Force

One thing we can add is that most people calls all cars with the front up in the air Gassers but it's not really so as the class rules was pretty hard on what was required like engine placement, interior, lights, fenders and such, so Gassers were pretty much close to street legal. Cars in the more free Altered class also had the same nose up in the air stance back in the day and many cars people call Gassers are in fact Altereds as they don't comply the rules for the Gas classes.

The car is all done as you see it on the pictures, the class designation can be wrong, I haven't read the rules for SR so I don't know what was required by the rules to run in the class...so you can be right on that. Yes this is the builders Willys race car for the EDRS Pro Street class and he built that from scratch too with an English fiberglass body...a bad one might I add, it's so nice and it was built some years before the Roadster, the president of my car club did the flames and lettering on this car too. The engine in the car now is a blown Arias Hemi on alcohol so it's changed from the picture above when it had a blown Chevy Big Block, he also had to add a rear wing to stabilize the car because it was a thrill to drive at high speeds without it, the wheels are also changed since this picture was taken. The Roadster he built all by himself from scratch so it's for sure not an old "survivor" and was built mostly for fun, but most of the parts are old period stuff he collected for the build, and it has never been raced as far as I know. Here is how the Willys looks today with the wing and new wheels. You're welcome. I don't know if it's the same Mikael but my friends name (the builder) is Mikael and I don't know if he still have it, because I know he had it up for sale a while after he finished it in 2009 and I'm not sure if he sold it, I haven't seen it in many years so I have to ask him next time I see him. Everything is hand lettered with paint and brushes, and some silver leaf and as I said, done by the president of my car club Nailheads Rod & Rebuilt. By the way, Mikael stands at the right behind the car on the first of my pictures with his back towards me in the black shirt with the white print on it. Mikael is an outstanding car builder and has an eye for details and what looks right, he has built many nice cars over the years.

Auslowe has all the parts needed to do the Alaskan Hauler, maybe not cheap but cheaper than getting an original kit on ebay. But on the other hand, if the tooling is still there Round 2 will most likely do that version too, and the tool inserts for the specific parts can't be that worn as I think the Alaskan Hauler version was issued only two or maybe three times and the last time around 40 years ago.

If I understood Tim Ahlborn right he thought the new kit went together even better than the old orignal kit did when he built the pre production test shot model.

I will for sure get at least a couple as I have missed out on the original kit wich was out for only a short period and is very expensive if you find one. The CO4070A Transtar replaced the CO4000 1968-69 and the original CO4070A kit was issued 1973-74, the updated CO4070B Transtar II came 1974 and the tooling was modified to do the newer truck 1975ish...so the CO4070A might have been out on the market only for a couple of years, the CO4070B was out a lot longer and have been reissued once or twice but the tooling for it seems to be lost or didn't come with the other tooling Round 2 first leased then bought from RC2/Tomy. I have two of the CO4070B Transtar II Eagle kits so the CO4070A Transtar would be a nice addition and as I said, I will buy at least two when it comes out.

Looks nice. But you know the engine is wrong for this truck don't you? This is basically the old outdated DS14 V8 from the first 142H kits from the early 80's with a few updated parts to make it look more like an intercooled DSC14, the V-shaped rocker covers are a direct give-away. The newer DC16 engine wich all Scania trucks with V8's after the year 2000 should have looks totally different and has rectangular shaped rocker covers and the only thing the DS14/DSC14 and DC16 has in common is that both are V8's, but Italeri didn't bother to do it right. Unfortunately Italeri like to take shortcuts and I bought lots of Italeri kits back in the 80's and 90's , mostly Scanias and Volvos, but when I discovered the inaccuracies and shortcuts taken with the later kits I got disappointed sold off mostly everything I had as I don't like to build inaccurate models. I can't understand why the aftermarket haven't been all over this and made correct engines and gearboxes for the European truck kits...they do so much else so you can rectify the Italeri kits with suspensions, drive hubs and other stuff...but almost nothing in the engine and gearbox department...I think it's strange and with the 3D printing we have nowadays it's not that hard to do masters of these things if you are familiar with CAD.

I'm not sure who owns it now but I know the guy who built "Bone Shaker" back in 2007-2008, he lives in a town called Piteå 130 miles north of where I live, and the president of my car club did all the lettering , gold flake accents and pinstriping down in our club garage, so I saw it a lot back then. I have some pictures I can share with you.

Very nice.

Yup, that's the reason...Italeri does most of their car and truck models in 1:24th scale like most of the other European and Asian manufacturers.

1970-73 I think and the Co 4070A replaces the CO 4000 and the CO4070B came 1974. Here is an explanation how a two stroke diesel engine operates for those who don't know: As a two-stroke diesel engine that does not use crankcase aspiration cannot naturally draw in combustion air, the blower is inherently necessary to charge the cylinders with air for combustion. The blower also assists in scavenging spent combustion gasses at the end of the power stroke. All Series 71 engines use uniflow scavenging, in which a gear-driven Roots blower mounted to the exterior of the engine provides intake air through cored passages in the engine block and ports in the cylinder walls at slightly greater than atmospheric pressure. The engine exhausts through pushrod-operated poppet valves in the cylinder head(s), with either two or four valves per cylinder. Unit fuel injection is employed, one injector per cylinder, with no high fuel pressure outside of the injector body. The injectors are cycled from the same camshaft responsible for opening the exhaust valves. So the blower doesn't provide boost and they used turbos for that on the forced induction two stroke diesels.

