FujimiLover

Got my Smart Car and Honda motorcycle today! Thank you!

That first one, the purple one is kind of cool. Reminds me of a Dutch-shoe for some reason. I almost expect a figure of Eddie Monster on that hearse!

I dont' always follow my own rules when working on a model. When trimming a plastic part with my hobby-knife, I occasionally skip the plastic and hit my thumb. I've tried to make myselfe a rule to stick a bandade on my thumb BEFORE I begin modeling so that the bandade will act as a cusion. You don't want blood all over your nice new plastic! So rule of "THUMB", remember the bandade first!

That third one look's scary for some reason Look's like you scored some restoration projects!

This will be number FIVE! I just trimmed up the chassis, some chassis parts, and body. I also hand-washed the parts to clean the mold-resude off'of theme. The car is going to be Guards Red, a color that Porsche uses alot. On this car, the instructions clearly sais that the entire chassis main part be body color with the main front and main rear parts silver, with a few black bit's. So, I'll be painting both the chassis and body at the same time. All parts of this car are molded in white with the window/lenses parts molded in clear. Since I'm useing Model Masters and not Tamiya, I'm not sure how Model Masters will work on top of bare plastic. So, I'm going to use white primer, white base, and top it with the red and so on. And no, I am not going to wash the KS mirrors over an open sink! LOL!

Thank you Mike! This was the type of picture I was looking for! two of'em. Should this car have two, or just one? Either case I can clearly see that they are not going into the bonnet's vents, rather next to theme. So, I'll need to make mine thinner as well.

The KS 911 in Koenig's catalouge. Noticed the optional full-red leather interior treatment at right-center?

Well, I couldn't resist this one anymore. Even though I'm still working on my wide-bodied MR2, I just had to get this one out between body modifications on the MR2. I've built this kit once before and it's a pretty simple kit to do. Body and parts Model Masters Guards Red for body and chassis, and Testors Flat Red for the interior. I'm going to build it to replicate this real car here notice the red interior and gold wheels? Nice huh? Now if only my paint job can look this good!

Oh, okay. P/E as in photo-etched, gotcha! I knew that........ duh!

No thank you, but I would like to find more pictures of the MR2's snorkal's particularly where it meets the engine lid. I'd like to know how to make mine more exact to this model. Looking at the shape of the snorkal, it doesn't look like it covers the entire vent area like mine does. It look's alot thinner, so where and how does it meet? What's the shape of the base and the way it attaches to the vent?

Some more shaping of the snorkal. And I mounted it on the base I made from plastic. Seems to take a while to harden, but it's getting there. Some pic's of it on the car. This will take some time to get it EXACTLY like the MR2 snorkal's. I'd like to find a picture of where the snorkal actually mounts to the engine lid. Where I've got it located right now, it's resting ontop of the vent.

Oh cool! I didn't know that as I was just going by the picture provided. The gold look's great with that green!

What do you mean by P/E hardware?

I've had good luck with tooth-picks as my tool.

I've occasionally had the blue-tape peal off some paint. So I have no doubt it'll peal off decal. Thus, clear coating it first.

Has there been any really super big 1/8 scale models of this car? That would be the only way I think it could be a model. But I'm still sticking with real.

Pictures of what you have in mind will help alot. However, I would apply the decal on the hood first, then clear coat it. Clear coating it will protect it from harm. Let the clear coat dry for a day or two. Then do your masking and painting. Then when your painting is satisfactory, clear coat again to cover the paintwork. If you attempt to mask the CF decal first, the masking tape will tear the decal when you remove it. Clear coating will prevent that.

My first attempt at molding it into the shape of the snorkal. I decided to go ahead with the traditional MR2 shape as I've got these great pictures here that were provided by Kuztommodels. Thank you very much! I'm sure I'll be making a few more of these till I get the perfect shape. Question about Milliput, can you add onto it once the original peice has hardened?

I decided to open up my package of Milliput. I've never used this stuff before and the instructions sais to take off a tiny peice from each stick, mold'em together and play with it to get a feel for it's behavior. Isn't this the same stuff they advertise on tv where they fix a handle on a coffee cup and make a chain-link? Anyway, I'm considering useing this to mold the snorkal instead of scratch-building one out of plastic.

I'm wondering why Aoshima did that when the real car has gray wheels?

I'm a member of Mini-ZRacer.com forum. This is a forum based on Kyosho's 1/28 scale RC cars and over the past five years I've been collecting/selling, collecting/selling, the AutoScale bodies. AutoScale is a name Kyosho has given their highly detailed, highly collectible plastic bodies that come on a dumby chassis and in a beautiful display case. Many of us racers enjoy collecting as many bodies as we can find and we get very excited when we get our hands on rare ones and later on sell it off for a profit. Sometimes we dont' make a profit at all, but that's part of the game. I have learned over the years, I dont' know if this is true with die-cast models as it is with the Kyosho AutoScale bodies, but the AutoScale bodies definetly maintane their value if left in their box. Some of us do take the bodies out of the box for display, but we tend to keep all the papers, packaging and extra's. These AutoScale bodies usually cost around 20-50 dollars. When the Lamborghini Murcielago first came out, they came out in three colors, yellow, green, and limited edition black. These were the most popular highly sought-after bodies as they were very popular for racing and collecting. These day's, I've seen a mint condition NIB Murcielago AutoScale go for as high as 200 dollars on ebay! That's the cost of a ready-set Mini-Z! So to answer your question, if your planning on investing in hopes to make a profit in the future, keep'em in the box, or at least keep the box and try and keep all the packaging in mint condition. This way, you can take the model out and enjoy theme, but when time to let it go, you can put it back in it's original packaging. Hope this helps!

WOW Beautiful job! This is my number ONE all TIME FAVORITE super sports car and you've done a marvolous job at it! Take a look at my red one if you haven't seen it already. I was planning on similar color as yours with a Light Ivory interior, but changed the body paint to Italian Red instead. You did a very nice job on it! Thank you for shareing!

Are there any model kit's of the Nova Sterling? I've always been a fan of the movie Condorman and dream of owning a model of Condorman's super car. It is as you may know a modified Nova Sterling and I think it would make an interesting project. I'd have no idea how to create the bird on it though.

Alright! An F1! I want to say it's a real one shot at a professional studio.

I didn't realize that was hand-painted, so even more impressive! I was thinking of vinyl pint-stripping tape. That is what I was asking about as the tape is what curles up on the curves.