Force

Looks quite good so far, it's CAD renderings and looks a little crude here and there but nothing that can't be fixed. I just hope if it's detailed like the 1:12 kit the details are more accurate because after what I have seen on the 1:12 kit it has some things I don't understand how they were thinking when they did it and some things are completely wrong.

And to put in other Italeri Volvo FH kits with wrong TD120 engines, the D12 was upgraded to D13 in 2005 so after that it's right in many of the Volvo trucks. It looks like a nice engine kit.

There are a lot of "cheap" parts coming on the market soon. Jerico transmissions, Ford 9 inch rear ends, wheels, brakes and other obsolete racing stuff no one can use in these series anymore. The NASCAR teams are allowed 12 "active" chassis for each car number and 4 "inactive" chassis set aside for future use (to replace a chassis damaged and irrepairabe after a crash or something like that), and there are 40 teams in the field...all teams don't have that many chassis available to them but the large big budget teams for sure do so there will be lots of left over parts after the change to the new car spec in 2022

Nice

Yeah right. Like it will save costs to have to do a whole new car with everything new except for the engines wich still are going to be the same spec, new independent rear end, new sequential gear box, new larger brakes, new larger alloy wheels and lots of carbon fibre and other exotic materials, nothing can be re-used from the car they have today, not even the chassis and drive train. I don't like the coming changes at all and I think it will benefit the large big budget teams most like Hendrick Motorsports, Joe Gibbs Racing, Stewart-Haas Racing, Team Penske and Richard Childress Racing wich is half of the cars in the Cup starting grid, and the independent teams with small budgets will get a lot more costs, at least initially, and the racing will most likely not be any closer than it is today.

You might have to give it a couple more days, it's only Tuesday. Some things takes longer now due to the Covid thing. I Have bought from Dave at AITM several times and have had no problems even tho' my stuff was sent over seas.

Before 1982 they had weight break in the NHRA Pro Stock class, that means pounds per cubic inch so larger displacement engine means a heavier car. so in 1980 and 81 he must have had a smaller engine as most of them did, but 1982 NHRA did the 500 cubic inch format wich still is in use today and all Pro Stock racers changed to 500 cui engines. WJ ran Oldsmobile cars from 1982 until 1995 with "Oldsmobile" branded engines wich in fact are a GM DRCE engine based on Chevy Big Block but not available in any showroom car. DRCE stands for Drag Racing Competition Engine and are made in four generations and used in all GM Pro Stock cars, WJ swithced to Pontiac 1996 and still used a DRCE engine of a different generation and the DRCE is still used today but in a fuel injected version. Revell did four kits of Oldsmobile Cutlass Pro Stock cars, the Larry Morgan Castrol Super Clean car and the Warren Johnson GM Performance car and these came 1994, the Jeg Coughlin Jeg's car from 2000 and a generic Olds Pro Stock car with no specific decals from 2007, this kit has the DRCE engine you need with Oldsmobile branded valve covers. Revell also did Warren Johnson's Pontiac Firebird Superman GM Goodwrench car 1999 and a couple of other versions of that kit are aso available but it has a later version of the DRCE engine with sheet metal no name valve covers.

The tubes and valves next to the drivers seat is the controls for the brake water cooling system used on many logging trucks back in the day, a tank with water pressurised with air feeding water to cool the brake drums on the truck and trailer when needed.

NIce work as allways. ?

I know only one 62 Cadillac styrene model kit in 1:25 and it's from Jo-Han and it's a Fleetwood 4d Hard Top and quite hard to find. I have seen the Fleetwood and a Coupe DeVille in resin and but they are quite expensive if you find one. Palmer appearently did a Convertible in 1:32 scale...but what can I say...it's a Palmer with all that comes with that.

Yes, or solder, easy to bend and hold the shape.

With help from me with measurements and pictures Rico did 1963 Ford poverty caps like I use on my Galaxie 500XL Fastback, I bought a couple of sets from his Shapeways shop and they look great.

