Force

The truck looks similar to the one used in Duel except for some details like it's missing the fuel tank on the drivers side between the cab and tandem and no swamp cooler box, the tanker trailer is not the same type as they used in Duel, it was a late 40's early 50's Fruehauf 33 feet trailer with cabinets on the sides in front of the tandem. I read somewhere the Duel truck/trailer was owned and operated by Union Oil before it was used in the movie.

The distributor for the ignition should have 8 holes around the circumference and 1 in the middle, 8 wires for the cylinders and one wire for the coil, so 9 wires total, not 10. The Meng distributor is not bad but the plug wires they have are wrong so it's no use trying to get them. It's quite easy to do yourself and get it right, the firing order on a Ford FE 427 (and many other Ford engines) is 15426378 and the distributor arm rotates anti clock wise, the cylinders are numbered seen from the front 1234 on the left side and 5678 on the right side so the number 5 and 3 wires has to cross over to the other side for the sequense to be right. The number one spark plug is placed just behind the first exhaust port seen from the front, the second plug just behind the second exhaust port, both angeled backwards, the third plug just in front of the third exhaust port and the last one just in front of the fourth exhaust port, both angeled forward. Not much of this is visible when the model is done so it doesn't matter that much, if you have the plug wires there together with some plumbing it will look a bit more busy in the engine bay.

Yes you are absolutely right. I have seen pictures of the RK Motors restoration of the LeMans winning #2 car chassis P/1046 Entered by Shelby American like the #1 P/1015 second placed car, and it looks like they tried to do it as close as possible to what it was back in the day; Rare Drive has also restored the Alan Mann racing #7 car chassis XGT-2 from the same race. Of course the cars changed some under it's active racing period but if you do a kit of a specific car from a specific race one can at least hope they did the homework and that the kit is right...or at least as close as it's possible to do. I will for sure get one or two of these when they come out and even if some things needs work to be right it can be a good starting point anyway, and it's the right scale for me as I don't have room for 1:12 kits

Yes I have seen that mess Trumpeter call a GT40 and it's worse than the Meng kit.

Well Meng has not done their homework right if they say that because the 1:12 kit is not that accurate if you know how it should look. And of course there is a standard even with racing cars if the model is supposed to be a certain version like the Meng kits are, the liverys included at least in the upcoming 1:24 kit are the 1, 2 and 3 finish cars at LeMans 1966, car #2, # 1 and # 5 so if they are supposed to be accurate they have to be exactly like the cars was back then without modifocations or changes, and these cars are still around so it can't be that hard. The most wrong things with the 1:12 version except for the wires and plumbing wich has much to desire with where they start and ends, is that they call the oil tank for the dry sump oil system under the front hood a fuel tank, and the engine is not a good representation of how a 427 Side Oiler FE engine should look to be right. Maybe small things for some but if you brag about that the kit is supposed to be the most accurately represented GT40 ever done you must live up to it...and they for sure haven't as far as I'm concerned.

The FH4 kit is the 4th generation of the FH cab, and if it has FH16 and 750 emblems and Italeri has done it right the engine should be a D16, not a D13. But both the D13 and D16 look very similar if they have single turbo and it's not so easy to tell them appart unless it's the K versions of the engines, because the most powerful 750 hp D16K version has dual turbos and the D13K is a Turbo Compound engine and is available with 460 or 500 hp, the D16 is not available with Turbo Compound, just single and dual turbos depending on version. The A&N D13 version above looks to be a Turbo Compound D13K TC and looks to be very nice.

Looks quite good so far, it's CAD renderings and looks a little crude here and there but nothing that can't be fixed. I just hope if it's detailed like the 1:12 kit the details are more accurate because after what I have seen on the 1:12 kit it has some things I don't understand how they were thinking when they did it and some things are completely wrong.

And to put in other Italeri Volvo FH kits with wrong TD120 engines, the D12 was upgraded to D13 in 2005 so after that it's right in many of the Volvo trucks. It looks like a nice engine kit.

