sjordan2

Shipping just getting started. About $1,975. http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/39415-1-8-miura-3.html

Is that the 1/16 Revell kit?

Must have been quite exciting while executing the Plummet Maneuver with everything in front of you in flames.

Fuel tank on the forward bulkhead in front of the pilot? I guess that made for more thrilling movies.

I had one that looked very much like that, but it had a battery-operated controller on a cord with levers for forward/reverse/right/ left. Also had a bullet-nose Studebaker of similar description. The Ford was the same as this one (except for a $525 Buy It Now price). This was also made by AMT. Check just above the left rear bumper and see if there's a big hole where the cord would go. If not, it's a standard promo that Casey and Art identified. Here's a LOT of detail... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1949-FORD-REMOTE-CONTROL-CAR-RARE-IN-ORIGINAL-BOX-/380376506714

You really need to poke around in the Q&A section for a ton of interesting info and tips.

"You can give a man a link and he will find what he needs but for the day. You can show a man how to search and you don't have to mess with him."

There are a number of pinned topics at the top of this forum's Q&A section on removing paint without harming plastic.

All copyright issues aside for this discussion (but they still pertain), who paid you for the part you made? Missing Link? If so, did they give you a purchase order? Did the purchase order state that you were doing Work Made for Hire? My point is, if any or all of that is true, Missing Link would own the rights to the part you made, and the ball's in their court. However, just like any other creative work, you would have the right, ahead of doing the work, to tell them you wanted to retain ownership and cross out the "Work Made for Hire" clause with their agreement and initials. But that requires negotiating up front. Don't start commissioned work without a P.O. that outlines the terms of the agreement. It's a binding contract. You can get standard forms.

It's pretty amazing when you look at it to realize this kit was contemporary with the actual car. The body is pretty accurate, and I don't remember it having US headlights (or is the European glass missing?). I built this when I was a kid, and I'd like to get my hands on one to give it another shot.

I was adding more info to my post above when the dreaded Mac beachball appeared and stopped everything -- ergo, constipation in the digital wazoo. Anyway, I was going to say that the Hubley / Minicraft Rolls has also been issued by Minicraft as a "Country Squire" edition with horrible woodie decals, and no other differences. To add injury to insult, many of them were produced with mistaken labeling that said they were 1/16 scale, when it's really 1/24. There never was a 1/16 version of this kit, and I have often alerted unknowing eBay sellers to prevent them from ending up with unhappy buyers. (I know from experience -- I am the unhappy owner of a mislabeled kit, but the seller was so willing to make things right that I essentially got the kit for free).

Ed, I would LOVE to see your Mercedes. And Greg, the Minicraft kit has mold seams up the wazoo.

The Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud II by Hubley was the only promo model ever authorized by the factory. It's still available today as a Minicraft kit, and needs a lot of work to become acceptable. Hubley also made a 300 SL roadster cabriolet promo.

It just gets better and better.

Just killer. Superb detail and craftsmanship.

Superb. Time to see another one.

I like them with me in them.

Another way of doing it is using heat transfer foil to make stickers (I use Papilio). I made some nice chrome Mercedes star logo horn buttons on cream paper using this process. This requires printing your art at correct scale size on a laser printer that uses black toner (Staples, Office Max, etc). The foil is taped over the printed-out black artwork and either run through a heat laminator, or using a regular clothes iron at 330F or slightly above. The art should be printed on colored bond paper stock that closely matches the color of the surface where you want the script or whatever to be placed, and trimmed as tightly as possible. Look for heat transfer foil on Google. For example, the reversed mercedes logos I posted above in the black bars were intended for use on black paper stock for the chrome foil heat transfer process.

Here's an example of a door sill decal I'm making for my Mercedes SS. The photo from the actual car was cleaned up in Photoshop, then turned into vector graphics.

Another thought for gauges that I'm going to try on my Mercedes SS is inspired by the way gauge decals and lenses are done on the 1/12 Bentley. - Drill out the gauge faces on the dash. - Create the gauges and print them out to scale backwards on clear decal paper. - Apply the decals to clear styrene, let dry and set, then paint white over them to provide the necessary white part of the gauge. - Glue to the dash panel from behind. The advantage is that the clear styrene gives you an instant flat gauge glass without having to add any clear, etc., and you reduce the possibility of the ink bleeding.

Memphis is the home of FedEx. In addition, DHL is another service that partners with USPS.

Thanks for the heads up. Pulling for him.

Nicely done. Where did the headlights come from?

One caveat -- I got the Model Factory Hiro Borranis for my 1/25 Monogram/Aurora Maserati GT (a sister kit to your Aston) and they're really too large at 1/24. They appear to have been designed for a Ferrari GTO, with the rear wheels being slightly larger and wider.

Great work so far, and I love the graphic presentation.