Nice builds.

It's the same here as with the Meng GT40 kit, this is a Chinese developed product and Trumpeter like Meng haven't bothered to do the necessary research to get it right. I found the instructions for this kit on line and have looked at them too, and I'm surpriced how simplified this kit is with the scale in mind, I mean in 1:12th scale you can do wonders and if you compare these kits to the Tamiya F1 1:12 scale kits, even the old ones from the 70's, the Tamiya kits are way more detailed and a lot more accurate. I'm glad I don't do many kits in big scales, I don't have room for them, otherwise I would for sure have bought both the Trumpeter and Meng kits as I really like F40's, but I think I would have been disappointed of the lack of accuracy.

A resin spare wheel for the Trumpeter and Magnifier kit (wich are the same kit in different boxes) is available from Renissance TK12/003, and KA Models does a nice upgrade kit KS-00007 for it, a little pricey but nice. The oil cooler can't have an overflow tube, the oil system in the engine is under 60-70 psi pressure made by the oil pump so the oil in the oil coolers has the same pressure as in the oil system in the engine itself and are plumbed to the oil system, the only place there is no oil pressure is in the oil pan and in this case the oil tank as a dry sump system was used in the Mk II GT40's. Here is how it looks on a real GT40 427 engine, it's a two piece thing with an aluminum front cover with gear driven scavenge pump at the bottom and the magnesum oil pan Here is a link to a Magnifier/Trumpeter build here on the forum and if you look around you might find more, you might get some hints from there.

Looks nice so far. But it shows it's a Chinese developed model because it's not that accurate, they did not bother to do the necessary research to get it right so there are lots of things that's weird. I know the Ford FE engine quite well as I'm working on building a new one right now for my 1963½ Ford Galaxie 500XL and it looks like the fuel and oil lines are there just to get the engine compartment to look busy because some of them are going places that dont make much sence. I looked at your pictures of the engine and was kind of intrigued by what they have done and here is a link to the complete instructions https://www.themodellingnews.com/2021/02/build-review-pt-i-ford-gt-40-mkii-1966.html and I have looked at them closely and wonder how they were thinking. First of all the firing order wouldn't work like they have done it, the FE has 15426378 firing order and the distributor arm rotates anti clock wise, the cylinders are numbered counting from the front 1234 on the right side (passenger side on a street car) and 5678 on the left side and if you route the wires like they suggest the engine would fire the whole right bank first and then the left...it doesn't work that way because the 3 and 5 wires has to cross over to the other side of the engine to be right, this will not show much since the distributor is mostly hidden. Step 21 The part No P6 line on top of the engine looks a bit strange because at the rear it goes into the lifter gallery under the intake manifold where the crank case ventilation usually goes on older FE's and it should go to an oil catch tank with a ventilator or something like that, but it looks like they have routed it into the water passage where one of the heater hoses usually goes on a street car, right behind the thermostat housing at the front of the intake manifold...a bit weird. Step 23 The part No P8 fuel line goes down from in front of the carburetor and into the engine block side and one can wonder why because there are nothing there on a real block, the fuel pump are mounted on the drivers side of the timing chain cover just below the water pump on a street car but this one has electric fuel pumps above the left side fuel tank on the bulkhead on the car so that line should go to the fuel pumps and not the block side. Step 24 The P7 lines are also a bit strange, they start at the left side of the engine block side near the rear, they are suppsed to go to the oil coolers wich are one on each side, but I wonder how they were thinking as a couple of the P7 lines goes to a tank behind the drivers head on the bulkhead wich looks to be the expansion overflow tank for the cooling system, on the engine side of the lines there's nothing right there on a real FE block and the only oil outlet to and from the oil gallery is on the left side right behind the timing chain cover at the front of the engine block where the oil filter usually goes on a FE, and there is where they should have started, the GT40 has a dry sump system so it's a bit different from a street car but the oil lines should go from somewhere around there in line with the oil filter. There are some other strange things on the Kar Kraft T44 Trans Axle where one oil line P3d is going to the what looks to be the expansion overflow tank for the cooling system and that can't be right because you definately don't want to mix oil and water. The thing they call fuel tank in Step 42 is not for fuel at all, it's in fact the reservoir tank for the dry sump oil system used on early Mk II's because all Mk II's and Mk IV's has dry sump oil systems and the early Mk II has the oil tank there, the Mk IIB has the oil tank in the engine compartment on the forward left side beside the engine and the Mk IV has the oil tank on the other side near the rear wheel. The fuel tanks are rubber bags inside the side pods on each side of the car and the fuel filler cap is on the right side in front of the drivers door on the outside of the car, some has one filler on each side of the car, so even here they got it wrong.