There are a lot of "cheap" parts coming on the market soon. Jerico transmissions, Ford 9 inch rear ends, wheels, brakes and other obsolete racing stuff no one can use in these series anymore. The NASCAR teams are allowed 12 "active" chassis for each car number and 4 "inactive" chassis set aside for future use (to replace a chassis damaged and irrepairabe after a crash or something like that), and there are 40 teams in the field...all teams don't have that many chassis available to them but the large big budget teams for sure do so there will be lots of left over parts after the change to the new car spec in 2022

Nice

Yeah right. Like it will save costs to have to do a whole new car with everything new except for the engines wich still are going to be the same spec, new independent rear end, new sequential gear box, new larger brakes, new larger alloy wheels and lots of carbon fibre and other exotic materials, nothing can be re-used from the car they have today, not even the chassis and drive train. I don't like the coming changes at all and I think it will benefit the large big budget teams most like Hendrick Motorsports, Joe Gibbs Racing, Stewart-Haas Racing, Team Penske and Richard Childress Racing wich is half of the cars in the Cup starting grid, and the independent teams with small budgets will get a lot more costs, at least initially, and the racing will most likely not be any closer than it is today.

You might have to give it a couple more days, it's only Tuesday. Some things takes longer now due to the Covid thing. I Have bought from Dave at AITM several times and have had no problems even tho' my stuff was sent over seas.

Before 1982 they had weight break in the NHRA Pro Stock class, that means pounds per cubic inch so larger displacement engine means a heavier car. so in 1980 and 81 he must have had a smaller engine as most of them did, but 1982 NHRA did the 500 cubic inch format wich still is in use today and all Pro Stock racers changed to 500 cui engines. WJ ran Oldsmobile cars from 1982 until 1995 with "Oldsmobile" branded engines wich in fact are a GM DRCE engine based on Chevy Big Block but not available in any showroom car. DRCE stands for Drag Racing Competition Engine and are made in four generations and used in all GM Pro Stock cars, WJ swithced to Pontiac 1996 and still used a DRCE engine of a different generation and the DRCE is still used today but in a fuel injected version. Revell did four kits of Oldsmobile Cutlass Pro Stock cars, the Larry Morgan Castrol Super Clean car and the Warren Johnson GM Performance car and these came 1994, the Jeg Coughlin Jeg's car from 2000 and a generic Olds Pro Stock car with no specific decals from 2007, this kit has the DRCE engine you need with Oldsmobile branded valve covers. Revell also did Warren Johnson's Pontiac Firebird Superman GM Goodwrench car 1999 and a couple of other versions of that kit are aso available but it has a later version of the DRCE engine with sheet metal no name valve covers.

The tubes and valves next to the drivers seat is the controls for the brake water cooling system used on many logging trucks back in the day, a tank with water pressurised with air feeding water to cool the brake drums on the truck and trailer when needed.

NIce work as allways. ?

I know only one 62 Cadillac styrene model kit in 1:25 and it's from Jo-Han and it's a Fleetwood 4d Hard Top and quite hard to find. I have seen the Fleetwood and a Coupe DeVille in resin and but they are quite expensive if you find one. Palmer appearently did a Convertible in 1:32 scale...but what can I say...it's a Palmer with all that comes with that.

Yes, or solder, easy to bend and hold the shape.

With help from me with measurements and pictures Rico did 1963 Ford poverty caps like I use on my Galaxie 500XL Fastback, I bought a couple of sets from his Shapeways shop and they look great.

Nice builds.

It's the same here as with the Meng GT40 kit, this is a Chinese developed product and Trumpeter like Meng haven't bothered to do the necessary research to get it right. I found the instructions for this kit on line and have looked at them too, and I'm surpriced how simplified this kit is with the scale in mind, I mean in 1:12th scale you can do wonders and if you compare these kits to the Tamiya F1 1:12 scale kits, even the old ones from the 70's, the Tamiya kits are way more detailed and a lot more accurate. I'm glad I don't do many kits in big scales, I don't have room for them, otherwise I would for sure have bought both the Trumpeter and Meng kits as I really like F40's, but I think I would have been disappointed of the lack of accuracy.

