sjordan2

The instructions for the Fujimi convertible show it's a curbside, no engine at all.

Looks like a Revell 300SL-24, but could be a Fujimi/Testors 500SL. Is there a number molded on the trunk? Since the Japanese kits are notorious for curbsides, I would guess it's the Fujimi.

You don't ever stop, do you? I don't know how you keep this kind of jaw-dropping work flowing.

Nothing personal, but I think most members here don't consider what they're doing as "playing with plastic toys." It's a creative craft that is highly rewarding. Have you not seen the research and craft that go into the fine work shown here, along with amazing scratch building skills? Quilters have nothing to apologize for, nor do scrapbookers, ship builders, and other hobbyists, etc. It's a creative expression of personal interests, and for the best among us it requires a lot of blood, sweat, toil and tears. That's why there is a forum like this.

However it works, I must say that this forum has become much more civilized over the past year and the horrible posts of the trolls and flamethrowers seem to be a thing of the past. Congrats to the moderators and Gregg.

Because they're fun, they're cute, eccentric and an over-the-top guilty pleasure. Just like the girls I never introduced to Mom & Dad. And the cars work better decorating a desk in your cubicle.

One thing this previous posting shows is that now we're missing some option choices at the bottom of our Reply windows. We still have Edit, Multiquote and Quote, but what happened to Delete for one's own post?

I'm sure that nobody is surprised by the following tidbit of information... The design of the HHR has been credited to Bryan Nesbitt who was a former designer at Chrysler where he was the lead designer of the Chrysler PT Cruiser. Nesbitt was recruited by GM to join its design staff and served for a time as the chief designer of the Chevrolet brand. While Nesbitt was only partly responsible for the original HHR design (which GM had developed to capitalize on the PT Cruiser), it was in the works when he joined GM, and he guided it to production. He's now in charge of GM international operations based in Shanghai.

This is unbelievable. On the other end of the spectrum, you might be interested in seeing how one modeler is totally scratch building a 1/8 version of a car like this. I think it proves what incredible detail there is in your 1/43 build. http://www.scalemoto...-lago-t26c.html

Gisele Bundchen? Naomi Campbell? Kate Upton? Brooklyn Decker?

I would be falling down on my crusade if I didn't mention that it would help if your thread title was more specific, and people who know would be more drawn to your thread. How about, "Need reference help for a GT 40" ?

It's not so much how many images you have on Photobucket, it's more about how big the images are and how much bandwidth the larger sizes use up.

You may have seen this progress thread on an amazing 1/8 scratchbuilt GT40...(it's 43 pages, so get ready) http://www.scalemoto...lt-why-not.html Also, you might PM Cato to see if he can help. I might add that other build threads on GT 40s have indicated that there may be no such thing as a "definitive" or truly typical GT 40, since different cars were modified by different race teams and one car may have been changed from one race to the next, or even during a race.

You might also want to look at this work in progress journal. Page 2 has the clearest pictures. http://www.briansmodelcars.com/forums/thread/590538

You can use this currency converter to find the equivalent of GBP (Great Britain Pounds) to USD (US Dollars). http://www.xe.com/ucc/

Does anyone know of a source for very thin chrome pinstriping? I can't find any, and I would prefer not to have to do very fine cutting on BMF.

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I need to create some thin chrome trim for the length of the body of a 1/16 painted kit. I think using beading wire would be too difficult and unrealistic. My plan is to put down the masking tape and hit it with clear to seal the edges. Then, I need to lay down some black, probably 2 wet coats to add some relief/dimension to the trim. Then I plan to hit it with SpazStix chrome. How long can I leave the tape on without peeling any paint away? If you've done this, please let me know. The trim I'm talking about is at the separation between the black and the gray paint below - it looks like white pinstriping, but it's really metal.

Do you have the stock number? Revell may have the instructions to supply you with. http://www.revell.com/support/instructions.html

Tulio's tutorial is quite good. Once upon a time, Squadron sold a Thermaform process that worked like that, used mainly by aircraft modelers to duplicate canopies. I believe they have discontinued that product (supposedly using a "proprietary" material - I have several sheets left). Their instruction sheet is below: I used a heat gun - a hair dryer on steroids, which was intended for shrinkwrapping. I tried this on a dime and I could read the mint mark. http://www.squadron....view-sq9003.htm Someone may have more experience than I do on the variety of materials that can be used, but wouldn't vacuum forming sheets work, such as those below? They offer clear PETG and ABS for this application. This is also a good technique for creating glass T-tops (though you'll need to use your ingenuity for making the frames - maybe using the edges of the original T-tops or roof - and tinting the glass). http://www.widgetwor...&show=50&page=2 I also tried this technique on an experimental basis using thin, clear plastic covers for report binders. It worked - except those covers turn yellow over time.

I was wondering about the white fabric behind the seats.

Stunning stuff, superb craftsmanship. What's inside the hatch?

I assume this is what you're going for.

If you paint the truck black, there could be two ways to go: 1. Cut a stencil to paint the shape of the logo in gold on the doors, then print out the decal with black ink on clear decal paper. 2. Print the black logo on gold paper and cut it out as an appliqué.

I frequently get a small icon in the upper lefthand corner of reply boxes showing "g+1" (I'd show it, but it won't let me take a screen shot of it) This prevents me from entering anything in the reply box. When I click on that icon, it tells me to sign in to Google. How do I override that? EDIT: I just remembered I have a gmail account that I haven't used in a couple of years. Would that have anything to do with it?