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lordairgtar

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Everything posted by lordairgtar

  1. lordairgtar
    For real. My friend had one, a 400 cc one lunger. A real torquey bike. I had a 250 Montessa Cota set up for ISDT type events and we had in our group a bunch of Suzuki RM250s, a Honda 250, a CZ 250.
  2. lordairgtar
    Yes, Foxy Vette had Monza tail lamps, not Camaro.
  3. lordairgtar
    yes please
  4. lordairgtar
    Defo need these.
  5. lordairgtar
    Reading this and I am working on the same kit. I think imma gonna just quietly place mine back in the box.
  6. lordairgtar
    Your glass turned out beautifully.
  7. lordairgtar
    Nice.
  8. lordairgtar
    Stuffing a six cylinder into a Bronco kit.
  9. lordairgtar
    There is an alternative ink from Flysea. Very similar to Molotow but has a more durable finish. I could handle it after a couple of hours without dulling.
  10. lordairgtar
    Yes, atleast doing the grille and tail lamps. The rest I can scratch build. I'm surprised that someone hasn't offered the bits as a conversion kit. Not many want it I suppose but I certainly do
  11. lordairgtar
    Some might not like the fact that the 68 GTO will be a curbside. It is easy enough to open up that hood and graft a Chevelle engine bay to it.
  12. lordairgtar
    Royal is a good mid range brush brand. You might have to talk to the art guy at the store to find what he recommends. I am just speaking with my own experience. Most of my model work is done with Tamiya sprays and bottle paints. They work well for me. Their Acrylics aren't bad. As far as a thinner for Testors, I've used a couple drops of enamel thinner, any brand would work. Remember that Testor's yellow is sort of transparent and the underlying color will show through. I've never tried a brush on primer. I always use a spray. I like Plasti-cote or Duplicolor. I had some success with NAPA's primer. Tamiya has very good spray primers in different colors.
  13. lordairgtar
    Also use a very high quality brush. Cheaper brushes will leave streaks. I would not use the Testor enamel paint from those little bottles. It's rather thick and will not flow right. An enamal retarder 'might' work.
  14. lordairgtar
    All of these stands are pretty cool. The two first stands, although complex, resemble stands and displays at car shows like World Of Wheels.
  15. lordairgtar
    Mine are kept in a case much like seen above by you guys. I was wondering too how you display at shows? I see a lot of childish things at shows like a model placed on top of a platform filled with marbles or a car setting on top of dice. I prefer to see them displayed on a small bit of street not much larger than the model itself much like aircraft guys display a plane on a patch of runway. Cars don't sit on top of marbles or dice in the real world. Mirrors are OK to display the under carriage.
  16. lordairgtar
    Study the chrome reverse wheels...they are not color photos. They were cut and pasted the old fashioned way because the chrome reverse matched the kit wheels.
  17. lordairgtar
    Got mine yesterday. Awesome issue.
  18. lordairgtar
    I will try and post one.
  19. lordairgtar
    Eidai did a lot of kits of Japanese race cars very similar to our Can Am cars of the 60s and 70s. The engines were usually non existant or not realistic.
  20. lordairgtar
    I have the Invader, the Outhouse and the Snap Draggin. Outhouse is built and sitting in my display case
  21. lordairgtar
    The wheels in this kit leave something to be desired. The white plastic it's made with doesn't bother me much but the crown of the tread area does. Is there a source for flat tread area tires.
  22. lordairgtar
    Interesting box art. The scene looks familiar to me. Perhaps Oregon coast/Northern California? I've traveled up and down the 101 during the 70s.
  23. lordairgtar
    When I was a kid, I never added those things to the models. Didn't like them.
  24. lordairgtar
    Interesting.
  25. lordairgtar
    Bondo came out in 1955
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