Mooneyzs

John... You have been a busy bee my friend, You never disappoint. What a spectacular update, putting your Teresi Talents on this one for sure. It's looking Killer. Keep up the awesome work Brother!!

Dang. Johnny Boy... That is looking great!! Love all of the detail that you have put on the chassis so far. I think the contrast between the blue chassis and black chassis tins, looks killer. I also love the little detail on the chassis tins were you added the Aluminium strip with the holes. Nice Touch!! Would love to see a pic of the rolling chassis with the tins on it. I am sure It looks Awesome!!

John... Awesome work on the rims and tires. They look awesome with your killer Alclad work, extra fixin's and the weathering you have done. Nice Job Johnny Boy!! Looking good as a rolling chassis

Paul... Engine is Looking good Buddy. Oh yeah... that's what I like to hear on the Pro Mod that is here in the valley.... not that it's in pieces. I think the Chassis spoke and needed to be in Brass anyway

Tim... That's great news, so glad to hear your shoulder is ok. Man that engine is just Gorgeous in between those rails. Those front motor mounts turned out Killer! Nice work as usual. You are always amazing us with your skills.

I use Acetate when I need to make a window. you can get a pretty big sheet at Hobby Lobby and the price wasn't too bad for it either.

Dave... Steller work as usual. This thing is looking killer. I can't wait until you get those clutch parts installed. Going to look killer!!

Tim... John's just that good ... He needs to hurry up and get us an update. I am on the edge of my seat to see what he will blow our minds with next.

Bill... I did some research on those Air Supplied Respirators, holy smokes a good $850 bucks to $1500 easy. I know That is probably the best way to go though. That's a big hit to the pocket book but something to work up to as you mentioned. Do you have a specific brand that you use? I did find a couple other things when I was doing some research and its making me consider getting a full face respirator that you can replace the cartridges as well. As an fyi, I spray my builds outside on the side of my garage. I will definitely be changing out my respirator more often and as I said probably will end up with a full face mask as one thing I red said that your eyes can be entry ways for Iso's as well as wearing a Tyvek paint suit, I actually have one that I bought a while back from home depot for less than 10 bucks I think, but haven't painted anything in a long while so I haven't gotten to use it. The thing is to be smart with the material we are using, I even mix my paints while wearing my respirator.

Bill... You are right that home owner applications have lacquer thinner and acetone in them. I pretty much spay House of Kolor and PPG Urethanes exclusively on my builds. I guess that's why I was recommending a respirator from an Auto Body store. I have to also realize that not everyone uses Automotive paints on their builds. This model of respirator that I am using, the charcoal cartridges are not replaceable on this mask. It probably is more efficient to buy a respirator that you can change the cartridges out on it. But when I talked to my PPG guy I did ask about going the route of buying one where you can change the filters out and he said it was just about as cheap to purchase a new mask at the price of the cartridges. As often as I paint since I am not a professional painter I am ok with paying a few bucks more for a new respirator when I need one. You are right 4 years is way too long to go with out purchasing a new one. I really have only used it on my funny car build since I haven't worked on anything else in the past 5 years. I also figured that since haven't smelt any fumes wearing it, that it was still good and if I was to smell fumes thru the mask, of course I would of replaced it then. I have already ordered a new one and will pitch my old one when it gets here.

My Brother what an awesome update. You sure know how to make this Beauty Shine!!! Nice detailing with the Rear Brakes and Rotors. As well as the Butterfly steering wheel and Hand Brake. Killer work You are continuing to impress me with your builds.

Tom... my personal recommendation is to get it from a Auto Body supply store if you are going to get one. The Respirators at home depot are geared towards Homeowner applications, While they would still work for our hobby but the filter media is more for house hold supplies. House paints don't have the solvents that Automotive paints have. I had spoken with my Local PPG Automotive paint supply store and he told me the same thing that its better to get a respirator that is designed for auto paints. It is just my own opinion about using a respirator for Automotive paints. here are a couple of links you can purchase them from: Ebay - $18.95 Free Shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-07193-Dual-Cartridge-Respirator-Assembly-Organic-Vapor-P95-Large-/351562472049?epid=764232043&hash=item51dac19a71:g:qigAAOSw53NY-mOq Coast Air Brush $24.95 http://www.coastairbrush.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=Respirator&sprice=&stype=&scat= Here is the package and a picture of the one that I personally use, and after finding the one on ebay for 19 bucks. I think I am going to order a new one because I have had mine for about 4 years or more at this point and I paid 25 to 30 bucks from my PPG shop for it and its the same part number, plus It will get delivered to me. When I am not using it I put it back in the package and seal it back up.

