Foxer

Very nice job on the weathering .. not overdone and looks just right!

pastels and powders usually do stick tenaciously to everything. They will leave a deposit below whatever you're applying them to however ... the stick isn't like a magnet. The big thing is they take a few applications to build up, which is a good thing like all weathering. They will also seem to disappear when applying a flat clear over them, so a few applications to build up always seems necessary. Most of the time I just dry brush or even flow on thinned paint to simulate rust. Usually it's many different ways, sometimes is dabbing thicker paint .. just depends what the effect I'm after is. I love that all the rigid ways we learned to apply paint to models goes out the window when weathering. If you're interested, this is a weathered Chevy pickup I did .. was my first time weathering and I described how I did it in the text

A beauty for sure, no matter how you look at it!

I agree with your wife .. leave it. This is a good first try at weathering .. it really does look beat up. The dent on the right side does look good. The basic grayish paint does look good and worn and the multi-color rusted spots look really good. Just a few comments intended as some things to consider on next time. Look at rusted out photos of 1:1 vehicles closely. The rust over wheel wells usually starts close to the edge where dirt and water gets trapped in the edge crimps in the sheet metal. Most of the chrome, bumpers especially, looks good but try some rust spatter on the BMF trim too. A little more rust paint dry brushing would add more overall. So take my comments with a grain of salt because I really like what you've done!

It took me awhile and a few false pages to find the decal link, but the link returns a 404 error and no page. This is the page I found with the decal link: http://nnleast.com/information.html#register

Ricardo has his Garmin and iPhone plugged in and is beginning to assemble all the parts in the Winery Garage ..hopefully he stays off the loose bottles of wine laying around.

ready to roll for assembly .. Garmin and iPhone plugged in ..

That is odd as you will not get better resolution than that printer .. Epsons print at an effective resolution of 1440 dpi! with my Epson R3000. I always change resolution of my decal photos first thing in Photoshop to 1500 dpi. Do not resize the image when doing this. All my editing and re-sizing starts from there. I always print from Photoshop at the highest print settings for Epson premium glossy paper. This is the back of a van my daughter owned that gives an idea of the resolution you should be getting. The model is 1/25 for reference. These bumper stickers were from my first digital camera .. a 4mp thing and the photo I used was the whole back of the van, so they weren't too high resolution to start with. Feel free to ask me anything about this.

Images don't show here for me. thou the link does. Doesn't seem to have the required HTML /img tags in them. I know they don't always show in a direct link. Since it's photobucket they give the correct link to copy and paste in your thread. On your thumbnail page there's a bunch of boxes below the photo. Click the one that says Then we can all view your photos here.and copy it (ctrl V). Then return to your post and paste it in (ctrl V). Then we can view your photos here. Using any other "simple" method will just cause problems on various boards that don't use whatever photo site's "special" methods. Copy past couldnt be easier .. just have both links open and go back and forth to put photos here.

A hole punch is definitely the way to go as you'll have to print those on white decal paper. Your Epson 220 will be fine to print them ... I have an Epson R3000 I use but it's the same Epson resolution. I've printed decals I can't read by eye but everything is clear under magnification. Use the best photo print setting and let the ink dry a day. Then an acrylic clear coat. Best of luck and let us see the results you get.

That's going to be a tough one to beat with all that in the bed .. a rolling workshop. Looks great!

Sounds like the way you were posting was a hiccup. I have always used Photobucket and just copy/paste the img link they give you. Use ctrl C to copy and ctrl V to paste it in your post. Old school.

GOOD Looking! Are those side stripes decals from the kit?

It's not that often I have any problem with decal softeners.I use mostly Microscale Industries Micro-Sol and Micro-set. These are probably the most commonly used. I also have some Mr. Mark Softer and Setter I got for some thick stubborn decals. My biggest problem is decals not reacting with these products and not settling down. You can easily test any product you use by cutting out a useless area of the same decal sheet .. like the company name that usually is a decal and apply over a similar area of scrap plastic. For your instrument area just punch a hole in sheet plastic and glue to another sheet or use a similar dash. Sometimes pricking a tiny hole in the "bubble" will help by letting air out. Let the decal dry before applying a softener.

It shouldn't be long .. once these are mounted it's in the assembly process! Just a few "instrumentation" to add to the interior .. a Garmin Nav System, an Iphone. The front side marker lights I had to make from an aluminum tube and Bondic casted lenses. The dash in background is from my TR4A build .. added the radio and keyhole.

Just a few "instrumentation" to add to the interior .. a Garmin Nav System, an Iphone. The front side marker lights I had to make from an aluminum tube and Bondic casted lenses. The dash in background is from my TR4A build .. added the radio and keyhole.

guess they missed the boat on that one

Welcome to the most helpful forum around, Sheena. Just ask and you'll receive 3 ways to do everything. Hope you got your transmission mounted ... most parts are keyed in better, but not always. Do not be afraid to post photos ... all levels of builders post here.

I haven't found a need for a plasma cutter in almost 60 years of model car building ... maybe I should look into it .. Craig's advice will do you well and angelo7 gives good advice. That should give you a very good start. Other tools will come to light as you find the need for a specific job.

I agree .. Jay is a car guy of the first order and with the money to indulge. His diversity is what I really like.

It is hollow .. I have one here. I think it would make a good Book Mobile. I got mine to model my step-son's Food Truck. I'll be modeling all the inside. The front doors are made to slide in place but you'll have to do some hinging got any back or side doors. Jeff Ballard does fantastic casting and this in one for sure. The insides are about as smooth as the outsides and not hugely think. Here's a forum page with a large photo of the kit. Bookmobiles come in many shapes and sizes and I've seen many in a Grumman Kurbmaster and competing makes.

lots of potential ..I'm watching ...

I've been looking for zinc chromate because I had sprayed it on my 1:1 TR4A and am doing a model of it. zinc chromate highly toxic, it is also a carcinogen which explains why it is difficult to find now. Here's a few sources I found but haven't tried any yet .. VGT Moeller

beautiful looking build!

nice build ... a rat driver