Foxer

Thanks for the responses. Using thin sheets should allow the bend pretty easily but the edges have to be exposed at the end of the fenders and they might present a problem .. doable but messy. It was a good thought. Maybe I'll pay around the yield point .. or elastic limit ... and see if I can match the fender curve

I have to bend some .03" sheet to match the end curve on some '32 Ford fenders as shown in the photo. I want the fenders to extend across the width of the body. I want them to have a set so they won't put pressure on the joint. I'm guessing a hair dryer or hot water will soften it to bend the shape and a dunk in cold water will set it. So, I'm asking those with some experience on this to give some insight and any recommendations you may have to accomplish this. Thanks in advance.

Beautiful work on a beautiful car .. and ugly kit!

Superb job on that BMF!

Hmmmm .. as usual, you're gonna make me think! I do plan to add back the body "trim" I sanded off the hood ... basically where the hood hinges were. Separation lines will be there so multi-reds could work easily.

Thanks everyone and that skull nose does give a similar effect. The paint will be Tamiaya TS11 Maroon over a black primer base. Maybe some candy apple red or a pearl on top.

Been awhile but I HAVE been working. I ended up gluing the hood and nose the get everything blended. I'm not sure if I'll cut apart in the end or just leave as is. Having the nose on body while the engine is exposed will be better but maybe I'll just hinge the whole thing at the cowl. This is the first coat of putty sanded a bit. The spoons show the paint I decided. The darker one is with a black undercoat and that I will use. I moved the motor mounts almost a quarter inch up on the engine to clear the hood and got the mounting pins installed. Also got the mounts on the frame done and looks like the SHO engine will clear the hood. I'll probably gouge a bit under the hood to insure clearance also.

This is beyond believable. I sometimes forget how small these parts are!

I'm 100% with David.

You had an '83? .. thought '84 was the first 944 here or was it a European model? I did that conversion to normally aspirated on a build of the '87 I had.

Now, that was brilliant ... using paint to create a natural look! It looks just right.

One great creation! Thanks for the fun watching you build, Ira!

Looks like a really interesting build.

Some of my favorite cars there. I love the snake's nest of headers on your example.

Here's another link with some more images I like this right off the bat

That looks VERY good! Nice job!

Simply beautiful! That paint on all those curved surfaces is outstanding!

The screen is a nice touch.

First, let me welcome you back into building. There are many different answers to your questions and they come down to building style. We've all developed the ways we build and there's no wright or wrong for the most part.A lot of things do make a difference, though. On engines I paint all the separate pieces before assembly. I do glue block halves first and heads also if they will be painted the same colors. Color is in fact what separates the sub-assemblies I might have. I try to many different metal paints and spray as much as possible. Testors Metalizer spray paints are a good start for good looking metal finishes. I usually only use primer on the body parts because almost everything I do required bodywork. Also, I use lacquers a lot and those paints need a primer to protect the metal. The primer also insures a uniform tone to the final paint. As far as glue, a liquid plastic glue, such as Ambroid Pro Weld (and others), a medium Ca GLUE (I like Zap-A-Gap CA+ because I use the whole bottle before it dries up), a 5-minute epoxy and a glue for windshields and clear parts ( I use a watch crystal cement but Testors has a windshield cement) Enjoy yourself and look at all the others ways of doing things that I'm sure will get posted here. Then chose what seems right to you.

I tend to various glues depending on the particular build as many times I have various metal shafts adapting a wheel. The glue type really doesn't matter. The big thing is using some type of jig to insure the wheels set straight. I have a Micro-Mark magnetic jig but usually I use some heavy angles places against the wheels.

Very nice! How did you do the rubber cover on the tailgate chain? .. shrink wrap tube?

Nice surgery going on here. Vans are such a blank canvas ... I'll be enjoying this.

It looks pretty uncared for .... wonderful!

Ahhh ... the smell of a Jag with that supple camel hide interior ...

My 32 has a Revell frame for reason of access to the interior after I weld the body to the fenders, so I can't throw it into this build. I WILL be doing it in spirit though! Here's a last peek here so and you'll have to keep up with my On the Workbench build to see it progress .. but it will be slow a usual anyway. All these old AMT builds here are looking really fine!