They could easily have been retrofitted when the tubeless tires became more popular, it's done all the time. The 4070B Transtar II also has ten hole one piece front wheels but the rears are five hole, the 4300 has ten hole wheels all around.

I do remember that car, nice work.

Nice progress. One thing tho', I don't think your routing of the brake lines for the rear brakes is so good going under the axles, above and behind yes but not under where they could easily snag on something, I would let them go inside the frame rail and go down to the brake chambers from there.

The photo above is most likely the 1955 truck, and also shows it's a single drive 281 as the hub on the rearmost axle is not showing because the tag axle hub is smaller than the drive axle hub, and it's clearly visible in other shots in the movie. The cab is earlier and has even smaller windows than the California Hauler "small window" Unilite cab 351 and AITM has the correct cab. I actually watched the movie on youtube last night for the first time in many many years and you can see the mishmash of wheel styles used on the rig, there are even one five hole Alcoa aluminum wheel on the drive axle on the drivers side and another one on the tag axle on the passenger side on the main truck, the rest looks to be different lock ring style steel wheels, all wheels also has different tire treads and wear. Appearently the original 1955 truck was starting to act up from time to time under the filming so the 1960 281 truck was built as a backup if it would break down completely, I believe both of the original trucks had a red luberfiner and the most noticeable difference between them is the air cleaner, there are also some other differences between them. As I have read the third truck wich was a 1964 351 was built for and used in the extended and re-shot scenes for the theatrical 90 minute version (the original was 74 minutes intended for TV), like the extended gas station/laundromat scene, the school bus scene and the railroad crossing scene and it's easy to spot as it has tubeless five hole front wheels, dual drive, different swamp cooler, different air cleaner and a pogo stick, they also used a 1972 Valiant for these scenes as the original 1971 was destroyed with the original truck in the final crash. There was a look-a-like truck built for the Incredible Hulk episode "Never Give a Trucker an Even Break" where some of the Duel footage was re-used, that truck was used for near shots of the actors and was a shorter wheelbase 351 with centerpoint steering and a larger tank trailer. If you are going to do the tank trailer, remember the original movie trailer did not have landing legs, Brad Wike has landing legs on his trailer most likely to be able to uncouple easier, but they were not originally there.

I'm gathering parts to do one myself. The primary truck for most of the outside scenes and the one crashed at the end of the movie is the one most do, a 1955 281 with Cat 1674 engine and a yellow air cleaner from a Cat loader and Page & Page 60/40 single drive tag axle suspension. The backup truck was a 1960 281/351 with Cummins engine and it's still with us owned by Brad Wike, allthough it's changed some with different four leaf suspension dual drive, repowered with a newer Cummins engine and a a Cat air cleaner was put on to more resemble the primary truck. The tank trailer is available from Keystone Aluminum Model Miniatures 3D Printed, I have one and it looks great, AITM also have a kit with the correct cab and hood and most of what you need to do the Duel truck.

Edited

Very nice Ford you have there, good job.

Nice. I-N-Out has very classy trucks and I have seen them on the road on my visits to the west coast of the US (9 times so far)...and I love eating at In-N-Out and do every time I'm there.

It will come back in a few years, don't worry.