peekay

Absolutely first class detailing and weathering, no area looks under- or overdone.

Fantastic! (You started it on the 9th, today's the 15th. Did you sleep or eat in that time?)

I was there! .....but later - 1982 in Todd Rundgren's barn studio with my brother's NY-based band, The Drongos. 3 feet of snow outside.

They would stand out anywhere! Well done.

Josh sure has good taste!

So New Zealand beat America in the per capita score. (Notice I didn't say "beat the ###### out of" - that would sound boastful and arrogant).

As I keep saying, I was born in New Zealand but have lived exactly half my life, the last 31 years, in Switzerland. At home we speak a mix of (Swiss) German and English, often mixing the two up mid-sentence. I read the other day that the area I live in, kanton Zürich, has more classic cars per pop. than anywhere else in the world.

Fantastic! That's at least as realistic as any of the photo-realists' paintings - but in 3D. Sorry, can't make it but wish you well.

Thanks for the input Tony but this doesn't apply as I'm using Zero acrylic colour coats.

Beautiful!!! Really lives up to your screen name.

Thanks Danny. That's similar to what I do but with a few differences that I'll try next time.

Wash with soapy water, lightly wet sand again, wash, rinse, dry thoroughly, primer.

BTW I'm assuming you realise that the base coat then needs a clear gloss coat.

Good information above. I've been using Zero base coats for a while and I also have a suggestion. Zero suggests 2-3 coats, 5 minutes apart but I also got a rough texture doing it that way. I thin the paint at least 20% at the outset (I use their Basecoat Thinner) and apply it in many VERY light coats. Resist the temptation to go over an area again for better coverage! Wait 2-3 hours, add another coat and so on until you have even coverage. At this point I check the surface and if it's not completely smooth I sand very carefully with a Micro Mesh 4000 cloth, wash the model and dry it thoroughly with the airbrush. I then thin the paint even more and add another one or two coats. I might typically take two days to get the colour coat on with this method but it will be a lot smoother.

Thanks David. I do warm the can first and I've also had the bottom pop out once, as you describe.

Thanks for the tip with the hairdryer Dimebolt.

One of the nicest 62s I've seen.

I use Tamiya semi-gloss clear on chrome parts if I want a more steel/aluminium look. It makes a subtle but convincing difference. Might be just what you need here. Delicate pieces need light coats. BTW their matt clear over chrome wires is the best and easiest way to make them look like they've been painted silver. If it's a one piece wheel that needs black detailing for depth, do that first.

Are these tapes flexible? I have 1.64th" tapes from Letraline but you can't bend them to go round a corner.

Again, fantastic job! I'm almost ashamed to say I once owned a DAF like this but a 2 door saloon with that strange conical auto gearbox. I wouldn't have fancied my chances in a rally.

Like all your models in this section - fantastic!!!!

Found plenty of tips about Tamiya gloss colour sprays but very little about their clear. I've experimented quite a bit but it always drys to a fine orange peel surface. I then sand and polish and end up with an acceptable result but I'm wondering if someone has a few tips about getting this stuff to go on smoother? BTW, I'm using it over Zero acrylic colour coats, which are semi matt but very smooth.

Looks like a well deserved win and thanks for the show show coverage.

Always appreciate your show coverage. And thanks for the pointer in the General section.

Trying to remember if I ever had a model that DID want to go together. Or some paint that wanted to get onto the model. Models and paint don't mind being bought and taken home, even opened, but that's it! Any attempt to further disturb them puts them in a very bad mood.