Force

For those who don't like to use pre-wired distributors and want to do the spark plug wires themselves in the correct firing order Replicas and Miniatures Co Of Maryland sells drilled resin distributor caps you can use...or you can drill the kit distributor yourself...and use wire of your choice. I prefer to do correct firing orders as I think it's a bit hard to get the right look if you do it random, many part the wires in half on the distributor cap and route the left wires to the left side and the right wires to the right side, but no engine looks like that as 2 wires have to cross over to the other side of the engine for the firing sequence to work. A couple of examples, if you have 15426378 firing order like on most Ford V8's number 3 and 5 wires cross over to the opposite side, and on 18436572 like on Chevys and lots of other engines it's 1 and 6 that change sides. One thing, it doesn't really matter where you start on the distributor cap as long as the sequense is right, because where the number 1 should go depends on how you put the distributor in and it can vary a terminal or two from the theory, so if you are 180 degrees off, you can yank the wires out and put them in correctly in the right order on the cap...or take the distributor out again, turn the engine 180 degrees and put it in right, because when cylinder 1 is at Top Dead Center you must put the number 1 ignition wire to the terminal the rotor arm points at, then the next in the sequence and so on...and remember if the rotor arm turns clockwise or anti clockwise and how the cylinders are numbered...if you get that wrong it will not work. Yes we do models and it doesn't matter much as our engines don't run, but it gets the right look.

I'm sorry but I can't see how a "like button" would encurage younger people to be more involved in this hobby and I don't believe a "like button" will make the forum better in any way, it will just result in less communication as been stated before in this thread, and I think "like buttons" are only for people who are too lazy and "busy" to write a real comment....as if that would take a long time to do. Allmost anonymous "187 likes" but no written comments is not that encuraging for the poster who have taken the time to do the post with pictures and all to show his or her work to all the members here, I would prefer 1 comment what ever it is over the "187 likes" any day. You can call me old and grumpy but that's my standpoint and it will not change any day soon in this matter.

MTU is a German engine manufacturer and MTU stands for Motoren und Turbinen Union Friedrichhafen Gmbh started by Wilhelm Maybach and now owned by Rolls Royce Power Systems. Most of the engines they make are for marine, locomotive and stationary use, they do the engine for the German Leopard 2 tank.

No one said it's a great kit because it isn't, but I wouldn't go so far to call it a lousy kit, of course it's not the ultimate 57 Chevy kit ever made and most of the kits made of the 57 Chevy over the years has their issues and flaws here and there...even the late ones...and none of them are perfect in every aspect. This kit is not up to todays standard but if you consider when it was originally developed...back in 1962-63...it's not that bad because there are a lots of kits there are worse from that time period, and the old AMT kit is for sure buildable and under my over 45 years in this hobby I have built a couple of these with not much hassle as it goes together quite easy. The tooling is quite worn by now as it has been reissued about 20-odd times since it was first issued in 1963 as it has been a popular kit for AMT, so that's expected. I couldn't have said it better myself.

Some goes to relays and some just disappear into the wiring harness and going through connectors in the firewall with a lot of other wires. It's not that easy to explain as you need a bit of basic knowledge about electrical systems and components to know what I'm talking about, so here is a couple of wiring diagrams (the first is for a 66 GTO) where you can follow the colored wires. On the positive side of the coil one wire (yellow) goes to the starter solenoid and one (light pink) goes to the ignition switch inside the car, the negative side (black) goes to the condenser/breaker points inside the distributor. On the starter solenoid one wire (darker pink, purple on the generic diagram at the bottom) goes to the ignition switch start cirquit wich gets power when you turn the key to the start position, and one wire comes from the positive side of the battery (black, this large gauge wire is red on most cars as black from the battery is negative ground showed in green on the diagrams). The alternator has two wires to the alternator relay (white and purple-blue on the generic diagram) and one (red) to the main positive supply at a connection point where several other positive wires go to. Remember most wires are quite small gauge except for battery cables and the high tension ignition wires.

If you are picky about the firewall it should look like this, so the kit is not entirely correct under the hood. But who cares, the AMT kit is not that bad to build anyway.

Well I don't know how the plastic industy works nowadays and what Moebius had to their disposal when they did the test shot of this kit so I can't tell for sure. But as most model companies have done it up to now at least is to cut the tooling in metal and shoot plastic through it, and maybe modify afterwards if needed...but that could have changed.

I also got the email, but still no #84.

It's for the C shaped metal spring clip included in at least the early kits that's supposed to hold the hood and allow it to open...but I don't think anyone uses them.

You passed the test.

