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Actually Harry it is not easy to understand, people need to keep their noses out of other people's business. Many individuals have handicapping conditions that may not be readily apparent to others. Yet they are just as needful of the use of a handicap parking spot as a person with a van, driver and in a wheelchair. My sister in law is the victim of a hack doctor(?) whom during back surgery "slightly" nicked a few nerves in her back, she now walks around unable to lift her foot to maintain a normal gate, this worsens the more she has walked during the day. She too is constantly reminded by well meaning oafs that the spot is for Handicapped persons... Her normal response is something like; "Well I'll tell my Doctor about that next time I see him..." Most of the time the idiot realizes they screwed up and goes about minding their own business. Another one we like to laugh about now. I had a guy working for me who came in telling me that he needed to go to his Doctor to get his Handicapped placard renewed. My response was something like, "what for, you stub your toe or something?" So he proceeds to pull off his boot and lower leg, Oops! He was working on his dad's fishing boat at 16. The ice auger got stuck, while trying to free it up he got caught in the auger which chewed his foot and lower part of his leg off. He occasionally developshot spots from his prosthesis which he never told anyone about because he never wanted the handicap stigma. I never knew about this, he wasn't hired with a handicapping status. This same guy has worked on our inspection crew for years, yet only uses his "Handicap" placard very occasionally when he needs it. He like a whole lot of others in that same boat would rather be able bodied, so much so that they go to great lengths to prove they can do every thing every one else can. So just because you can't detect a person's handicapping condition does not give them the right to hassle them. If they are that concerned then call a police officer, and let them sort it out. Sorry for the rant, and Harry I am not attacking you, you just illustrated how a whole lot of people seem to feel sorry if you feel like I stepped on your toes I didn't mean to. Edited for spelling/content error not caught by iPad.

I didn't see it until I saw this, I voted with all my multiple personalities (one that I know of), but they're mad at each other at the moment so they're not speaking.... I actually like slot cars a lot, but only check this forums slots section once and a while since it is pretty slow at times. Having painted a wood body a time or two (Pinewood Derby Cars), I have to commend you on that beautiful shining red paint. Bet it's even better in person!

0001 Maserati by some guy named Jairus Watson, (how come he didn't do a "Watson Roadster"?) 0077 BRG Triumph TR3 by Jaak Beentjes 0022 Cannaught Type B by Regis Baron

Trash the existing chassis and floorboard. The last time I built a Henry J I used the then new Reher Morrison Pro-Stock chassis under it, it was low. The Pro-Stock chassis was cut and pasted together to fit. From your pix you are looking for something with a little less race car look to it, you might start with the Revell Willys Street Rod chassis under it. It has a Mustang II front suspension to start with, the rear suspension isn't a parallel leaf so you might have to graft something back there. Really depends on how stock looking you're going for. Can't remember who the resin caster is but there is a similar (to the Willys) Mustang II based front end in resin, that might be another avenue to look at.

Here is the basic concept for the u-bend brackets that I was thinking. I've really never seen anything along this line, they are the basic bare bones of Hot Rod and Race Car fabrication, as you almost always need to turn 90 degrees to mount something. They don't have to be the same sizes suggested I just pulled those dimensions out of the air. Basic flat object with a radius on each corner 1/4 inch is pretty standard in manufacturing in 1/25th scale that would be an 0.01 radius or almost un-noticeable, so slightly rounded corner. Hole size, again go for a 1/4 inch hole or 0.01 there for basic location, the user could open it up or use as is. Basically what I am thinking in the world of flat would be, 4" X 5" with 3 holes across the 5" wide flange. When bent up in an equal leg configuration it would have (2) 2" legs and a 5" long flange, or the user could bend it unequally say a 3" and 1" leg and 5" flange... For the longer lengths, or cut to length a flat piece of angle stock again say 2" X 2" legs and maybe a 12" long flange with holes every 2". the user could then trim the flat angle to their required size and bend it to their required leg lengths. Please pardon the poor quality cell phone pic it gets the idea across though.

While you are at it a a fret of say 5 - 10 angle brackets would be great something that the user could bend themselves. With 4 - 6 holes in them so fastener heads could be located. Those would be super easy squares or rectangles, even a longer length that the user could trim to size. I'd buy a bunch of something like that. For Hot Rods you always need some sort of angle bracket.

