sjordan2

You can also find them at leather crafts stores. Speaking of which, a couple of tools I find useful are a Leatherman multitool and Swiss Army Knife.

No, I get you. I was using Factory Stock as an example.

The way I read your post is that there's a big difference between building a kit "box stock" out of the box, as is, and as required for some contests, and building "factory stock" which is accurate to the 1:1, without any particular customizing, but involves a lot more detailing.

Monty, once again, what industry are you in, performing what kind of job function, and what are you looking for? You will get more experienced help if you fill in those blanks.

Your best bet is to go the hobby store and check out the Evergreen or Plastruct materials for yourself. Everything's packed in plastic bags and you can feel the product to determine what will work for you.

I'm truly enjoying watching this. If it's as cool as your Morgan, it will be a masterpiece.

I know. This sounds like a job for PAA (Posting Addicts Anonymous). "Hi, my name is Virgil..."

I'll congratulate you this time next year when you have a maximum total of 10,100 posts.

Another great job, Felix. Excellent paint and fine detail work. I notice you do something I don't see too often, which is painting the wiper blades.

Superb, great job.

Richie - are you a Vols fan or graduate?

Excellent job. Looks real.

As you see, you've used up your allotted memory for posting pictures as attachments. From now on, you need to use one of the free photo sharing sites like Photobucket or Fotki, which give you nearly unlimited storage for your images. But any time you delete an image from anywhere, it will also be deleted from any of your prior online posts using those images. Go here for info on how to use them. http://www.modelcars...showtopic=12248

You may already know this, but our well-meaning friends are giving you links to national job search websites, most of which are pretty useless, and will charge you for rewriting your résumé. Further, you will be standing in line with at least 200 people for every job. WHERE do you want to work, WHERE DON'T YOU want to work? Are you willing to move? Lots of thngs to think about.

From everything we've seen, I think one thing is very clear...DON'T use your camera's flash for beauty shots! (Unless you're experienced enough to know how to balance all the rest of the light around your subject.)

Harry will tell you about his, but mine has good-sized metal arms, with springs and adjustable tensioning knobs for every moving part. Never a problem with articulated movement.

I feel your pain. A lot of job sites will be happy to take your money to rewrite your résumé, for somewhere around $250 a pop. But few of them have an understanding of what employers in various specialized industries are looking for. What industry are you in? If you send me your résumé, I'll be happy to look at it and see if I have any suggestions. I'm a professional advertising copywriter. sjordan47@comcast.net PS: If you don't have your résumé on Facebook, you should put it there.

You heard it from Harry - a testimonial from a professional graphic artist who uses it regularly. If you want a demonstration, why not go to the store, such as OfficeMax, and take a look? Same goes for Virgil's recommendation of OttLite. As for the perfection of light, I have a magnifying light that looks like Harry's LED, but mine has a fluorescent ring light that works just fine for me.

Gregg just started a post on a new model paint stripper called Blue Magic. Might check that out.

The same back-up system is important for copying instruction sheets. Sometimes difficult with map-style instruction folds, but worth the time if you can't find them at a place like Drastic Plastic.

Also, go down the page to Tips, Tricks and Tutorials, plus "How Do I..." For some of the more recent basics, go here: http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/tutorials.htm

Case closed.

Just one little thing that's bothered me since you posted this, and I have no reason to believe you're wrong, but what's your reference for this? I've done my best to find out how the Japanese pronounce it and I've posted my findings here, but I'd just like to know. So, how does the Tamiya family pronounce it? I would add that when I say what I found is closest to "TAHM-YAH,'" it includes the fact the the American pronunciation of the Y includes a slight E sound.

Just outstanding, and beautifully photographed. I don't know how some members of this forum achieve such great detail at so small a scale.

Tanks!