sjordan2

Definitely sporadic, but there have been a few high-profile 1:1 replica cases. For example, Ferrari jumped all over manufacturers of fiberglass replicas such as the Miami Vice Daytona Spider and forced one well-known builder who made replica GTOs out of business. Last I checked, sellers of used Miami Vice cars are not allowed to use the word Ferrari on eBay. And just last year, Mercedes forced the destruction of replica 300 SL Gullwing bodies, which can be seen on YouTube. Many of you know that there's an Asian reissue of the Ferrari 250 GT California Spider model kit (Testors Italeri originally?), with a box that says something like "Italian Sports Car" with no Ferrari ID.

For example, you would want to figure out a way to turn this art into plain black-and-white logos, then reverse them into white and place over a body color square. It can be done by an experienced Photoshop person. Ideally, you could just trace everything in black ink and turn it over to a custom photoetcher, but I've never found anyone who can do that or any reliable aftermarket etcher.

Chrome logo decals: I don't have the technology to do this myself, but I know it can be done, because I've supervised professional artists who can do it. - Take your artwork from its black stage and reverse it to white with proper outlining (in paths), then place it in a color box that is as close as possible to the body paint, maybe a couple of shades darker. - Print it out on clear decal paper to the desired size (dry it, clear it, etc), then apply it to BMF or similar. - Trim as tightly as you can and glue in place. Harry P. can probably describe this better, or figure it out. But there is a limit to how small you can go and maintain resolution. Practice on plain paper first, of course.

Can't see any pictures.

Headlight lenses? Go to a crafts store and look for a bag of "Googly Eyes" in the Big Pack with a bunch of different sizes for adding eyes to teddy bears, dolls, etc. They have clear, subtly convex facings, with little black eyeballs inside. My bag is by Creative Hands from Hobby Lobby here. Don't know what's available in the UK, but there must be products that are the same or similar. Here are some from Amazon UK called Wiggly Wobbly http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-White-Wiggly-Wobbly-Googly/dp/B002R5J2C8 Of course, that's for a car with convex headlights. An MG of that vintage may have flat lenses, so you'd just use clear styrene sheet and cut it out. Thinking about it overall, if I were in your position, I would have started my scratchbuilding at 1/16 scale, providing the ability to get parts from existing kits such as the Entex/Minicraft/etc Jaguar SS100 and MG TC as a source for headlights, tires, levers, etc.

So, what's the Chevy connection in your life?

I also wonder how a number of resin companies get away with stuff -- I imagine it has to do with how closely certain copyright holders are watching. But however it works out, it's still counterfeiting.

Having spent many years in the advertising industry, where copyright questions arise every day (and incessantly on this forum), I recommend that you heed Bill Enger's advice to the letter. An example I have used time after time regards one of our members who had a cottage industry making decals, notably logos and other ID decals for Kenworth truck kits. Kenworth's lawyers tracked him down, sent him a cease and desist letter, and (within their rights) told him to destroy all his existing inventory. He did. After that, and you fail to comply, get ready for some expensive litigation. They got him on eBay, as many other corporations monitor; don't even think about trying to sell Ferrari merchandise that isn't officially licensed -- they have heat-seeking lawyers that can find anything. As Bill pointed out, you cannot take another's intellectual and copyrighted property, and use it in any way to make a buck. But if you make copies just for yourself, nobody's going to get you. This question arises so often that Bill should keep a file of his answer that he can paste into a thread every time it arises. Or perhaps it should be pinned on the forum somewhere.

Gorgeous. Beautiful detail, especially at this scale.

Perfectly hideous. And I mean that as a true compliment. I hope the Hooters girls show you their appreciation.

It would be cool if Round 2 could update and "accurize" some of Lindberg's reissues of classic Pyro kits like the Auburn Boattail Speedster and '48 Lincoln Continental.

4 years ago. After a few Alfas, Porsche 944 and C4 Corvette, this was the last car I owned that I liked. Driving a 4-dr G35 now. (This is what it's like to be hit by an Avalanche)

How do you define "fixed?" (Referring to the triple entry)

I have found that Meguiar's Scratch-X is killer for plastic model parts and has the bonus of working great on your car.

A couple of additional thoughts based on some terrific builds I've seen on this forum... 1. Engines and chassis -- use a wide variety of subtle metal shades to differentiate metal components from each other. Here, research is your friend. 2. Many parts of a kit have 1:1 separate pieces molded together. Take a craft knife to lightly score around those separate pieces... - In the interior, score around handles and armrests, as well as deepening the seams on pleated seats - In the engine compartment, score around all the stuff that's molded on the firewall, such as hoses, electrical parts, etc., and carefully mask for painting. This visually "lifts" those parts away from the surface behind them and adds precision. There's a very good tip on this forum by Gluhead about opening up door handles, with the same idea in mind -- http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71690&page=1

Is the main portion going to be straight-sided or round?

Wow, looks like your enthusiasm and hunger for knowledge are really paying off.

Don't forget to review and regularly monitor the posts and pinned articles in the forum's Tips, Tricks & Tutorials / Q&A section.

Got pics of the 1:1 parts you want to replicate?

Un-bloody-believable. I would never attempt the injector tubes, which you have totally nailed. This is 1/25 scale, and the engine is slightly underscale, so most watchers won't have a clue what's involved here. All of these parts are MUCH smaller than the photos would indicate. The engine block and valve covers, for example, are exactly 1" long. This is one for the ages. The distributor wiring is a work of great art and bravery, and everything here on the engine is better than has ever been done before. Stand in awe. This is the only kit of this car that exists, and so far you will never see a better build of it in your lifetime.

http://www.jimnohio.com/ You might also check Model Roundup and see if they can help. http://www.modelroundup.com/

Another masterpiece, of course. But where are the pictures of you, with the Hooters girls bending over the model? Put a side of slaw in the foreground.

Spectacular. Any engine and interior shots?

Research.

I don't know how you go so expertly from 1/43 to 1/12. Do you have any observations about lessons learned?