To those who have voiced a dislike for answering questions, consider this. I have found the times I've been called on (at work, hobbies, etc.) to answer a technical question, that my knowledge and understanding of the subject grows with the relating and passing the answer to the other person. In regards to the pinned subjects. I was a little disappointed to see them gone, I often looked through them when looking for tips or techniques. I also read through the entire Tips, Tricks and Tutorials section now and then. I find I pick up something new nearly every time. My opinion on repetitive questions is though they may be a pain at times each of us has been therein our grasp of modeling knowledge. So unless there is some sort of subject specific repository where one can go to get their answers, then maybe the newbies and repeat questioners need to be cut some slack.

Daves Kustom Paint & Body does faux welds in a different way, scaled down it might be something as simple as dipping the end of a round toothpick into silver paint and layering the dots. Need to try this out and play with it. Sometimes the art of illusion is the easiest solution, after all how much would a weld bead stick up from the surface of the metal? Think about it, a 1/8" weld bead scales out to 0.005" which is pretty doable with paint alone. Another way it could be done to give it more height would be using a toothpick dipped in glazing putty overlapping the dots like a stack of dimes. Take a look and see what you come up with http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=a444T3X8NHg Part 1 http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=V5R--SM-n_U Part 2

This is not my original idea, credit is due to Ryan Townsend at Berserk Custom Paint The question comes up every now and then about how to duplicate welds on the surface of a model. While watching this video for a customer's project it hit me that this technique could be used to duplicate weld beads on a model. Just by reducing the size of the applicator used to lay the weld beads, the rest could either be done by airbrush or carefully layed down with a paintbrush. Watch it and see what you think, haven't tried it yet but it looks like it could work with a little practice. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PTTILRcMtlw

Not sure that you want a metalizer for this. If you closely look at argent silver wheel paint it is a metallic alright but there is a whole lot of clear mixed in there as well. I think I'd look for a true metallic paint, you could probably find a touch up paint in the small tube / brush kits that is similar, then shoot it on the wheels with an airbrush.

The "anti-roll" trick works well. Wish I had been using it before the X-Acto knife, (with brand new blade) rolled off the table between my thighs. My cat like reflexes insured I caught it in my left thigh six inches above the knee, buried just past the knurled part of the chuck. Wife thought it was rather humorous as did the entire ER staff. So, I must have figured that one needed topped. While using one of those saw blades on my Dremel hand piece running at slightly over 60 bazillion RPM's it sorta kicked back into my left ring finger tip. Making a rather clean slit up through the fingernail and stopping almost to the joint, nice white glisteney bone right out there to see. Wife's first question was, "did you hit your wedding ring?".... Then that irritated laughter over another late night trip to the ER. Same (female) Doctor, who remembered me from my knifing incident. Doctor told, me she couldn't stitch it up so she superglued everything back together, that everything should heal up ok, it did. She even gave me two extra superglue kits, telling me she thought that I'd need them in the future! (Haven't used them yet!)

Original Meyer's Manx, I think I was about 8 or 9, my uncle sat down and helped me build it. Introduced me to a whole new world of building models. Still got the itch to this day!

Is there an X-Acto Man figure on there anywhere? The X-Acto Man changed over the years, so if you can match that, you can sort of figure the year range. I think Art is correct it's probably '60's era.

Roy, if you choose to tint the baking soda here's how I do it, I got it from someone else too (not my idea). I think it helps to provide contrast between the filler and base styrene. Take about 2 tablespoons of Baking Soda then a couple of drops of food coloring, mix together until you reach a consistent color. If it's too light repeat the process until you are satisfied with the color. Next spread the mixture out on a plate, let dry completely, put it in an airtight container and use like you would regular old baking soda. Blue and green seem to show up the best for me, you can also use this method to match the plastic color you are filling if you want. Since I usually spray gray primer over it the color isn't an issue.