Nice build Mike. But I'm with you on the front being a bit too high, most of the gasser rules had a limit on how high the center of the crank shaft could be from the ground, I think it was about 24 inches or something like that

Nice one indeed. I own a real 1963½ Galaxie 500XL with a 390 and Automatic myself and there are a lot of things that bothers me with this kit, the body proportions of the body looks great but the details has a lot to desire, for instance the convertible interior bucket so the rear panels are wrong, wrong tail light chrome detail and much too thick bezels, molded in headlight detail, missing emblem letters (on the decal sheet in the last issue tho') and some other things.

I'll pass. I allready have two complete Can-Do kits and one Will-Do kit so I'm fine for now.

Cool, a must have since the original CO4970A tooling is long gone.

Ahh perfect, that's a must have and I will get at least a couple...I have two CO4070B Transtar II and I have been looking for an original of this one but they are pricyyy. After what I can see it looks really good.

Yes you can do it as you please Scott, it's your model and with the right wheels and bumper if will be just fine as the other stuff doesn't show without turning it uppside down. If you look up the 1976 Bicentennial interior at least you see what colors it should be, most of the interior panels are diamond tuft in the kit but the interior panels in the bicentennials are flat, speckled beige, red, white and blue.

Nice, I will follow this. Keep in mind that the kit is not entirely correct for the Papa Truck if you want to do it right, except for the wheels the AG 100 rear suspension is wrong as the real truck has torsion bars, the front bumper should be a Peterbilt style bumper and the interior needs some work to be right. The engine is called out to be white in the instructions but I don't think that's right because the real truck is a 1976 Bicentennial edition and Kenworth stopped with white engines after 1975 and all Bicentennial edition trucks I have seen pictures of the engines has manufacturer colors...so I think the 8V-92 should be silver...I have no picture proof of that but that's what I think is most likely based on the research I have done on the subject. But this all depends on how close to the real truck you want your model to be, the suspension and some of the other things are not visible when the model sits on the shelf so do as you please...it's your model after all.

Cool build. I have lots of pictures of "Fast Freddy" Fagerström's truck taken at events here in Sweden. Freddy in action Tierp Arena 2013. Freddy and his son (I think) towing the truck back, Freddys tow car is as cool as the race truck, Tierp 2014 2015 he tried a turbocharged combination because he wanted to run the very fast top speeds the turbocharged cars run, but it only lasted one season and he went back to the old supercharged combination the next season, Tierp Arena. This picture is from 2019, the car suffered a lot of fire and smoke damage in the winter before the season as a litium battery in his shop self combusted and caught fire and could have burned the whole thing down. That didn't stop him and he came back and was race ready when the season started with a lot of help and support from his friends. 2020 was a sad thing as almost all drag racing activity in Europe last season was on hold due to the Covid pandemic.

The spoked rims, wider two piece plastic front tires and two mixer drive options was in the first issue too, the only difference as I understand it is the rear suspension and maybe some slight modifications to the mixer tool to fit the "new" suspension. Tim Ahlborn at the MTDG facebook group said a couple of days ago that AMT deleted the torsion bar suspension and replaced it with walking beam on all Kenworth W925 and K123 kits 1975, and the Challege Mixer kit have only been issued once and it was before the suspension change, the "new" walking beam suspension is in fact is more appropriate for this truck as the torsion bar suspension was for highway use with lower rating and was more light duty than the walking beam. A look at the new upcoming issue with pictures of the mixer parts and instructions for the mixer. https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4090933967602212&set=pcb.3661926207208521 Here are the drive options and the front wheels from the instructions from the first issue from 1971.

It looks like the first issues T-506 (unplated) and T-512 (chrome plated) came out 1970-71 so it has to be there about.

True, it seems like the Revell 70 version is harder to find than the Jo-Han 71 version and the ones I found right now were more expensive at 60-100 dollars, the Jo-Han kit was mostly at 40-80 dollars and a couple at near 100. If you know what to look for the Jo-Han version is not that hard to find as both Jo-Han and Testors issued the kit without the Sox & Martin decals and they are quite plentiful on the market. As for engine colors, Jake King painted all the engines he built for Ronnie and Buddy Ford Engine Blue as a trademark, Jake built most of the engines but not all as they had another mechanic called Dave Christie, so some engines might as well have been Hemi Orange.

I don't remember either, but I don't recall any instructions on top, I think they were on the side or at the bottom together with the decals.

No you don't have to do that, I built the Jo-Han 1971 Sox & Martin 'Cuda years ago without much references, it's one of my best models so far, both the engine and underside is the wrong color on mine too...so it doesn't really matter and you can do it right on the next one...I for sure will when I build my nex one and I have a lot more references now.

Yes, it's sad that this subject havent been done other than the Historic Miniatures and Gunze Sangyo kits...we need more.

Ouch...the only one I don't mind about so far is the Corvette Summer car...I kind of like it.