just a problem for the AMT kit, I don't like the later Revell metal wheel attachment pins either, the front suspensions on these later kits are designed very simplified and bulky (like 3 parts total) just for this pin system to work because if it was like before the metal pins it wouldn't be enough material and it would break when you try to push the pins in. I like the snap on system they used before this metal pin system better where the front suspensions was nicer crispier castings with more parts (5-8 parts ) and looked more true to the real cars, and as I don't like my models to roll because they are static models and not toys I usually file up the hole in the wheel back so the wheel fit snuggly without any pressure and glue them in place.
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Issue 208 was in my mailbox here in Sweden yesterday.
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A&N Truck Model Volvo D-13 truck engine
Force replied to Mr mopar's topic in Truck Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
I got mine yesterday and it looks awsome, very nice and crisp castings. -
1963 Roger Penske Grand Sport Corvette
Force replied to MarkJ's topic in Other Racing: Road Racing, Salt Flat Racers
Very nice. -
Nice
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Nice copy of Aulis Hämeenkorpi's 32 Coupe, I have seen his car a couple of times.
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Early smallblock Ford engines
Force replied to junkyardjeff's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
As the 221, 260, 289 and 302 basically is the same engine with different bore/stroke so you can use either with some small changes, the early ones have the oil filler tube on the timing chain cover and pre-1965 they have a generator, you also need the right looking valve covers and air cleaner and if you want to have power steering you need to add an Eaton pump used on all early Ford engines. I see the Trumpeter Falcon was mentioned but that engine is not very good as it's kind of large, bulky and crude...the 221-302 Ford is a tiny engine and the Trumpeter version looks way too large. -
NHRA Museum Model Collection
Force replied to papajohn97's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I have been to the NHRA Museum several times...I believe it's 5 or 6 so far and last time was November 2018...and I have seen the models there. Together with the old race cars this display is well worth a visit and I have met legends like the late Tom "The Mongoo$e" McEven and TV Tommy Ivo there at different times. If you time it when they have their Twilight Cruise car show first wednesday each month outside the Museum, when the pandemic restrictions are lifted, you have much to see and the admission to the Museum is free. -
You are improving with every build Michelle, good work.
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It's coming together nice Dan, I really like it.
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Dan Gurney & Swede Savage AAR Cuda’s
Force replied to Mopar - D's topic in WIP: Other Racing: Road Racing, Land Speed Racers
You can see the truck and trailer buildup here. -
another tired freightliner
Force replied to signguy2108's topic in Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
Nice weathering. -
MPC 1/25 Corvette 1967 - can it be built stock?
Force replied to youpey's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
The Revell 67 Coupe is nice. I don't think the MPC Corvette C2's are that bad, the chassis is a lot better and more detailed than what's in the AMT 63 kits and will most likely work just fine under it if you want to do a more detailed 63 Corvette. -
I usually put a sand paper on a flat surface like a piece of glass, a table top or something like that and take the engine block halves and cut off the locating pins as they are not needed, sand the edges on the parts until they are flat, put some tube glue on the edges and let the glue set for a short while so the plastic will melt slightly, put the parts together and adjust until it looks good and press the parts together and hold with a clamp or something until the glue dries, it doesn't matter if there are excessive glue and plastic around the edges as that's kind of the meaning with this procedure, so leave it for now, after it dried I brush the seam with a thin bottle glue wich solves both the tube glue and plastic slightly and let it dry, sand the seam and it will be unvisible...and no putty needed. This is a trick I learned many many years ago for two piece parts that don't should have a visible seam and I allways do it like that, so it will work on gear boxes, rear axles and things like that.
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The later body also have the chrome trim around the edge of the rear panel missing on the first issues of the Bel Air.
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Seriously, haven't this discussion deviated enough from what the original subject was about...the old tool AMT 1957 Chevy kit, at least I'm getting more and more confused when I try to read everything as some posts are about the original subject the OP posted and among them lots of posts about all other 57 kits made after the AMT kit, if you want to talk about them it's better to start a new topic and stop hijacking this one.