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Force

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Everything posted by Force

  1. It's a C6 in the Foose truck, so it's a 3 speed. The Roush built engine is an all aluminum FE sideoiler and there aren't many transmissions available that fits to the FE, the old cast iron Cruise-O-Matic, they made a few aluminum C4's with FE bolt pattern, the aluminum C6 and the FMX was also behind FE's, all 3-speed and the C6 is the strongest of them.
  2. Instructions for most of the Revell Germany Semi Truck Kits downloadable in PDF format. https://www.wettringer-modellbauforum.de/forum/index.php?page=Board&boardID=98&s=7ce8874e250b92399cd24209c20f187f712c8540
  3. Most of the Revell instructions are quite good...nothing like the old AMT instructions wich can be "a bit vague" to say the least. Even the instructions for the Revell rebox of Moebius International Pro Star and Lone Star kits are more clear than Moebius own instructions. Here are a couple of examples. The Peterbilt "Can-Do" Wrecker. https://public.fotki.com/modeltrucks25thscale/truckkit_instructions/revell/07541_peterbilt_wrecker/ The "Will-Do" https://www.wettringer-modellbauforum.de/forum/index.php?page=Attachment&attachmentID=308411&h=f41305eece8f22ef8ef20b5f3a222e6d409e9660 The Revell rebox of the Moebis International ProStar. https://public.fotki.com/modeltrucks25thscale/truckkit_instructions/revell/7411-2011-internati/ The LoneStar. https://www.wettringer-modellbauforum.de/forum/index.php?page=Attachment&attachmentID=282871&h=0e6f11ff78122235fb34c4a3685f7f892ac35972
  4. Unfortunately Ford didn't think much when they did their engines and transmissions as most Ford engine familys have different bolt patterns (one for the Flathead, one for the Ford Y-block, one for the Lincoln Y-block, two for the 221-351W, 351C and 5.0 small block and early Modular, two for the MEL, one for the FE, one for the 335 family 351M-400 and 385 family 429-460, and one for the Coyote...all different) so Ford had to do different cases for their transmissions to fit their engines, so the C4 had two different patterns and the C6 had three and so on. As most of the later cars from Ford had the 5.0 the C5 and the AOD can be retrofitted on the 1965 or later 289-351W small block, but you can't fit an AOD or any other modern transmission to a FE, 335 or 385 series without an adapter as none of them were made with a case that fits directly. The engineers at GM and Chevrolet was smarter as all Chevy engines has the same bolt pattern, so you can put whatever transmission you want to any of their engines.
  5. Well said. The Revell Peterbilt Wrecker will probably come out sooner or later as the tooling is still there and usable, so it's just a matter of time. I have two of the Can-Do and one of the Will-Do in my pile and I have all the time in the world to wait for another re-issue, if it comes out again I will most likely buy one more.
  6. Maybe the chassis from the recent Revell 1967 Corvette Convertible or Coupe or the old MPC chassis from the Streaker Vette, Night Stalker, 67 Sting Ray or any other of their C2 kits wich are more detailed than the AMT kit.
  7. It's pretty much like the Mopar guys did, they used the Superbirds and Daytonas on the larger tracks where they needed aerodynamics and the Charger 500 and Roadrunner on the shorter tracks where aerodynamics wasn't that important.
  8. Monogram also did a 69 Torino Talladega also issued under the Revell name, but it's 1:24th scale and a street car.
  9. It depends on how close to the real thing you want your model to be, the real BJ truck has 24.5 inch tubeless wheels and the AMT White Freightliner wheels are 22 inch lock ring style wheels for tube tires and they look different, the rims for tube tires are flat and the rims for tubeless tires has a dip in the center of the rim wich is there so you can put the tire on the rim as the outside diameter of the rim is larger than the inside diameter of the tire bead. But of course it's up to you what you want to use. Here is a picture to explain what I mean. I myself would go for the 22 inch 10-hole wheels Mo'luminum has on his website as they have the right look, the size on them says 22 inches but as they are tubeless style one piece wheels they have to be 24.5 inches and not 22, or one can go the more expensive way and get real aluminum wheels...but the resin wheels are a lot cheaper as you get 10 wheels for the same price as 2 aluminum wheels costs. I don't know why Jamie has marked his tubeless wheels 20 and 22 inches when the sizes of real tubeless wheels are 22.5 and 24.5 inches, maybe it's to tell that the wheels will fit 20 and 22 inch kit tires.
