iBorg

The first photo doesn't do this model justice. I love the texture detail in the fenderwells. Great detail! The doors look like doors and not slabs of plastic. Great job.

First THANKS for posting the conversion.....Next question, any contact info as to where to get the conversion kit? Mike

Where's that from? I'd like an original. Mike

I've never considered the Lindberg Challenger. Can you PLEASE (that's me begging) post pictures. The roof issues of the Yankee Challenger always gets me to pass on it, even through I have six or seven of them. Hmmm.....Lindberg body, AMT chassis and Jo-Han engine. Just need to figure out how to throw something from Revell in there.

subscribed.....GREAT work.

That should be on the border of Ohio and West Virginia. The Ohio drivers have such a bad reputation with driving in West Virginia, about five years ago a legislator submitted a bill requiring Ohio drivers to submit to random driving tests.......No kidding. It was withdrawn before it could come to vote due to fear it would have passed.

I'd love to get pictures of the build up. The chassis is interesting in that it looks like a Logghe but has a driver's offset as well as what looks like supports for the hood. While I doubt I'd ever try to recreate it, I could see this under a couple of other bodies I have lying around. Mike

Absolutely....I'd love to find a bunch more pictures of it. Absolutely love it. Mike

Having been able to make it down there for a couple of years. Last time I was there, the show was quite good and the vendors plentiful. There was some good deals and some unrealistic prices. Have fun! Mike

Any history on this car? Is it real or a replica? Thanks, MIke

That body I'm pretty sure was cast by the original folks behind A F/X resin. Whether it is sold by them or another individual I don't know. At one time I know another individual was buying them and selling them. A F/X resin had some GREAT products but near their end using that name, their customer service was without a doubt the worst of any resin caster. Sad ending to a company that produced some of the best product available. I'll agree it is on a level with the best resin casters.

Why? Why do I bother with this model stuff? Six month build time and I wouldn't approach the quality of your build. If I didn't see all the bits of pieces in plastic I wouldn't believe this is really plastic. I'm looking forward to seeing more build shots. I have several of these motors and am always disappointed with how fake they look. If you have an album showing more build up photos, please share it. Mike

Just stumbled across this build. I'm amazed by your speed. Quality is top rate! Mike

Wow.....this auction listed......no buyers. This is the second time its been listed with the same result. Wonder if the lister will take a hint?

I'm not saying it is.....I am saying he's doing a lot of promoting of this auction. If I were interested in them, I'd let them fall off the map and hope they're reissued as an auction or at a reasonable price. I won't go further as that would cross a line that I don't wish to. Mike

Based upon his completed auction listings, either A. HE'S a LIAR or B. HE'S VIOLATING Ebay TERMS of SERVICE POLICY since absolutely none show as being sold. It does show that the lister did try to finance their new car off of fools who fell for this way over priced shelf setter. So Andy, do you think the seller is a LIAR or a Violator of the eBAY contract?

Ken: That would be a more reasonable price but.....the ad says: THIS IS THE PRICE AND WILL NOT ACCEPT BEST OFFER $499.99EACH FLAT SHIPPING IS $24.99 I know what my wife would say......"Where's that phone book...... Lawyers................ Hmmm.....Lawyers-Divorce." Mike

It's as rare as an ink jet printer that prints white! It is a lot of money....in a better economy, it would be sold. Mike

I'd try soaking it in alcohol. It will take the paint and chrome off and it may loosen the adhesive. Good luck. Mike

This has been a great discussion. Please don't think any idea is a hijack or unworthy. I'll admit this has been great to watch. In fact I've read so many great ideas that a still borne project is going to get pulled out of the stack. THANKS!

I am trying to reinforce a body where I've made major changes. This will require heavy sanding after I make the joint. Suggestions how to make a REALLY strong joint. The joint will be hidden (it's on the underside of the body) so appearance is less important than strength. Thanks, Mike

Harry: I don't churn my own butter but I do spin the cloth in my clothing. (Those who know me now are going, "That explains it.") Mike

What I've used has a fluid you run the vellum through after it comes out of the printer. The fluid runs through what truly looks like an old PMT processor. Now if you remember PMTs, you're showing your age! I've held fairly small seriffs on textiles. If you've got your exposure time correct, have at least 24 psi vaccuum AND you wash it out correctly, it will work. And now back to the original question, HOW is Andy printing WHITE? Mike

You could avoid the camera and use vellum in a laser printer. I've had good luck with it for textiles....but..... I agree. Even removing the camera from the equation, you still have to deal with coating, exposing and cleaning out screens. Way to much work for a short run project. Mike

Andy: I understand how to do the spot color using an Alpha channel in Photoshop. That gives you the spot colors in the file. My question is how do you get the Epson R220 to print white. Epson doesn't show this ink color being available. Where are you getting a cart that will print white? Mike