sjordan2

This is another example of my frustrations of getting caught up in following a work in progress that isn't maintained or or just dies away. It's fascinating to follow for a while, then it evaporates. This build has been in progress for a year now. I wish more of our members would wait to publish a "build journal" after it's done, and not do a real-time work in progress if they're not going to finish the job. I understand that it's important to get responses and help along the way, but as I said, it's frustrating to follow something that doesn't go very far very soon.

Looks pretty cool. But it's a total drag to have to download individual pdf files one at a time, slowly, and have the files cluttering the desktop. Can't you just upload them to Photobucket and copy and paste in the IMG codes in your post?

Extremely nice work, excellent foiling. Did the door jambs and details come that way or did you do them yourself?

I vote real, original 1:1.

A little clarification may be needed here: I assume Erik's point is that the 3.8 Series 1 was an inline 6, not a V6.

Very nicely done! Very clean, love the color. A little more detail in the taillights would be the perfect finishing touch.

Just gorgeous. It doesn't get better than this.

That job makes him an ideal moderator.

Good example, PlasticMom. There's not much difference between a car shot at night or against a black background, as you can see in the link below. You still have to light it. Sunset shots are a whole different thing (and also require fill lighting to see detail). The big question is, how arty do you want to get? As far as the interests of this forum are concerned, we want to see the details of the build. http://www.photodesi.../portfolio.html This shot is cool, not very descriptive, but at least it depicts the essence of the styling. I think the top of the car must be highlighted.

Looks like it's fixed. Now I can hack into your classified e-mail. Welcome, Jason.

If you really want to see a Titanic scale model, there are at least two replicas in the planning that will be close to 3/4 scale, perhaps larger, for passenger cruising. One is being built by the owners of the Titanic museums in Pigeon Forge near me, and in Branson, Mo. Another one is scheduled to launch in 2016: http://www.wtsp.com/...Titanic-replica As you can see, the Titanic Museum just includes a replica of the front half; it does include a full-scale (supposedly) Grand Staircase.

That 1:1 restoration picture is pretty scary. I used to get my Alfa GT serviced at a shop where they were restoring a 246 GTS, and it appears Ferrari made a blooper when they switched from aluminum Dino bodies to poor-quality steel for the 246, which turned the cars into rust buckets after a few years - same deal with Alfas of the era.

Original shrink wrap or not, let's see how the kit looks when it's received. That's the acid test.

Seems to me like the key thing is to keep air and humidity away from the decals, no matter how you store it. I also put my instructions in a baggie and put the decals between the pages. In addition, I put rubber tires in a separate baggie or shrink wrap them together, away from the other parts.

It's pretty much like the party supply stuff. Semi-translucent. The blue tissue is translucent enough to see what's under it. I would add that I don't really know if there's bad interaction between plastic covers and decals, so I just take precautions. Seems to me like it's highly possible.

You'll need to talk with hawk312 about this kit that needs massive modifications to get it right. In short, be careful about paying big bucks for a very flawed kit. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52347&st=0&p=602291&#entry602291

The big question is, what kind of kits do you buy? New ones? Vintage kits? There are different answers. Erik's answer pretty much covers the territory.

Just to avoid any possible interaction between a plastic cover or a baggie with the decals, I do a number of things: decals in a paper envelope, decal sheets placed individually in a folded piece of paper, decals wrapped in blue tissue, etc. Blue tissue is used for many things to reduce intrusion or corrosion by other elements; keeps pure silver and silver-plated items in perfect condition, and is suggested for storing chrome parts for a long time. I have no idea what's so special about blue tissue, but it means I don't have to polish any of my silver heirlooms.

As to new vs. used, I have often bought 1:1 vintage auto parts that are listed as "NOS" - New Old Stock. Of course, model kits are often sold as "MIB," Mint In Box, which generally tells me the seller has checked out the contents.

I would think that in a high number of cases, original shrink wrapping might have a price sticker on it, or show evidence that one had been there. Whether the wrapping is old or new, I have usually asked the seller to remove it to verify that the contents are complete and in good condition - especially important since I generally buy vintage large scale kits where the boxes don't provide a lot of protection (like the 1/12 Ferrari I got that had broken A pillars). Over half of the sellers I contacted cooperated. As for the parentheses on "sealed," I wouldn't read anything special into that - he also put parentheses on "hard to find," so I'm guessing he just doesn't know how to use parentheses.

Oh, well. I spend so much time around here that I often forget one thing...there are a lot more important things in life than a forum on a website, and not much reason to make a big deal of it. I am indebted to Almaden Mountain Burgundy for this insight.

You'll need extra butter. Further: I think a moderator should take the responsibility to use a screen name that is closer to their real name, and not something weird.

I think we have a recently appointed moderator who is too quick to pull the trigger on locking and deleting posts. Can't find a way to send a PM, even though I know exactly how to spell his screen name and I know his first name (thanks to this site's weak search function) so I'm putting it here. Chill.

Bmpr stkr...

Outstanding work. That's one of the best carpet flocking jobs I've seen.