Chuck Most

I've drawn inspiration from too many to list, but as a guy who prefers building weathered models, I have to say the 'big three' for me are Pat Covert,Ken Hamilton, and Virgil Suarez- their techniques and models have provided more motivation than I can put into words over the years.

I'm already digging it.

Nice!

Ditto Fotki.

I'm hoping to get my hands on a built-up '61 T-Bird (original annual) and/or a built-up '60's issue Monogram '58 T-Bird, might have to jump in with one of those.

Yikes! What the... To answer your question, no. If it were just the roof area, I'd reccomend cutting and pasting the good parts from it onto an easier-to-find MPC/AMT '69 body, but that body is pretty much cashed.

Could. Trouble is now I'm seriously considering making my own dash. Thanks for egging me on, guys!

I'd gladly put a hundred bucks toward a '56 Olds. Question is... can we get all 8,000 members here to do it? Don't think so.

Okay, mixed up the timeline on the Deuces a bit! And I hadn't taken into consideration Revell has changed ownership about as often as Chrysler over the last decade or so. I also hadn't considered the 'custom as opposed to hot rod' angle until you mentioned it just now, but I clearly see your point on that. Sounds like a plausible theory to me, but you still won't see this cat holding his breath for a stock-top '48 coupe kit in the cards anytime soon.

For Fotki, click on the 'Share' button just above the image. This will bring up a box, and the first thing you will see is Image URL for use on other sites:. Left-click on the adress just below that, and it will turn orange and a 'copied' message will appear. Then come back to the MCM editor, and click on the image icon, just below the 'sizes' box. When you do that, another box will pop up. Then simply move the cursor into the text box and right-click to paste. Click OK, and the image will appear in the edit box.

I really can't imagine how anybody could get so worked up about it. These things are a dime a dozen! Need a door? There are about fifteen of these things at my local junkyard!

I WANT IT!!!!

Meh...I'm all done holding out on Revell doing any 'alternate' versions. It was,what, a 13 year span between this coupe kit and the original Convert and Woody kits? The Tudor and 5-window Deuce kits were about a decade after the original Roadster and Speedwagon (though the three-window didn't take nearly as long), and the 'no-brainer' hardtop version of the '72 Cutlass that everybody (including me) is chomping at the bit for still hasn't happened. If Revell is doing a stock-height version of this, it won't be until about 2016 before I even begin to think of seeing it on the shelves. But hey, I've been wrong, and for all the guys who want a stock height coupe kit, I really do hope I'm wrong this time. But I'm not holding my breath, that's for sure!

Oh, these puppies will be widespread by the end of the month!

The write-up on Replicas and Miniatures was awesome- he's one of those casters I'm truly ashamed I don't buy more from. Bill and Len's Darts were killer. And the Chrysler sketchpad article was sweet, even though I'm not a huge fan of bubbletop designs. I'm still thumbing through Tim Boyd's trailer article- that one's giving me all sorts of ideas!

Oh, yeah! Build a sweet custom model and still have scads of killer parts box stuff!

Love that Revell DeSoto/Moebius Hornet combo grille treatment! Man, you could stop right there and have a really cool looking ride.

Ah... forgot all about the Lowrider version. That and the Monkeemobile were the only two drop tops I'd seen. In fact, I had the Monkeemobile a few years back as a parts donor.

Didn't Monogram do a drop-top Fox Mustang? I seem to remember one being issued as the 'New Monkeemobile', but that had to have been a good 20 years ago.

Ah, good old Wikipedia. Saying an FE is technically a Y-Block is like saying the inline six in your Trailblazer is technically a Stovebolt!

A couple of questions- (Mike already brought up the temperature issue, and PP does work much better when warm) One, is the Purple Power still purple? Once it's been used on quite a few stripping sessions, it starts to get cloudy and full of particles and loses some of its 'punch'. Filtering it will help in this case ( I just run it through a series of cloth rags), but once it gets to a certain point it just isn't any good anymore and needs replaced, even after filtering. Two, is it in a covered container? I don't have any scientific data, but for me, it always seems to work best in a covered container. A covered container is probably better than an open one when dealing with a solvent like Purple Power anyway. And finally, regarding your question on removing the stubborn stuff. I have had good luck using a nylon-bristle brush. Not an old toothbrush- I use the detailing brushes sold at most auto parts outlets, which come in a package of three with nylon, brass, and steel bristles. Scrubbing off the stubborn stuff and then putting it back in the PP helps. In fact, you can even use the brass brush if you don't go crazy with it- if it is an older plastic kit or resin the material will shrug off the brass. I wouldn't use the steel brush as it will scratch up even the toughest old kit plastic. And sometimes, depending on paint, Purple Power just plain won't get every last speck off the body, no matter what you try.

Nah... that thing would look dinky in that engine bay!

Yeah- this one has pretty much stalled for the time being. The truck (technically I guess it would be a tractor in this case) is done, the trailer is about 90%, but I'm still leaning more toward a camper trailer now. There will be four feet of snow on the ground here pretty shortly and I'll have lots of indoor time- I guess we'll see if I make any more progress on this thing!

How's about an AllisonW-24?

And of course a lot of it has to do with how bad the warp is. I've had a few bodies with a very slight warp or twist in them- merely installing the completed interior and/or chassis introduced enough of a tension fit to hold the body straight.