Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

W-409

Members
  • Posts

    7,164
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by W-409

  1. Excellent Dragsters, as always John! They turned out fantastic, and I really enjoyed following the progress on them. It is really amazing that you build these 1:1 cars....Oh I mean fantastic models in this short time. The detailing and overall finishing is incredible. You always manage to get the perfect shade of metal in your parts, they don't look like plastic at all. And your engines, frames, wheels and tires etc, they look very realistic, maybe it's because of the very slight weathering or something? I have maybe asked it before, or someone else has, but can't remember where, so what do you use for that weathering?
  2. The wiring looks very good to me also. And overall the engine looks fantastic as it is right now. I think the Go Mango paint will look excellent on the Willys. We've seen too much of these in Blue (I painted mine blue too, but nowadays I would have chosen another color). You are doing great job returning back to hobby.
  3. Nice to see new people in the hobby! I would suggest using Spray Can paints too. The results will be smooth and shiny, most people don't get that nice finish with Paint Brushes. Spray Cans are cheaper than AirBrush, and they are easier to use also, because there is no need to make the paint thinner, or search for the correct mixture of air & paint etc. But with spray can paints, primer is Must Have. Someone said about washing all parts before assembly... Well I think it matters what paint you are going to go with. For example, Revell or Humbroll Enamels and Tamiya Acrylic paints have never had any kind of problem. When I paint with those, I Never wash the parts. But when painting with spray cans, then yes, it is a good idea to wash the parts. But the most important is to have fun, and that's all what matters.
  4. Looking really good so far, and I got to agree with the others about the paint....Excellent color! Nice paint job too, and smooth BMF work. Nice and clean assembly and painting all over, too. I don't know how fast this would be, but since many Drag cars, even if they were street driven too or slower bracket cars, they have Seat Belts that are designed for Drag Racing Use. And they are mounted to the roll cage. The crossmember should be in straight level, now they can't be installed there. On the picture the crossmember is marked as "A". But this just depends on what class car you are building, and how fast it would be. Hope this helps.
  5. Yep, that is the same car before Luoso was driving it. But that's new info for me that Jukka set NHRA Record with it. I knew he raced with it in the States, but looks like it was running excellent.
  6. Great looking build, as always Matti. Even if you said the kit wasn't the best, it can't be seen from the final result. Only the inner fenders don't fit well to the body, but otherwise I find no problems with the kit or builder. The paint work is stunning, and I like detailing too. Nice work. From these 2nd Generation Chevelles, I think the '68-'69 is better looking than '70. But then again, the '71-'72 is the best. From all Chevelles and Malibus, I like '74 the best.
  7. Yep, that might be true. I don't know whose car it officially was, but it was Luppe Luoso who drove it here in Finland. But I do have all of the V8 Magazines and Street & Race Magazines from those years, so I will be checking this thing from there.... Just because it interests me too.
  8. Wow that looks excellent!!! I can't think of any possible ways to improve this build, so I guess it is really time to say that it is perfect! I have said this before, and I'm going to say it again: This is truly building every part like it would be a Model itself. And that's the way I like 'em! The little details like those spark plug boots, all nut and bolt ends on the engine and body supports, are really great to watch. And I think, that those little parts and minor details, are the thing that makes a model to stand out of the rest, even if many of the details are invisible when the build is completed, but it's nice to know that they are there. There is a lot of fantastic scratchbuilding, and other modifications behind in this build, and still more to come. I can't wait to see more. At the same time, I want to see this one Finished, but then again, when this one is finished, what build(s) can I follow as closely as this one??? It's a shame I didn't make it to the Show. But it was just a bit too far away. I'd like to see these builds Live and meet other Modelers from different countries. Well maybe some day...
  9. That is perfect Salt Racer Ford! And I agree completely with Fred on the weathering. Even If I usually don't like weathering that much, but on this one it just looks perfect. Nicely done all the way, The Pickup, Trailer and of course the Salt Race Ford.
  10. This was really cool to follow. With a few little modifications, the Surfite turned out much more interesting. Excellent job with the bodywork, paint is smooth and finishing looks great. Good Stuff.
  11. W-409

