fatkidd

As far as I can tell, the color is a Burgundy...its a tricky color to photograph.

thanks...in the sun, the green is awesome. thanks for all the comments, guys.

This is the Fujimi Koenig Special 911 Bi-Turbo kit. The kit went together with no issues. Fun kit to build...although it is a curbside. It was built box stock. The interior is paitned with Tamiya Dark Yellow (XF-60) and the exterior color is a newer Porsche color. The tail lights were done using a red and orange Sharpie marker on the inside and BMF was applied underneath. Thanks for looking...

This looks awesome! When I saw the first picture, I honestly thought it was the box top...with the tamiya logo & such. I want to hop in this thing and cruise around for a weekend or 3

thanks for the kind word, folks. by the way...the colors are HOK black basecoat and HOK Limetime Pearl basecoat.

I like it the way it is. I have a soft spot for wagons and I thinked you nailed it with this one.

This was built back in March for the Billetproof show at Don Garlits' Museum of Drag Racing. I'm a slacker and haven't taken pictures of it. It isn't anything special...curbside with an odd paint scheme. The paint scheme came to be as a result of some late night brainstorming for the theme of the show, which was "luck of the Irish". So, I figured why not do a 2 tone with the seperation being the silouhette of a shamrock. There are small shamrocks ghosted in the green, but I couldn't get them to show up. The shamrock on the back is slightly ghosted and is 3 or 4 different pearls mixed in some HOK SG100. Thanks for looking...enjoy.

the sg100 will act as somewhat of a "barrier" and would allow tapeouts (masking for graphics) without the inherent risk of marring or removing the underlying paint. I personally use the stuff quite a lot. I wouldn't go with too many coats of the sg100...maybe 2. I believe that HOK recommends no more than 4 coats. As doc stated, you can use it to help reduce the edge that would be left from the paint build up on the "line". And, if you are going to leave it for more than 4 hours after sg100, you'll need to LIGHTLY scuff with a fine scotchbrite pad before any recoating takes place. When removing the tape, be sure that you have alowed ample flash time (time to allow the solvents to evaporate off). But, if it is Shimrin2, it would be waterborn and a little different. You might want to check the tech sheets for the Shimrin2 line and see what they recommend for flash times. I believe that you could use a hair dryer to accelerate the flash time, but don't quote me on that. here's a link to the HOK tech sheets... http://houseofkolor.com/PDF/TechData/English/HOKTechManual.pdf page 19 is where they discuss S2-SG100. Hopefully, I have helped you and not confused you more. There are a few HOK "Experts" here on the forum and one of them may chime in to assist...I'm just giving you a little help and advice that I have learned over the years.

just because you have ot seen them does not mean that they do not exist. school bus seats were/are vinyl and had an almost glossy sheen...close enough to call them gloss. they also make a colorless/clear vinyl that can be fashined into seat covers, floor mats, etc.

why not do a combination of flat and gloss? or use some dullcoat? maybe do the tops and backs of the seats gloss with the centers flat, the door panels flat with gloss inserts, gloss dash, flat sterring wheel with gloss center, and maybe throw a few spots of white here and there. just some thoughs

If you haven't already done so, I would pick up some HOK Reducer. And depending upon where in the good ole USA you live would depend on the reducer "temp" that you would get. I live in Central Florida and it is primarily warm (read:hot) and humid most of the year. I use RU311 (its their "medium temp"). Anyways...you may need to reduce those bottles that you have in the picture just a bit more. I have a bottle of Tangelo Pearl, Majic Blue Pearl, and Limetime Pearl and each one of them needed to be reduced some more. At least for me such was the case. Glad that I was able to help...I've learned by trial and error in the 1:1 world and its an expensive trial and error.

With House of Kolor Urethanes (which is what you have in those bottles) should be applied in light to medium coats with approximately 5-15 minutes "flash time" (allowing paint to flash dry to a dull finish) between coats. 1st coat should be a light "guide coat"...you still should see base color or primer color showing through. 2nd coat should be a little "heavier" than the 1st. Full coverage can be obtained in 2 - 3 coats. If you are doing graphics, two-tones, etc., you should spray the SG100 over the basecoat to protect it from the dreaded "peel away" (when the tape brings paint with it). SG100 is NOT a final clear! If you are not doing graphics, two-tones, etc., there is no need for the SG100. As far as clear goes, I have used several different clears. I've used DuPont, HOK, Nason, PPG, etc. I have not used the spray bomb clear that Dr. Cranky uses, but I'm sure it sprays and looks killer. After all, it is DuPont. haha The clear that I have been using lately is Nason SelectClear. It costs about $40 or so (that's a quart of clear and a pint of activator/hardener). If you don't want to get into the wonderful world of 2 part clears, I would suggest trying Dr. Cranky's choice. But be warned...that can is probably close to $20. Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you too much more. If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask or PM me. And for your reading pleasure...I present the MSDS for HOK... http://houseofkolor....KTechManual.pdf

you could make them yourself... just take the very same "insulation" that you would use for straight boots, cut it at a 45* angle, slide one piece of the boot onto the wire, bend a 90* on the end of your "plug wire", slide the other piece of boot onto the wire and add a small dab of glue. may not be the best idea, but it works. here's a pic of one's that i did on a GTX. I'll admit that they look a bit "hokey", but that was the first time that I did them. Hope this helps

Thanks for the replies, guys. I decided to spray some into a pint sized mixing cup and waited until there were no bubbles in it...about 10 minutes (Valspar Enamel Clear). I then dumped that into the Iwata Revolution HP-CR and sprayed it onto my surface. I'm not 100% sure of the p.s.i. that I sprayed at, but it layed out rather nicely. I did get a little bit of fogging/dry spray. After a 24 hour dry time (air dry in the garage and outside in the shade), what fogging that appears was wiped away with a qtip.

thank you, sir. I'll try that and see what happens.

As the title states, I have a question regarding decanting. I have the basic "how-to" down, but my question is... Is there a "rule of thumb" for the time to let the propelant evaporate? I"m going to spray some into a pint sized mixing cup, but was unsure how long to wait before shooting it through the airbrush. Thanks in advance for any and all help. Happy Building, Fatkidd

greg, thanks for the photos. i was not aware of those kits. silvester, I don't need a specific year and i will look into one of those kits. I was trying to find a modern F1 Honda engine, but it looks like I'm outta luck thanks for the help folks...it is appreciated

thank you sir. I guess I'll have to can my idea. Oh well.

Did they ever make a 1/24 Honda F1 car? I'm really just looking for a honda F1 V8 engine, transmission, and correspondong running gear. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I would be grateful.

Geesh...give a guy a chance to upload pictures. haha I had a great time. There were a lot of models and the 1:1 show was nice as well. I am partial to the shinier cars, but I did like a few of the non-shiny ones. enough of me babbling...on with the pics... http://s19.photobuck...20model%20show/

Thanks. Yes, the tires a P-Zeros...Fronts are 245/40ZR17 & the rears are 335/35ZR17 As far as the rims...they do look like BBS whels, but it does not say in the kit (they are the kit supplied wheels and tires).

Great tutorial, Jim. One question...why does it look so much easier when you do it? haha

Thanks for the comments guys. I was afraid that the black interior would get lost. Hopefully this one will be done today or tomorrow.

thanks for the comments, fellas. hopefully I will have this thing complete today or tomorrow. Bart - I will remember the idea of doing the lip on the next set...I don't want to mess these up. haha And the engine goes together rather well. The only issue that I had was the getting the radiator hose to fit between the radiator and the block.

looks good, Jim. I bet the 3 together look terrific...maybe build one of your sweet display cases to hold all 3.