  10. Instructions, box art and much more valuable information for Semi Trucks. https://public.fotki.com/modeltrucks25thscale/
  11. I don't know if it's confirmed or not, I have seen the information regarding a reissue here and on the MTDG facebook group...so it can be wishful thinking for all I know.
  12. It came out very nice., great work.
  13. Looking good.
  14. The original post is from 2013, so they have most likely disappeared since then.
  15. It's a bit more, they went from 20" to 22.5" and from 22" to 24.5" when they migrated from tube tires to tubeless tires, so the difference between tube rims and tubeless rims is 2.5"...but I don't know the reason to why they decided on just those numbers.
  16. I'll do my best to help where I can. As I have been a fan of drag racing almost all my life I have bought most of the drag related kits that has came out since I started building car kits back in the 70's, so I have picked up things here and there over the years. One thing that could have something to do with the lack of more Ford Pro Stock kits was that Bob Glidden who raced Thunderbirds from 1983 to 1988 changed to a Ford Probe for 1989 to the end of his Ford era and he was one of the few still racing Fords, and Revell/Monogram didn't do a kit of that one.
  17. Ford 260-289-302 small block engines is not that hard to find, the AMT 67 Mustang has a nice one that will work and there are more.
  18. Very good information Eric, thanks for your work. It's a very good engine...but...the LS is one of the ugliest engines made and that's why most of them is covered up with plastic panels. Why couldn't GM do a good engine that looks good as well...because if it's good the Hot Rodders will be all over it...but it's hard to do a nice piece of the LS, like Chip Foose say, the engine is "the jewel in the box", so it has to look nice and you don't want to cover it up.
  19. You're welcome. There is lots of automotive knowledge on this board, just ask and you will most likelu get the answer you are looking for.
  20. Funny...the pictures I helped Chris with was pictures of Paul Cox's truck, I found some very good and detailed pictures of the dash panel under restoration of the truck. I had saved them in case I would do a correct Aerodyne dash myself.
  21. It's a long time since the Revell Germany Beall tanker was reissued last, 2005 if I remeber correctly wich is 10 years after the initial release and it has only been reissued once as far as I know. So it can be a bit hard to find for a decent price.
  22. For information, the engine in the Revell K100 is a twin turbo NTC 475, not a 400 wich only has one turbo, so if you leave out one of the turbos you will have a 400...the aftercooler is not the right style but can be modified quite easily. I have helped Chris with some references for the dash, some views he didn't have, so it's a World wide operation. I also want to see a correct Aerodyne dash as none of the K100 Aerodyne kits has one, all are wrong.
  23. The AMT Freightliner wheels are 22 inch split rims with a lock ring for tube tires so they wouldn't be right as the inside of the rim is flat all the way from the inside and out, wheels for 22.5 and 24.5 inch tubeless tires has a depression in the middle of the rim and no lock ring, so the Freightliner wheels wouldn't look right if you are picky. I think I would go for 22.5 inch wheels in 1:24th scale wich should be close to 24.5 inch in 1:25th scale. it's not easy to find wheels with the right look and decent scale size as most of the wheels in kits are not that good and haven't got the right look, so aftermarket is most likely the only way to go. I would like to see correct good looking 22 inch split rim front wheels for my Movin' On and Smokey and the Bandit truck projects still in the planning stage waiting for the right parts, nothing is available in resin and none of the kit wheel has the right look. I might have to contact Doug Wagner at Keystone and hear if he would like to do a set or two for me, he has good looking machined aluminum 5 hole split rims in a couple of sizes but no 10 hole other than tubeless tire style.
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