fatkidd

Built box stock. Went together fairly well...it takes a bit to get the body and the chassis to line up just right (at least mine was). Fun kit to build....just wanted to do a "fun" build Interior is Tamiya Semi Gloss Black (X-18) and kit supplied decals Exterior is DuPont Chromabase (its some left over red I had mixed for me a few years ago) over Dupicolor white sandable primer with Nason SelectClear 2 part I still have to poilish out the body and do final assembly. I sprayed the kit supplied wheels with dullcoat. A few days later, i took my fingernail and carfully scraped the dull coat off of the chrome so it has a chrome "stripe" on the spokes. Thanks for looking As always, comments/critiques are welcome.

This is my version of this kit. It is the Fujimi Koenig Specials 911 Bi-turbo. It is built box stock...askew from a the exterior and interior colors. The interior is painted with Tamiya Dark Yellow (XF-60) and a few details painted Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black (X-18) and a little "wash" of Tamiya Smoke (X-19) on the a/c vents. Kit supplied decals were used for the gauges and the radio. The exterior is Glasurit basecoat (factory Porsche color with a little extra pearl added) with Nason SelectClear 2 Part. I have not polished it out yet...there's a few dust specks here and there. I just wanted to see a mock up with the color choices together. I like it! And I hope others do as well. Thanks for looking. And as always, comments/critiques are welcome.

Thank you, good sir.

As the title states, I have a question regarding this kit...mainly to someone that has assembled it before. I want to do this kit as a slammer and wanted to glue the hatchback closed... My question is: Can you glue the hatch closed and still install the tail light refectors and lenses? Thanks in advance for any help, Fatkidd

Rat Rod, in their truest form WERE built from what was available and what one could afford. Today's so called rat rods are nothing more than purpose built show cars. What I mean by that is that I have seen some people put just as much money into their "rat rod" as someone who builds a Hot Rod. To me, that makes absolutely no sense. Why would someone spend that much time, effort, and money into something that looks like a group of kindergarten students put together is beyond me. Don't get me wrong, I love traditional rat rods. I admire the technical prowess that is involved in getting things that should have never gone together to fit like they were meant that way. But today's trendy rat rods should not be even remotely classified in with traditional. Hot Rodding is supposed to evolve and perpetuate the "sport" of car modifications. As was stated earlier in this thread, most of them look like they can barely move. And if they did try to move, how many parts would fall off?

the real trick is to use the scotchbrite while the paint is still "wet", if you have a spare hood or any part...try it on that first. let us know if you have any other questions...there are plenty of people to help

a very simple way is to use a scotchbrite pad before and after painting...take the scothbrite pad and use it like sand paper. in the case of a bumper, i would scotchbrite from right to left of the bumper itself, paint it with a non-metallic silver (ie: tamiya flat auminum or the like), as soon as you get done painting said part, drag the scotchbrite pad through the paint (lightly and in the same direction as before) but try not to go back and forth. hope this helps Happy Building

There is a HobbyTown on Dale Mabry in Tampa Other than that, you'll want to travel to Pinellas county. There's 3 decent shops... Phil's Hobby Shop (r/c, models, supplies) (727) 545-1251 6050 Park Blvd Pinellas Park, FL 33781 Ralph's Hobbies (models, some scratch building supplies) (727) 547-8607 5208 66th St N, #D St Petersburg, FL 33709 House of Hobbies (little bit of everything hobby related) (727) 447-3305 37700 US Hwy 19 N Palm Harbor, FL 34684 That's all that I know of in the area. There are a couple train stores, but not a lot else. Hope this helps

if I'm not mistaken, the Alsa Killer Cans are actually a 2 part system. They have the hardner/activator inside that can and you activate it to use the can properly. Once you have activated it, you have to use it before it "kicks". As it comes, it is a one time use. But, you can either send the can back or purchase the filler station for them. Either way, it is too expensive for me. You have to have a painted and cleared black basecoat for the chrome to go over. The House of Kolor Chrome is pretty much the same with one slight difference...the HOK chrome can be applied over any color basecoat. At least that is what I was told by John Kosmoski himself. Basically what you do is spray your basecoat (we'll say black for arguments sake), clear it, wetsand and polish (if needed), apply chrome, apply clear. Remember, ANY imperfection on any of the layers will be magnified with the chrome application. Just a few thoughts and my 2 cents. Happy Building, Fatkidd

There are some inspiring mercs in here, that's for sure. I'll throw the 2 that i did in the ring as well...