A resin spare wheel for the Trumpeter and Magnifier kit (wich are the same kit in different boxes) is available from Renissance TK12/003, and KA Models does a nice upgrade kit KS-00007 for it, a little pricey but nice. The oil cooler can't have an overflow tube, the oil system in the engine is under 60-70 psi pressure made by the oil pump so the oil in the oil coolers has the same pressure as in the oil system in the engine itself and are plumbed to the oil system, the only place there is no oil pressure is in the oil pan and in this case the oil tank as a dry sump system was used in the Mk II GT40's. Here is how it looks on a real GT40 427 engine, it's a two piece thing with an aluminum front cover with gear driven scavenge pump at the bottom and the magnesum oil pan Here is a link to a Magnifier/Trumpeter build here on the forum and if you look around you might find more, you might get some hints from there.

Looks nice so far. But it shows it's a Chinese developed model because it's not that accurate, they did not bother to do the necessary research to get it right so there are lots of things that's weird. I know the Ford FE engine quite well as I'm working on building a new one right now for my 1963½ Ford Galaxie 500XL and it looks like the fuel and oil lines are there just to get the engine compartment to look busy because some of them are going places that dont make much sence. I looked at your pictures of the engine and was kind of intrigued by what they have done and here is a link to the complete instructions https://www.themodellingnews.com/2021/02/build-review-pt-i-ford-gt-40-mkii-1966.html and I have looked at them closely and wonder how they were thinking. First of all the firing order wouldn't work like they have done it, the FE has 15426378 firing order and the distributor arm rotates anti clock wise, the cylinders are numbered counting from the front 1234 on the right side (passenger side on a street car) and 5678 on the left side and if you route the wires like they suggest the engine would fire the whole right bank first and then the left...it doesn't work that way because the 3 and 5 wires has to cross over to the other side of the engine to be right, this will not show much since the distributor is mostly hidden. Step 21 The part No P6 line on top of the engine looks a bit strange because at the rear it goes into the lifter gallery under the intake manifold where the crank case ventilation usually goes on older FE's and it should go to an oil catch tank with a ventilator or something like that, but it looks like they have routed it into the water passage where one of the heater hoses usually goes on a street car, right behind the thermostat housing at the front of the intake manifold...a bit weird. Step 23 The part No P8 fuel line goes down from in front of the carburetor and into the engine block side and one can wonder why because there are nothing there on a real block, the fuel pump are mounted on the drivers side of the timing chain cover just below the water pump on a street car but this one has electric fuel pumps above the left side fuel tank on the bulkhead on the car so that line should go to the fuel pumps and not the block side. Step 24 The P7 lines are also a bit strange, they start at the left side of the engine block side near the rear, they are suppsed to go to the oil coolers wich are one on each side, but I wonder how they were thinking as a couple of the P7 lines goes to a tank behind the drivers head on the bulkhead wich looks to be the expansion overflow tank for the cooling system, on the engine side of the lines there's nothing right there on a real FE block and the only oil outlet to and from the oil gallery is on the left side right behind the timing chain cover at the front of the engine block where the oil filter usually goes on a FE, and there is where they should have started, the GT40 has a dry sump system so it's a bit different from a street car but the oil lines should go from somewhere around there in line with the oil filter. There are some other strange things on the Kar Kraft T44 Trans Axle where one oil line P3d is going to the what looks to be the expansion overflow tank for the cooling system and that can't be right because you definately don't want to mix oil and water. The thing they call fuel tank in Step 42 is not for fuel at all, it's in fact the reservoir tank for the dry sump oil system used on early Mk II's because all Mk II's and Mk IV's has dry sump oil systems and the early Mk II has the oil tank there, the Mk IIB has the oil tank in the engine compartment on the forward left side beside the engine and the Mk IV has the oil tank on the other side near the rear wheel. The fuel tanks are rubber bags inside the side pods on each side of the car and the fuel filler cap is on the right side in front of the drivers door on the outside of the car, some has one filler on each side of the car, so even here they got it wrong.

They could easily have been retrofitted when the tubeless tires became more popular, it's done all the time. The 4070B Transtar II also has ten hole one piece front wheels but the rears are five hole, the 4300 has ten hole wheels all around.

I do remember that car, nice work.

Nice progress. One thing tho', I don't think your routing of the brake lines for the rear brakes is so good going under the axles, above and behind yes but not under where they could easily snag on something, I would let them go inside the frame rail and go down to the brake chambers from there.