    Monkeyshine

    That is nice one! Excellent overall look and nice work with the weathering. It looks like an old '32 that has been years in a barn, and then HotRodder has built it and decided not to paint it.... Great job, and thanks for not calling it a Rat Rod.
  12. Great to hear this brings back memories. Here are some more. The first Cruising Night at Vantaa Yesterday. A shame that it started raining, but anyway we managed to get this years' first Tire Smokes! All Pictures are here: http://tapahtumakuvia.kuvat.fi/kuvat/Tapahtumat+2013/Cruisings/Vantaa/Vantaa+19.4.2013/ Yes, That Hot Rod has Blown Flathead. And of course, it left with old Cheater Slicks smokin'! Here's a short video I made:
  13. Of course all proper tools, paints and Evergreens etc. Then enough light, I have two big windows on my bench, and then two lights if (or actually when) I'm building at night. Good chair and of course a lot of great Rock 'n Roll records and LP-Record player where you can play them!
  14. Wow that is very nice Dart! You did great job on one of the maybe best looking Mopars ever made. Excellent paint job, and really clean and nice finishing. I like this one, it looks incredibly real in those pictures where it is in "Natural Environment".
  15. Yep, the forum is active and alive. It took a while to get my account activated too, but still it didn't take that much time as yours! I don't know what might be the problem, maybe DragMaster hasn't got your account to be activated? I don't know?
  16. Nice! Great to see Old School style rides from your bench too. This has the correct look and feel, nice color combo on the body and wheels, they fit very nicely together. Nice shiny paint job also, and beautiful details.
  17. Thanks guys, you are too kind. Darryl: I'd be happy if I could get at least one build completed without big breaks when the model is just sitting in the box for a few months time. Otherwise I like the style I build. Dave: Yeah, those straps turned out better than I thought. Usually they need one or two times of repainting before I can be happy with them.
  18. Nice Vintage Stock Car. You did excellent job with it, this is something that should be seen more often. Nice paint and decal work. Perfect finishing over all, thanks for sharing.
  19. Even if some Race Cars wouldn't be that glossy or shiny, I think it just looks better when the model is shiny or glossy, even if the real deal isn't... It doesn't look so nicely done, if the paint job is just left "As It Is" after the paint and clear coat. I have done this "Wrong" many times, just because it looks like the model is much better quality. Just like my '64 Belvedere in NASCARS Section. I guess the real car was not as shiny as my build is, but it looks better like that, it is VERY hard to make the car look good if it has Dullcoat or something on it, In My Opinion of course. But I will say this again: I know the Drag Cars better than any else Race Cars... They are usually very nicely finished, at least here in Finland. They are like Show Quality. And I guess it's the same thing in the USA. Of course not all of them, but some of them are very nicely done, and that's what I'm shooting for when I'm building. We had American Car Show here in Finland a couple of weeks ago, and there were Drag Cars and regular "Show Cars". The Drag Cars were just as nicely finished as the Show cars. The paint jobs were really smooth and shiny. An Example: That is as nice and shiny as you can get, I think.
  20. If you want to build Street Version of Shelby Cobra, I think the best one is Monogram kit. It comes with an uptop which is optional, and the engine is in Street Condition. The wire wheels in that kit are the best I've seen in this scale, if Photoetch doesn't count. Okay, it's 1/24, but there is IMO absolutely no difference between those two scales. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37691&page=1
  21. It can't get any better than this. Nice stance and perfect wheel choice, I've always liked Body Color Steelies. Very nice job, can't wait to see more, this is great inspiration for my '40 Ford A/GS which will be 1963 NHRA Legal (In The Gasser & AWB CBP). Keep the Eye Candy Rolling.
  22. WOW!!! Looks like I have to go and catch my jaw, it just dropped on the Floor. Excellent job, Chris. Every time I look at this thread, I'm completely blown away by these updates. You make it look so easy, are you sure it's not 1:1 scale instead of 1:16? :lol:
  23. I think it is always the best, when kit is Molded In White. Or then, in some other light color, like Light Grey. But I'm not a fan of Molded In Color-type of things, for example blue, black or red plastic is much harder to paint, since it needs primer and then it takes more time, even if this is not a Speed Competition. Anyway it doesn't matter if the Plastic Color is black or something else, since then it will be primered and painted properly. So it's better when the kit is Molded In White, but if the subject is interesting, I go ahead and buy it whatever the plastic color is.
  24. Okay, this is just for Drag Cars. Some 1:1 Drag Racers have only decals over the paint, and they should not be cleared, because the real ones are not either. But in all cars I build, the graphics, textes etc are painted on, when they are usually clear coated (Or At least sometimes), when the clear coat and polish is needed. I think it just looks much better when they are cleared and polished. Many Drag Cars are finished very nicely and they are shiny.
  25. This will be interesting to follow, as a fan of GM H-Bodies I've been looking for this kit too. I can't wait to see what you do for it.
×
×
  • Create New...