Force

I worked for a friend of mine repairing and rebuilding radiators with new cores for some years a while ago and a common missunderstanding is that an aluminum radiator is more efficient than a copper/brass radiator, that's not really the case, the advantages with aluminum is that it's cheaper and lighter than copper/brass, otherwise it doesn't matter much and both will work fine. People often compare an old clogged up OEM radiator with a new aluminum one and of course the aluminum radiator is better then, but if they had re-cored the old OEM radiator it would have worked at least as good. I'm going to re-do my radiator for my 1963½ Galaxie and I'm going to use a copper/brass core with more rows and tighter spacing and use the original tanks to cool the 445 stroker engine I'm building for it, because I don't like the look of aluminum radiators.

Yes, Scalemates is a good site but has lots of inaccuracies as Rob says and you can't trust everything you read there. I have been thinking of letting them know what wrong things I have seen so far but I have seen so much so it's a huge job, so I haven't.

Yes, if the doors overlap it doesn't matter so much where the espagnolette locks are, I have seen the ones in the pics above, one on each door, two on each door and two on one door and one on the other, so it's up to the manufacturer where they put them.

The only thing I react to after this upgrade is that the loading of the pictures are quite slow so you have to wait for the to load.

You don't see many Model T rods at car meets nowadays. A Model T hot rod is quite easy and cheap to build but it seems like the later 28-31 Model A and 32-34 are more popular subjects, maybe because they are more useful and has better comfort and ride...I don't know. But a cool Model T hot rod is allright i my eyes.

Nice. There wasn't even a class called Pro Mod back then, these race cars came before that.

The current International Prostar and Lonestar has the Cummins X15 wich came in 2017 and are available in two versions, Efficiency and Performance series, the ISX15 wich replaced the N14 in 2001 originally called the "Signature" series and later ISX is an older version of the current X15 and the X15 looks slightly different from the ISX, and I think the A & N Red engine in fact is an ISX as it has the older valve cover and front cover and no X15 markings.

Most Older Ford V8's like the small block 260-302, the FE series 332-428 and the 385 series 429-460 has this 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order. The 351 Windsor and the 335 series 351 Cleveland, 351M and 400 has a different firing order, 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. And finally the Flatheads and Y-block has 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2...and Ford has the cylinders numbered 1234 on the passenger side and 5678 och the drivers side on all of their V8's.

Very nice.

The Lindberg Petty 64 Plymouth kit is a NASCAR race car so if it have anything else than a Hemi and a 4-speed wich was what they raced with it would be wrong, so of course it has that combination. The interior side panels comes two sided, one side with the stock interior pattern and one side is flat with window cranks only...they have to be removed tho' as I don't think a NASCAR race car had them, it also comes with a roll cage and no rear seat. The rear axle is not right either as I believe they used 8 3/4 inch rear ends on Mopar NASCAR cars.

Even if the MPC tooling dates back to 1964 the chassis is a lot better and more detailed than the AMT 1963 or Revell 1963 snap chassis, and the MPC kits has a small block.

I have tried dull coat on plated parts and they do look more like unppolished aluminum as the shine is knocked off.

Nice, the front axle coule have been slightly shorter to get the correct look as the wheels could be a bit further in, but I love the center point steering. I have to get me some of the Keystone Aluminum wheels, they look awsome.

Very nice Gerald.

Well it's basically two 8V-71 engines put together so it is long, and in this case it comes from a mining rock truck so size doesn't matter much.

Very nice Gerald.

I wish Tom a happy retirement, I used to get most of my stuff from him until he closed Hobby Heaven and was stopping selling new kits, and I went over to a guy he recommended to me to get my kits, Tom started to sell new kits again after that but I was happy where I was so I stayed with the other guy as he had pretty much the same service. I don't really like the development the hobby has taken the last year or two, it feels like it's diminishing with all that's happened over that time and I hope it will turn around soon, but if it doesn't I have enough kits to last me a couple of lifetimes.

I also got the email, I have been a subscriber of SA(E) since 1995 but was kind of surprised they would close up shop so soon, I have subscribed to a lot of magazines but most of them has stopped publication, some has gone over to digital but I'm not interested in that, not to pay for it anyway as I can get most of the information I need for free, and some has been replaced with other publications that I'm not that interested in so I have stopped completely. So if I don't get a paper copy of the magazine I'm interested in I woun't get it at all...but that's me, and magazines to subscribe to is getting fewer and fewer and I don't like that development as I like to hold the magazine in my hands and read it...not on a computer screen or some other device.

Looking good.

If you look closely and compare the pictures the wheel opening has been moved upwards some on the real car and that was appearently quite common back in the day as I have seen it on more cars from that era. It's a little late to do on your model now tho'.

I have two of the Can-Do and one Will-Do and that's enough for me and I wouldn't pay these amounts for any kit. I did not pay near as much for any of my kits, the first I got several years ago and I don't remember exactly what I paid and I got the last of my Can-Do kits last year, I think I paid somewhere around equivilant to $65-70 or something like that for it and someting similar for the first one, the Will-Do I ordered from Model Roundup when it was last issued and it was also somewhere in that price range. So I have three of these kits for half the price they ask on ebay for one. I think it's sick, it's only a plastic model kit, not gold, the price depends on the market so whatever they put in as the asking price is the kit is not worth more that the buyers are prepaired to pay.

That was not my thought at all, Tomy themselves might not see a market but if Round2 did they might have tried to do something about it if they wanted to...but it's a slim chance of that as the target group who want these agricultural model kits are most likely too small so that will most likely not happen. Anyway, lets leave it at that.

Yes I know that, but if Round2 could lease from RC2 they could for sure do a deal with Tomy if they wanted to, not that I see that happen since the farm stuff is quite narrow and not worth the licensing, but it would be nice to have them back again.

These kits are demanding to say the least and hard to put together, most if not all of the bodies of the Polar Lights Talladega and Cyclone kits has this upturn of the front fenders but it can be fixed with some minor sugery, do a relief cut to the "sheet metal" inside the fender towards the firewall on both sides and carefully bend the front down under warm water to get the fenders to the right position, after that you have to reshape the wheel well at the front some, a quite easy fix that will do wonders for the end result.

Very nice! We are here to help eachother and if I can I will, and you needed the wing more than me so you are welcome to it.