Chuck Most

Dave- a bit off topic, but I have to ask. I noticed on your Smugmug, you had some pics of early IH rigs. Are those just for your own personal enjoyment... or are you guys at Moebius up to something?

IF you totally ignore the rear sump oil pan, rear mounted, vertical oil filter, front cover, and water pump... which are clearly Chevrolet pieces. Never mind the fact the heads don't look anything at all like Ford small block heads. (FE heads, maybe.)

Thanks! It's all making sense now - I was messing around with an Ertl Transtar Eagle earlier, trying to replicate a 1:1 truck. I had the wheelbase measurement, but using the rear axle centerlines it looked WAY off! Now, knowing where the rear axles SHOULD be positioned for the wheelbase, it looks a LOT better.

Does this mean I'm getting paid double time?

One of my favorite kits! LOVE that camo scheme.

Got it. Thanks! The info will come in handy.

Stupid 'newbie' question here, I know, but how does one measure the wheelbase on a rig with more than one rear axle? Do you measure from the centerline of the front axle to the centerline of the rear axle nearest the front, or the rear? Would a tag axle count? Thanks for any info!

Is that why she's your ex? Why? It already has a Mercury front end.

Nah, sorry... the Aztek's sister from Buick had it sacked as far as ugly went...

Could have been jealousy. Maybe people DID think they were cool cars when they were new, but were too ashamed to own up to it.

Some sad and sorry machines there... and in this case I mean that in a good way!

Hey! I uttered not a breath about the '32 Ford.

Half round would work for the side cove trim, but I'm not sure why you'd need it- the kit already has it molded in. Now, REMOVING that trim in that little valley is can be a pain! I've got one I'm planning to make into a base-level Crew Cab- removing that trim piece without damaging the cove is a project unto itself!

And the oil filter is in the wrong place.

The cut lines aren't properly located on the body, but the skirts are molded in. If you want to build the model without skirts, cut about 5mm behind the front engraved line, and 3mm behind the rear line, so the wheel will be centered in the opening. Dave Metzner has said future runs of the kit will have this issue corrected.

Didn't know there was a kit of the Excelsior. Very cool!

When the second part applies, they're also known as 'Sock Puppets'.

I was thinking Steppenwolf, but AC-DC works just as well.

Big block Chevy- not sure what kit it is from, though. The Flip Nose Ford truck does come with a big block Chevy, but the heads and blower are different.

Agreed. Detail and quality-wise, they hold up pretty well even by today's standards.

The engine compartment looks plenty wide, too- a 1:24 engine would fill it out pretty nicely.

Glad you posted that Greg- reminds me I have a few of those Muscle Machines models in my stash. I've seen lots of guys redo Matchbox and Hot Wheels cars... can't say I've ever seen anyone rework a Muscle Machine.

There was one at a local junkard about 13 years back that had a simliar.... ah.... act perfomed upon its person. Backyard angle iron and stick welder job. I'd actually almost like this one if it weren't for all that polished diamond plate in the back.

One other thing that might be a factor- quite a few of the guys buying this kit weren't around when they were new. Guys like me in the under-30 (for three more months, anyway) crowd. For us, the 'dork car' factor they had when they were new cars is lost, and we see the car without that bias.

So when is that massive influx of Gremlins going to show up, I wonder?