Force

A "must have" kit indeed.

Exactly my thought. It would look a lot better with that fix like on the AMT 1966 Ford Fairlane kits.

Of course they did, lots of US made cars were sold new over here in Sweden and other parts of Europe, the most notable difference is the kilometer scale on the speedometer/odometer instead of miles since most European countries converted to metric well before the 1960's starting with France 1795, otherwise the cars are pretty much the same as the US couterparts.

Can't go there, Hot Rod is blocked. Due to the EU's Global Data Protection Regulation, our website is currently unavailable to visitors from most European countries. We apologize for this inconvenience and encourage you to visit www.motortrend.com for the latest on new cars, car reviews & news, concept cars and auto show coverage, awards and much more. I can't understand this BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH Motor Trend Group/Discovery Inc are keeping up with, the GDPR was legislated in the EU countries 2016 and the Motor Trend Group websites, except for the Motor Trend site wich I'm not interested in, are the only ones we can't get in to from Europe even now 5 years later, at least not what I have seen so far and I visit lots of US websites.

Yes it's a bit strange NASCAR allowed the Boss 429 in the Ford Torino and Mercury Cyclone when these cars weren't available with this particular engine. I mean, Mopar did it fairly right because except for 1964-65 Race Hemi the 426 Hemi was indeed available to get for a customer in the car models used on track in NASCAR racing. Today it's different because the Ford FR9 they use now developed and built by Roush-Yates is not available in any car, it's not related to any other engine as they started with a clean sheet and designed it from scratch especially for NASCAR use

Very nice. I do have this kit and I hope mine will be as nice as yours.

You get two in the Revell/Monogram Hurst Hairy Olds kit.

It depends on what type of magneto it is, this one does. A magneto is a distributor like any with the difference that a Magneto produces it's own current for the spark, so if you get the engine going when you have a magneto you don't need a battery or charging system for it to continue running and it will do so until you short it out. Magnetos are widely used on air craft piston engines wich often have two separate magnetos, and other stuff where you need the ignition to work even if external power like a battery and alternator/generator fails.

Yes the Can-Do/Will-Do wreckers and many other Peterbilt 353 and 359 kits are based on this kit, even the Marmon...but that's not that correct. Most of them are the same base kit with added parts for the other versions.

I think the old tool AMT 57 Chevy is quite good if you take in consideration when it was developed, I mean how many kits from 1963 is perfect. Of course it has it's flaws but it builds up good...at least after what I remember from when I built one last.

Edit

Ehh...Car Craft...it was from another publisher, The Enthusiast Network, TEN for short and now called the Motor Trend Group, wich appearently is under the Discovery Inc. umbrella, yes the Kabel TV Network...and has noting to do with The Rodders Journal. TEN/MTG killed off most of their publications 2019. In TRJ case I belive it started with the headquarters move from California to Virginia and then the Covid thing came along...but other publications have had no trouble getting out their copys to the subscribers, I have a couple more magazines on subscription and they come as they should. The last thing I got from TRJ was the 2020 Holliday Catalog and a few email updates back in late January, nothing after that.

If you think car modelers are nitpicking you haven't met aircraft and armor modelers.

I have not recieved #84 yet and it whould have arrived long time ago...and I'm still a subscriber as far as I know. I have not ordered anything else tho' and the emails from them with updates has stopped coming wich was quite frequent before. So I don't know what's going on.

That's the 7 litre 427 Mk II P/1047 entered by Shelby American at Le Mans 24 Hours 1966 and sister car to the winner P/1046 but retired from the race, it also entered the Daytona 24 Hours the same year and did not finish that race either. This car was later upgraded to Mk IIB configuration painted blue and entered Le Mans 24 Hours again 1967 by Shelby American and retired from the race, later Ford France entered the car in the Trofeo Frescobaldi Mugello race the same year wich it also retired from, and a couple of other races like the 12 Hour Reims race wich it won. This kit has a one piece body like all of the other Fujimi Mk II kits, the rear section can be opened but there is not much under there, the transaxle, rear suspension and the rear part of the exhaust are there but no engine and other stuff.

Yes, the Pegasus brake rotors and calipers are for their own wheels wich are larger like 18-19-20" but they will fit other large wheels, so they are too big for smaller stock style 14-15" wheels.