Tim... Nice Build you got there and It turned out great. Something about the 1/43rd kits has fascinated me and I just love then. I have a bunch in my model stash that I need to break out and start building. Again Nice job!

John... This thing I stunning my friend. Wow What a beauty and she is gorgeous. That color combo between the True Blue Pearl and Alclad is just awesome. You are crushing this build. Gotta say one of my parts of this so far is the fuel tank. I love the weld decals, Alclad work and what tops it off is the fuel stain mark. So cool and Realistic. Keep up the great work!

Mark... Thanks for checking in on this build. I am really close to the home stretch. Although I haven't had much motivation since GSL had a couple of hiccups when I got back but trying to get back to the bench. Charlie... thanks for swinging by and checking it out. I will remember your advice advice try to take it a little slower on the next one .... on another note I am super close to installing the rest of the fuel lines and making the motor come to life with your awesome Braided Line.

Dave... Man that is all looking awesome together. You are more than welcome. Just glad you are happy with the parts this carb set up is totally coming alive and looks like the real thing. Keep up that killer work.

You are welcome Terry.... also FYI the bondo I have shown here Part number 801 is a 2 part as well where you add the harder to it. I believe at O-reilly's will also have a bondo glazing putty as well where you don't have to add hardner. You could try both. It also may take a little trial an error on how much harder to add in the 2 part. If you add too much hardner it will just set up much quicker and you won't have as much time to work with it.

Here is my preference for Body Filler, It's a 2 part and this sands really nice, although this one is a little more pricey and I get it at auto body paint supply store: But as an alternate I also will use this Bondo 2 Part which you can get at any automotive store... Orielly's, Napa, Autozone...etc... probably for 10 bucks or less: These are my personal preferences as I am not a big fan of any of the model glazing putty's, some tend to shrink and Crack (that is if you put it on too thick). You also have to wait for it to dry a lot longer. The 2 part stuff I use, you can be sanding parts in 15 mins or less depending on how hot you actually mix it.

You know I am pulling your leg. I can't talk much since I haven't gotten any work done on the funny for 2 months or more now. I should of been done with it by now. Hope the new job is treating you well.

Paul... You are off to a great start on this and looking good with the pulley. I have one question... Why didn't you bring the Chevelle down.... HAHA

Brian using 3/16" tubing would be equal to 1-1/2" Dia tube. you are talking 1/8" difference between the 1-5/8" Dia tube. I will be honest that I don't know what tubing sizes Most Pro Mods use. I am guessing between 1-1/2" and 2" for the main structure. I know Dave (Comp1839) would know for sure, but I think you would be ok with using the 3//16 tube. Here is a tubing chart I did sometime ago:

John... What can I say Brother but this bike is just flat out Bad A$$ my friend. This has to be one of my favorite builds of yours. I think you took this bike to a whole new level and it is just Killer. You need to quit teasing us with the real bike and show us the model now . I am proud of you and I know your Dad would be even more proud. Love it

Just Beautiful Johnny Boy. I think you need to take pics of the model next time instead of pulling out the real thing . Love it

Brad... Thanks for checking in. I haven't gotten to the bench in quite some time. I have lost the motivation but trying to get back to the bench soon. But I have trying to update all of my threads that I have started with updating the photo's I have them all done except my FED thread from a few years ago and well This Funny Car thread. I am trying to get my photobucket sized below the 2GB storage because I currently pay for it and my account renewal is coming up at the end of this Month, July 31st to be exact. so I am going to cancel the storage there but not sure if it will bite me in the butt with this thread once I do that. I figured if I get it bellow I can leave it and proceed with Fotki but I am debating if I should bite the bullet and try to Migrate all of these pics in this thread over to Fotki before the end of the month. Its been a pain in the rear with my other threads but there are 220 pages to go thru and update here. Guess we will see what happens

Nice Job Curt.... That turned out great!