fatkidd

Does anyone know if anyone out there in model world sells a modern gravity style spray gun? Thanks to Imcrazyjim, I know where I can get a siphon feed spray gun. I was also wondering if anyone makes & sells scale airbrushes. I know that both requests may be a long shot, but its worth a try. thanks in advance, Fatkidd

I use all House of Kolor products for the paint and kandies that I use and I use Nason SelectClear 2 part urethane clear on all of my builds. I don't use many decals, but for the ones that I do use, I let them dry for 24-48 hours before I spray clear over them. This should prevent any water coming back to haunt you. here's a couple examples...

I have looked at this several times since you posted it and I keep coming back to it. It is wonderfully done. I think that you did a very clean, tasteful take on this kit. Nicely done.

I really like the panel work. And that you carried it out on the chassis is superb! Great job, sir

Looks good, Jim. There is a bit of a learning curve with the 2part clear, but we"ll getcha taken care of. I like the color combo on this one

I see that you said that you want this on a model of a derby car...is it safe to assume that it will be 1/24 or 1/25? To achieve the look that you are after, there are a couple of ways to tackle this... 1) cut out a butt load of the leaf pattern and stick those on the car and paint away. wait until paint dries, peel leaf patterns off and there ya go. 2) cut out a single leaf and use that as your moveable stencil. Spray through it and you have your leaf...repeat as desired. The 2nd option won't give you the "sprayed over a leaf" look like the reference pictures you provided, but would be easier in the long run. If I have confused you more, feel free to PM me and we'll take it from there. Or PM me and we can make arrangements. HTH

I use cotton gloves on final assembly. The trick is to caress or gently hold the model. Don't hold it with a death grip and you"ll be less likely to drop it. I got mine from a funeral home. I asked nicely while there for my grandmother's funeral (R.I.P. Nunnie) and they gave me a couple of pair. Wouldn't you worry about the aluminum foil scratching that Shiny surface that you just polished out or ruining the patina (read: fauxtina) that you spent hours getting "just right"?

I have never tried to make one, but I would suggest doing a image search and decide what brand/style you are wanting to emmulate. Once you have established that, study the basic shape and take a trip tp Michael's, Hobby Lobby, JoAnn Fabrics, a bead store and see if you can find a bead that has the same basic shape and modify it as needed. The flanges and whatnot could be scratched with sheet styrene. Just a thought

It is looking good so far. imcrazyjim also has some race style seats that might interest you.

Rob, I have some of the Martha Stewart flocking and I love it. What I do is: paint area to be flocked a color close to the flocking, use glue of your choice (I use spray glue ie 3M super 77), strain flocking onto subject, let glue dry (with the spray glue, its relatively quick), dump off excess, repeat process. I do it twice as it seems to work a little better for me. I have noticed that a single application just doesn't quite do what one would hope. Hope this helps

I like it. It is well executed and the paint work is cleanly done. Kudos to you

And we barely scratched the surface on the fun to be had with an airbrush...I'm glad I could help. The paint work on this is well done. And the fade is top notch. Practice paid off, sir!

It sounds like it sat too long and when you are spraying it, it is essentially drying in mid-air. My suggestion would be to cut down on your wait time after decanting it. The few times that I have used spray bomb clear and decanted it, I only let it sit for a short while. Some suggest to decant it and spray it right away while others say to let it "breathe" before you spray it. The best suggestion that I was given was to decant it and wait until the container that you decant into no longer feels cold. Hope this helps.

I like this one, sir. Yet another one to add to the SHINY hall of Fame. SHINY RULES!!!

I'm using a Canon Digital Rebel XTI. It is a digital SLR camera and I have 2 different lenses for it. As far as getting the pictures from the camera to the computer, I hook the Usb cable to the camera, hook it to the computer, turn on the camera, and then cut and paste the pictures from the camera to a folder that I have created on the computer. If there is any editing that I want to do, I will open the picture in Photoshop and go from there. Hope this helps.

my current one is a golf club that i painted blue fire on for my dad a few years a go as a father's day present

I take 2 paint stirring sticks, a lighter (or round object used for a pivot), a couple of rubber bands, some tape and use this contraption... The tape is wound around the stir stick so that the adhesive side is facing out. Just slide the pivot and rubber band to where you need it for proper fitment inside the body. Between the adhesive of the tape and the friction of the stir sticks, the body is held on. I use this method everytime that I paint a body and have had no issues with it. I change the tape as needed. And, when you are done spraying, you can hang the body upside down and reduce the risk of dust settling onto the surface. here's what it looks like with a body on it.

As far as I can tell, the actual paint code for Synergy Green Metallic is WA708S/GHS. You should be able to take that code to any automiotive paint supplier and get a small amount mixed up.

thanks for that link...it gives me good reference for a trailer for this thing.

jbwelda - i tried to do a google search but had no luck. hotrod59f100 - I looked on the inside of the hull and deck pieces and there are no markings anywhere. jantrix - I have no idea what scale it is. The boat measures 5 1/2" long and just under 2 1/2" wide. I haven't put any thought into a paint scheme, but i probably will do something odd with it.

I purchased this boat at a local swap meet for $1. I figured for a buck, I'll do something with it. The top and bottom of the hull are 2 separate pieces (held together with small pieces of tape in the picture), a seat, a steering wheel (not sure if its the correct one but the molded orange color seems to match), and the outboard is 2 separate pieces ( again, held together with small pieces of tape in the picture). My question is...where would i find info on it? What kit did it come in? Were there decals for the boat? What am I missing(besides the prop)? any and all help is greatly appreciated. on with some pictures...

here's what i found for 1971 Chevy & GMC Pickups... http://www.tcpglobal...ttruck-pg01.jpg at least with a paint code, you could either do as BKcustoms suggested and go to an auto body supplier or you might get lucky and find the color in a touch-up at an auto parts store. If you go with the auto body supplier, most can/will mix you an half pint (usually the smallest amount they will custom mix) and you could have them reduce it for you...at an additional fee. I would suggest having them mix it at 1:1 (some are 2:1, depending on the manufacturer), but 1:1 will be fine...it'll just take a few more coats

everything about this screams, "Let's go to the beach!". Very nicely executed...the colors, the interior, this thing is sweet.

That thing is BITCHIN!!!!! It looks outstanding. the green and white are perfect together. This is one to be proud of...and it looks right at home on the diorama. cobraman, I couldn't agree more. I have built 2 of them so far and I am working on a 3rd one.

that turned out nice. what kit is it?