Foxer

I'd definitely use Bondo as he body filler.. that's what it is. I use both the one and two part versions depending on the job. Interesting about that door script .. never knew the van had that. Sorry I don't know where you'd find one. Maybe start at model car garage.

hahah .. I can't blame you ... at least this spider didn't walk away overnight and I tackled the plug wires into the tube today. It went better than I expected .. just clipped an end close and pushed into the drilled hole. I didn't even glue it ... it's so short the wire will stay in place on it's own. I ran into a small paint touch up area so had to stop, but amazingly I'm still sane!

Forgive me Harry, but I was not aware of the book mentioned that you were involved it .. The cars of the 60's .. could you add more info here like the actual title.. and where to get?

I go 100% with Harry .. I have a computer over 10 years old that have never even had IE started on them. Firefox, and I'm pretty sure Chrome, will import IE bookmarks into them. They give the option when installing.

I'd say it's closer to styrene but it is softer. It's not nearly as hard or brittle as resin. The logo I made could be bent in my hands maybe a little more than an eighth of an inch .. I didn't want to do a fracture test. It did sand well with fine paper. The painted one in my photos (see link below) looks pretty bumpy but that's my fault of being sloppy with it all.. It will smooth right out with a little sanding. It took the sandable primer fine. Here's the post this test came from .. I didn't want to hijack Steve's thread here ..

Quite a classy interior! Very Nice!

I'm sad that the Caddy sides have gotten lost in the shuffle, but this is still looking very good!

Interesting .. are they a plastic cup? I'm surprised they exert enough tension against the body to secure it. I'm not familiar with "solo cups".

This is an interesting build and you really got the look!

I'd definitely try Micro-Sol .. it is for the tough ones. I only use Set for initial placement and Sol thereafter when the decal doesn't conform. Use more than once, but don't touch the decal and let it dry before applying again. Sometimes I'll cut a slit in a stubborn decal and then more Sol. Sometimes just a pin BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH will allow any trapped air out. Best of luck with this one ..

Why not just get a car?

This is a great subject ... feels like the '70s discussing this! So, what's wrong with BMF ... are they just cheapening materials to increase profits like everyone else is doing? They certainly don't have a customer relations department as they never seem respond to anything happening to their product. I have old sheets from 20 years ago so I'm good for some time but it's hard to believe anyone could let their product degrade as you guys describe .. so sad.

I saw many I've seen here .. congratulations all

What a rats nest of wires! I had one yellow wire and have a half inch left over after these .. whew! The ones out of the distributor all go into the end of the tube on the valve cover. The plug wires go into holes spaced along the side of the tube. I'm glad now I went with the yellow wires.

That's a stunning 1:1 .. this should be a stunning model .. looks like it's heading that way so far! Are you going to paint and letter it as the 1:1 that inspired you?

I have some two-part RTV silicone molding compound that has lasted 20 years and makes great small molds like we're talking about. I needed door handles for a van build and just filled the molds with melted sprue ... sprue I left in a jar of Ambroid. I also cast the GMC logo off the grill to use on the rear door. My latest material for these small jobs is Bondic light cured plastic This has worked better than expected .. it's fast and simple and yields a part a good as resin. The clear part in middle is Bondic. White one is the original part.

That's a big YES! Having to tape is one reason I tried those other stands. The Tamiya stand (top left) is the worst because the top doesn't lock onto the bottom part. I've ruined more than one paint job with that ill designed stand.

I use a number of paint stands but the old coat hanger is my favorite .. adapts to any body.

Welcome to the forum. Good to see you jumping in and melting plastic away! I'd suggest investing in a battery operated Dremel tool .. you'll never be sorry and it will cut plastic and many more things. I can't promise it won;t melt the plastic, but not as much as a soldering iron if you move slow at low speed. The battery operated Dremels do work better at lower speeds and melt less plastic.

Can I ask how you attached the hinges? I had major problems gluing similar hinges to a Van I built ... super glue, epoxy .. nothing wanted to keep the cylinders stuck. The truck is looking just spectacular!

We here always appreciate any photos taken at shows ..

YES!

oh my! .. you're blitzing this now!

Then get a Mack or a Freightliner .. when they streamline

The Bondic came and I had a good test as a quick casting compound. I can't afford to use resin because my casting needs are few and far between and doesn't justify what would be 30 years of casting resin for a few hubcaps once or twice a year. I have resin probably 20 years old sitting on a shelf .. I know .. it's too old. So I chose the front VW logo from Revel's Samba kit. I bought the kit just for that separate logo to use on a build of my Dad's '56 Bus that I couldn't paint the cast on logo to my satisfaction. I did all this today! I made a mold with RTC silicone 2 part Mold Putty (this IS 20 years old too but still works). I 'drew' the logo with the Bondic .. moved the application pen around the letters trying to not get any between them. It has a nice consistency ... a little thickish but flows out and levels well. I nudged it around with the tip to get it evenly placed. Then a 4 second light application ... well, I did it for about 10 seconds to be safe. Then I pulled it from the mold! It just popped out easily .. no stick to the mold at all. A part of the outer edge was missing .. so I put it back tight in the mold and added a small drop at the missing area. Cured it and popped out. Couldn't tell where I patched it! The photo shows the mold, cast logo and the original logo (in white). The Bondic is basically clear. You can see a little roughness around the edges which are my quick mold process more than anything. This photo shows the logo after I sanded it a bit. It sands like plastic. The material is a bit flexible ... you can bend it without breaking. I also cut out some with the knife where it spilled over the mold. Easily trimed like plastic. This is after a coat of primer. It does need a little light sanding, but I'd call this done and useable. Very nice! So, I feel Bondic is another good tool to add to the arsenal we usr building cars. It's quick and easy for those little things we NEED! I haven't tried it yet as a bonding agent ..