I wonder why they put grooves on the discs in the first place, there are no grooves on most of the disc brakes around and if there are meant to be grooves and holes they don't look like that because you want as much braking surface as possible for them to be efficient, so these should be flat smooth surfaced ventilated discs with no grooves. What I don't understand is if you make the effort to develop a model kit of something and don't bother to take the time and do the research to do it right while you are at it. Develop and cut the tool for a correct kit doesn't cost more than to do the same thing for an incorrect kit so it can't be that, and if you do a correct kit the good reputation and the positive reception from the market you get is worth a lot and boost the sales of mentioned kit, and that can't be a bad thing. I mean in this case there are lots of information and a gazillion pictures of GT40 Mk II's everywhere on the internet so it's not that hard to get most of the model kit right without doing too much work other than spend a few hours on the computer and see how things on the car should look, of course it's preferable if you have access to a real car because it will help a lot. When it comes to smaller details like wiring and plumbing there are lots of information on that too so it's not that hard to get right either, and it helps if you know what the purpose of the parts on the car are like the oil coolers, expansion tank for the cooling system, fuel tanks, fuel pumps, oil reservior, oil pumps and so on, so to have some basic knowledge about the car and how it's engineered is good because If you know how things looks and works it's a lot easier to understand what to do.

Fantastic.

The Fujimi GT40 Mk I has separate back section but not much under it, the reason for that is that they do a couple of versions based on the same tooling with different back sections and front hatch for different years. The Fujimi GT40 Mk II wich also has been reboxed and issued by Revell is a one piece body...same here, not much under the rear cover, all of the Mk II are the same except for decals, so no Mk IIB wich is a slightly different configuration and used in 1967 together with the Mk IV. Just remember the Mk II, Mk IIB and Mk IV are the only GT40's with the 7 litre FE 427, the GT Prototypes and Mk I only had small block engines starting in 1964, after the 1966 and 1967 LeMans wins with the Mk II and Mk IV FIA changed the engine displacement rules for the 1968 season to maximum 5 litres. So for 1968 and 1969 they went back to the Mk I with 302's (Gulf livery), but that didn't stop the GT40 wich won anyway, both years with the same chassis (P/1075) but with different drivers and starting numbers (No 9 1968 and No 6 1969), of course there were Mk I's in 1966 and 1967 LeMans races too but the winning cars were Mk II and Mk IV. I have 4 of the Fujimi tooling GT40's, the Mk I Chassis P/1017 1966 Spa-Francorchamps car, the Mk II P/1015 No 1 and P/1046 No 2 from 1966 LeMans 1 2 3 win and the Mk I P/1075 No 6 Gulf wich won the 1969 LeMans race, I also have one Revell GT Prototype and one each of the Testors issues of the IMC Mk I, Mk II and Mk IV and the MPC Mk IV...but no J-car so far.

Well it takes time to change a front wing, a regular pit stop for all 4 wheels takes around 2-2.5 seconds so another 4-5 seconds to change a front wing is devastating for the race, especially if you have to do an unplanned pit stop to do it.

If you look closely you see the small gauge yellow wire coming from the inside of the car from the ignition /+ and the coiled orange wire going to the distributor points/ignition trigger...so it for sure looks like it's the top of the coil going through the firewall. A bulkhead connector don't have any other wires than the high tension lead from the coil to the connector and from the connector to the center of the distributor cap, it's just an insulated connector.with one lead through it, nothing else.

They went to fuel injection in Cup cars 2012 but the dual coils/ignition system were long before that. They use coil packs today like most modern cars with individual coils for each cylinder controled by an ECU...eight cylinders-eight coils, so no distributor needed.

This kit is a different tooling originally issued by Revell Germany back in 1982...and it's for sure a full detail kit. Some differences are that the Snap kit has a Cat 3406 engine and a short sleeper, the Revell Germany kit has a Cummins Dual Turbo NTC 475 engine and a longer sleeper.

I agree with you there. I have done a lot of research on the Duel truck lately as I plan to build one myself some day and I'm in the process of gathering the right parts for it to do it as I want to. When you do a model of the Duel truck you have to choose wich one to do as there were three of them built up for the movie, or maybe do a combination of them to your liking and get the look. The most important thing is to have fun when you build and do what you like, and I really like your model even tho' it might not be exactly as the original movie truck was in every detail like the wheels, the engine, the rear suspension and such, your model for sure capture the look anyway and I think you did a good job of it.

I have seen several GM NASCAR Cup cars with the coils inside the car under or on top of the dash. I don't know when it started but before the enignes they use today they often had two independent ignition systems with two coils and two ignition boxes, coil selector and a switch so if the first one stops working they can switch over to the other one. I don't know how they do it today with the coil packs on the newer fuel injected engines but I think they still have two ignition boxes and can switch between them. Here is a picture of that setup in a NASCAR car on top of the dash, it's one example but it could look different and placed different.