Ohh I see, I hope you didn't get offended by my comment because I didn't mean to.

Yes, it's hard to do a pre production test shot without tooling to shoot molten plastic through. So of course it's allready been cut and they have to modify the tooling insert for the body to correct the flaws wich they can do if they want to. I think the 3D print of this kit had better body proportions and the wind shield opening looks a lot better.

Nice diorama and models, I really like the old Trans Am series. I just noticed the stripes on the pictures of the real truck/trailer and cars are yellow, orange and red, and the stripes on your trailer model is yellow, green and red, and the stripes on the car models are yellow, orange and red as on the real cars...I hadn't thought of that before.

Yes it looks like the img tags doesn't work with the new forum software. If you click on the "other media" button below when you type in a reply or when you start a new topic and choose "insert image from URL", copy and paste the url for the picture on your external photo host without img tags in the box you get and click insert into post it will show up, like I did here with Marks picture. But the easiest way is to drag the file you want to show directly from your computer to the box below and drop it there and the picture will be on the forum server, so you don't need an external server to host pictures and hotlink from when you want to show your pictures here.

Kind of like Cadillac Ranch a few miles west of Amarillo Texas on Route 66.

Interesting car, but I don't think I would buy it even if I had 6 Million Dollars left over...for that money you can't ever drive it...and what would the premium on the insurance be if any company dare to insure it

I am the original poster. For the record, I have nothing against old topics, it's not that, I read them myself from time to time...but...I don't reply and with that dig them up to the surface if it's several months or even years since the last reply in the topic was written...and if I do, wich is very rare, it's to add important and useful information to the topic itself. The old topics are here to find for every one and it's for sure a treasure, but I prefer to leave them where they are as topics from down deep are "cold" for most people who has been members here for a long time...otherwise they would not be down there would they...because "hot" topics stay near the surface on the first few pages in the categories regardless of how old they are. Yes every topic you haven't read is "new" to you but for the people who have read them months or years ago they are quite cold and not worth digging up again as at least I have left them allready and moved on...on the other hand, some topics can be worth to reintroduce like if a project that has been sleeping for a while and came back to the bench and being worked on again or something like that, but most aren't. So most of the time I think it's better to start a new topic instead of digging up an old one from several years back where pictures in the thread may not work and are long gone, and the OP and others who has replied to the specific topic might not even be here on the forum anymore...if you want to ask the OP or someone else in a topic from several months or years back a question about something...send a PM to them instead of putting it in a reply wich automatically will lift the old topic from the down deep where it was to the top of the first page in that category. You don't have to agree with me but that's my view of the matter and lets leave it with that.

It's easier to remove the chrome plating than to have to send the parts away to have vacuum chrome plating done and it comes in the box with no extra charge. So I prefer plated parts even if it's wrong because I have the freedom of choice depending on what I'm going to build, I mean if you build a custom car or maybe a lowrider you might want to have these parts plated and if you are building a factory stock just soak the parts for a while in some bleach or Super Clean to remove the plating and undercoat...easy as pie and really not much extra work.

I have not got my copy of issue #208 yet but I hope it will find my mailbox in Sweden soon.

I find "like buttons" you click and it only shows a number of likes because so impersonal and don't show much engagement, it's more like click and forget and don't really show that you care. It's a lot more personal to take the time and really write something in the topic even if it only says like, great, nice or whatever, it shows the topic starter that you personally care a lot more than a "like button" will ever do. But that's me.

Well Round 2 owns the AMT, MPC, Polar Lights and Lindberg Hawk brands now so they can use the correct branding if they want to, the only brand they can't use is ERTL without permission from Tomy.

A "must have" kit indeed.

Exactly my thought. It would look a lot better with that fix like on the AMT 1966 Ford Fairlane kits.

Of course they did, lots of US made cars were sold new over here in Sweden and other parts of Europe, the most notable difference is the kilometer scale on the speedometer/odometer instead of miles since most European countries converted to metric well before the 1960's starting with France 1795, otherwise the cars are pretty much the same as the US couterparts.

Can't go there, Hot Rod is blocked. Due to the EU's Global Data Protection Regulation, our website is currently unavailable to visitors from most European countries. We apologize for this inconvenience and encourage you to visit www.motortrend.com for the latest on new cars, car reviews & news, concept cars and auto show coverage, awards and much more. I can't understand this BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH Motor Trend Group/Discovery Inc are keeping up with, the GDPR was legislated in the EU countries 2016 and the Motor Trend Group websites, except for the Motor Trend site wich I'm not interested in, are the only ones we can't get in to from Europe even now 5 years later, at least not what I have seen so far and I visit lots of US websites.