Foxer

For everyone thinking about this, I use a light box I build for very little. I used 3/4" PVC pipe and elbows and is 28"x18"x18", but you can make any size. It can even be broken down if you leave some of the pipe unglued. Just make a frame using the 3 leg joints for the top and stick the vertical legs in. I use a white sheet to cover it all. I have photo lights, but you can even use regular incandescent lights and set you camera's white balance to tungsten. DO use a tripod or some kind of camera support! This is very important for th ebest, sharpest photos. This is another place you can get a lightbox and has some good tutorials on using one. Some sites showing how to make some very inexpensive light boxes: cardboard light box this is using PVC similar to the one I made

I'd expect they may be close, but making springs of any size from wire is so easy .. and about as cheap as it gets. I use wire for throttle and shock strut springs too.

Firefox has always been free and I have no reason to expect it will ever be charged for. It was originally called Mozilla and before that..Netscape! Many of you must remember Netscape! I've used Netscape, and it's successors, for ... lets see.. since the 80's anyway, so I don't expect to be required to pay any time soon!

The chassis is from the Hemi Cuda. Most everything I used is from that kit as it was the right wheelbase and was fairly realistic for a 62-63 car. The pop off valves are made from some HO scale bolts I had for ages. They are square nuts and have large washers. I used because the washers gave a large end for the springs. The wire is stripped Radio Shack wrapping wire, .001" diameter and silver .. just wrapped around the end of a drill bit slightly larger than the shaft on the bolts. It ended up being a pretty simple job and should add a lot to the plain disk in the kit. Those I plan to do some closeups.

Tomorrow, when the header paint is dry, I should know that's it's gonna work for sure and will throw some pics here. The WIP for the car is throughout the Lion's drag strip build off here. The link is to the current last page. This build has been going on since April and ends Dec 31 ..of course I'm right down to the wire, but MAY make it!

I missed this one first time around. I really like that grill ... looks like some bent tube?

Looks like the Comp Coupe will be sweeping the pavement .. free of charge! I went a bit off kilter as far as headers go since I started fabricating out of some 18 gage wire I had and similar in fashion to what dwc43 has said. The insulation has an OD of .072", or 1.8" diameter and looks about right. They are a tight fit on the Competition Pack 283 as far as also fitting a flange around them. I pulled back the wire from the end and the insulation makes a node end when cut square. Some aluminum metalizer is now drying on them. They will bent easily once glued into the block holes. They will bend down and back slightly so the rear ones exit under the body. Even if these have to bend a bit more than the exposed ones, I'm guaranteed a fit. Length should scale out about 15".

Looks like they've added a bunch since I last looked. That TR4 ans the Saab 96 give me the itch to build one! A pile of just plain neat cars!

NOW YOU'RE TALKING!!!! ... easier than chopping a VW!!!

This is sounding really good! Those driveway holes are a riot! .. that had to be one powerful leaf blower!! Looks like I need to find some .092 solder.. the .062 I have will just look too small for this. I was gonna use some alum tube but the bend-ability of the solder may be a must, especially with the short time I had left. Thanks for the first hand knowledge .. I'm getting excited now..

I smell some potential here .. but might have only about 12" for length .. still..

That is most excellent! .. but maybe start thinking Ox Roast from the size of that broiler!!

Defiantly agree on those wheels .. and paint! ..looking fantastic.

Nice photo shop!

(I made a separate post of this to get a wider audience for help, but adding it here for completeness of this thread) The boys down at the local Sunoco station just got too excited building this comp coupe to run out on the left coast at the last run at Lion's and measured only ONCE! The engine is set too far back when matching the bell housing to have the rear header clear the body. It looks like at least a 1/4" interference. The headers will be straight zoomies tilted back. The obvious solution is to move the engine forward at least a 1/4" which is no problem as far as fitting to the frame. The space between the firewall/bell housing will become a problem as far as looking correct. I don't believe it's practical to move the bell housing at this late stage. Maybe attach the bell housing from the original engine will make it look "ok". This is a Competition Parts Pack engine and the housing is here. The rear header is pretty much in line with the magneto. It's also possible to notch the body and paint at this point, though this may just look TOO funky. So, I'm reaching out to any ideas however funky they may be.

The boys down at the local Sunoco station just got too excited building this comp coupe to run out on the left coast at the last run at Lion's and measured only ONCE! The engine is set too far back when matching the bell housing to have the rear header clear the body. It looks like at least a 1/4" interference. The headers will be straight zoomies tilted back. The obvious solution is to move the engine forward at least a 1/4" which is no problem as far as fitting to the frame. The space between the firewall/bell housing will become a problem as far as looking correct. I don't believe it's practical to move the bell housing at this late stage. Maybe attach the bell housing from the original engine will make it look "ok". This is a Competition Parts Pack engine and the housing is here. The rear header is pretty much in line with the magneto. It's also possible to notch the body and paint at this point, though this may just look TOO funky. So, I'm reaching out to any ideas however funky they may be.

This come out fantastic! Do be careful around any humps around the farm .. that long wheelbase will surly hang up.

I'd say George's house, but now that he can post photos, we might see he has no shelf space for all of them!

My wife doesn't dare get me anything related to modeling, so I fiend for myself and won a bid off ebay for one of Lyn's Dad's kits! I love these old European jobs and maybe this will end up a street custom.

Looking very good! I was frantic waking up this morning until I saw the "View New Content" option to the right .. old familiar return on that! What really amazed me was all the links I saved to my old posts WORK!!! Now, if George manages to post this morning we have a hit .. EVERYONE can! Fantastic job!

Now, that's different! It looks great. ))

It's Christmas Eve and getting down to the wire. Starting to have doubts on finishing this, but will keep plugging as time allows. I have to get off my typical detail binge as it approaches completion ... that may be how I manage to procrastinate and never finish! It still needs seat belts fabricated (PE and blue belt material), The engine mounts fabricated today and paint drying, Engine locked (taped) in place to receive mounts, The blower blow-off cover screws are partially fabricated and shouldn't take too long now that a few are fabricated and the method is down. They are being made from some cast bolts wrapped with very fine wire for springs. I'm taking some artistic liberty and only using 4 blots instead of th e6 commonly used. (I have to leave SOMETHING for the parts counters to find!) Steering rods need to be fabricated. At least the front spindles are on so these can be sized. Headers are still up in the air. Couldn't locate and zoomies and all the headers I have won't look right if I cut and modify them. I think it will be aluminum tube straight ones. At least they have a chance to get done and the "crudeness" will be appropriate for this local shop build. The fuel line connectors are all made and painted so they should go well once the engine is bolted in place. The body got a notch cut in the cowl to clear the magneto since it was painted. Another coat is almost dry and ready for decals! It cut into the cowl vent so some weld beads were added to that to secure it. The paint is being left "rough" as if it was painted in a less than perfect environment in the back of the gas station shop. (how's THAT for an excuse for some orange peel?) Other small things like the parachute, steering wheel and some washes for contrast just waiting for everything above. Hmmm.. it always looks longer when it's spelled out... oh well .. ehhe

Awesome showing up on the "big car" sites! Congrats, Bob! .. and glad they are using MCM linkbacks for more info.

Really nice job on the chains!

Chains WOULD be cool. I once used a set on a TR4A in the winter even! They did come apart at about 65 on the highway finally ... but that was after many trips of about 4 hours when I was stationed at Fort Devens Mass one winter. Chains are available but would be some fine detail work connecting all the pieces.