Thor, I use House of Kolor automotive urethanes. The colors that I use for the fire are: Moly Orange, Chrome Yellow, White, Kandy Apple Red, Kandy Tangerine, Kandy Pagan Gold, and a little bit of Passion Purple Pearl (for the glow around the fire). As far as stencils go, if you can get a hold of some x-ray film (i know that everything is going digital & therefore tough to find), you can cut your own shapes for stencils. I don't suppose that there is a Wal-mart in Norway, but maybe you have a store that is close. Anyway, at Wal-mart in the craft section, they carry small (8"x10") sheets of mylar. They come in a 3 pack and are perfect for cutting stencils from. Both the x-ray film & the mylar sheets should be solvent proof. There is nothing worse than spending time & effort to cut out some cool stencils, only to have them wrinkle up or, worse, dissolve. One of the biggest suggestions that I can give is to make sure that you have PLENTY of reference photos to look at every once in a while. It will help tremendously. You can use the reference photos for creating your stencil shapes. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

Happy Birthday, Jim. May your cake be SHINY (SHINY RULES!!!) and your candles House of Kolor Kandies

I say, "go for it".

Here's a few more of it, if Ken doesn't mind, that I took at a show.

this really needs to be seen in person to really appreciate the work & craftsmanship that went into it. I stared at it for quite a while the 1st time that I saw it. I still do double takes when I look at pictures of it.

Thor, First off, let me say that is a great result for a first timer. If I may add a few suggestions (and I am no pro at it), on the van, try to use the stencil a little less. while the look is cool (reminds me of a background for graffitti lettering), if you do a little more free hand you will be amazed. on the vette with red as a base, you could either build up as you have or you could fog some over reduced black where you want the fire to be (think of soot coming off of fire). I really like the hood, I think you did great on it. Also, try to build it up with more "layers" instead of trying to do it in as few steps as possible. Think of it as if you were painting the entire body one color...you build the "layers" to achieve the result that you wanted. Take the same approach to the fire. Again, I'm no pro and I'm merely trying to help. Here's a few examples of some real fire that i've done. dodge ram vts a 1:1 suzuki gsxr600 blue fire on a golf club

thank you very much for that info. Someone gave me a few of those somewhere along the way and i never knew what they were called so that I could look for me. So, Thank you!

thanks for sharing this wonderful tip. now, I have to dig through my stash to find a set of wheels that need this treatment. Haha. Does anyone know if urethanes (ie House of Kolor) will have the same effect as laquer?

jim, you may go ahead and do a tutrial for it...i'm not too swift at the explanaion sometimes.

like jim said, telephone wire is great for the boots. any dollar store should have some...or keep an eye out for the telephone guy. (do they even exist anymore?) ethernet cable maoght work, but might be harder to comeby. if you see a cable/internet installer in your area, ask him if he has a small piece of ethernet cable (rj45 or cat5, i believe).

Jim, Thank you for all of the nice words regarding the paint. however, all that I did was offer some advice and a few tips...you did the execution on the paint and it is marvelous. nice and SHINY!!!

lookin' good Gregg. the tail lights are on their merry way to you.

Jim, This thing turned out awesome! The fade is spot on and the grille gives it its own attitude. Great job, my friend.

i had the same thing happen with an amt snapfast dodge dually that was molded in red...everything was going well until i sprayed white primer on it to check a few things and it turned pink. what you'll need to do is use a primer sealer. I've heard of some guys using future as a sealer but have not personally done it. i went as far as reshooting black primer on it and clearing it just to make sure...but the primer sealer should alleviate you of the red bleeding through. hope this help. happy building

this thing is awesome! and congrats on 3rd place