Interesting that you are using Baking Powder Vs. Baking Soda (sodium bicarbonate) they both share the same ingredient in common, Sodium Bicarbonate. The baking powder has other ingredients like Corn Starch plus a list of others. It would seem that the sodium bicarbonate is probably the catylist that fires off the superglue. I've been using the baking soda method for well over 20 years and have never noticed any leaching in the areas filled. The application method is exactly the same as you are using. Its been used under acrylics, enamels, lacquers, spray bomb, airbrushed paints, never anything leaching out from under the paint. Normally there is a skim coat of straight superglue over it which may or may not be kicked off with Zap-A-Gap Kicker quick i sand smooth then prime with an automotive primer. I tint the baking soda with a drop or two of food coloring to highlight the filler, so if there were any leaching it would be even more noticeable. I remember building that '58 as a young teen, it had most if not all of those same issues then, requiring a good deal of filler to make a decent model. Like what you are doing with this one, keep it going!

Another factor might be the airbrush's tip size, nails aren't a very big target so you wouldn't need a very wide spray pattern. Probably be great for detail painting but not a full paint job. What sort of price range are you thinking? That alone is going to dictate the compressor and airbrush that you end up with. Stay away from the Chinese made no name airbrushes on eBay, you will not be able to find parts (or service) when you need them so they are pretty much a throwaway. The cheapest airbrush in my arsenal is a couple of Harbor Freight Deluxe Airbrushes, with a little tuning they work fine, even for detail work. They won't do the job that my Badger, Paascche or Iwata airbrushes do nor can you expect them to. I've used the HF Deluxe on customer's sign work and cars (I know other sign guys who use them too). You have to remember that they are a throw away too. Something like that will get you started, get you used to cleaning and maintaining an AB, they certainly are a better AB than Badgger siphon feed and a can. I would also consider the Harbor Freight AB compressors as a low end starter, figure on replacing both down the road. They will get you started on better paint jobs than rattle cans deliver. By tuning, I mean breaking down the AB, making sure the needle is straight, polish the needle with fine grit (600 - 800) paper, check tip for splits or other imperfections under 10X magnification. Read up on airbrush tune up on the web there are all kinds of articles out there. Also think about picking up a copy of Airbrush Action magazine, educate yourself (and drool) on what's out there, be aware they will be pushing mostly high end brushes, it'll give you some ideas though.

Ed, thanks for the explanation, it gave me a starting point to go from, started with the chassis and interior panels then worked the body with Dremel and a sanding drum slow, speed and just a little at a time until it slipped in. It took much less grinding on the body than I first thought, in part due to the chassis and panel adjustment.

With Siamese porting only one of the shared cylinders is pushing exhaust gas out the port at a time so there is no need for a larger manifold or tube size to the center pipe. All the tubes on the exhaust are pushing out/handling the same volume at any given time, works well but maybe not the absolute inefficiency.

I think that I've seen some rounded tank ends in some of the Plastruct engineering and architectural lines, you might want to check those out. They glue right onto their round tubing, they are used a lot to model industrial tanks and stuff. Another place you might try is a model railroad supplier/catalog/shop they might have what you want nearly ready to use.

Ghosting or bleed through is seldom a problem with most of the old magazines that were printed on the heavier newsprint. At least I have not had any issue with it, not to say that it doesn't occur, been doing this for some time in B&W, color is just newer to me. I can see where it may be a problem with the newer slick paper (read that thinner paper) magazines. (The newer slick paper magazines were not the subject of the tip in the first place.) Good addition if that is what you were talking about. With the heavy newsprint the trick is to use the following pages to provide the density that blocks out the print on the backside of the page being copied.

While doing research for a project in some old Rod & Custom magazines I found some reference pictures for another Board Member's project that I copied off to mail to him. I just wasn't happy with the results, I copied them off on a pretty high dollar copier at work, still the details were washed out. I first thought that the pictures were printed in black and white, and monkeyed with the settings a little they still looked washed out. Lightbulb moment, remembered something from High School Graphic Arts eons ago and tried the color setting on the copier. Viola! The picture came out nearly as good as the magazine. The Tip is when copying pictures for research from old Hot Rods, Rod & Customs, Little Pages, etc. where the pictures are printed in the black, white and greenish blue. Copy in color and they will look very close to the magazine you copied them from. The other tip here is that I almost always copy the picture from the magazine(s) and work off of the copy, it preserves the old magazines just a bit more. I've been doing this even for artwork for a long time, just rediscovered the first tip lately.

Lighting Gels on eBay auction 271241483024 Anyone know how thick these are? Would be great if they are the thickness of the colored sheets that Revell used to put in their kits. Check the available colors, this is more along the lines of the stuff I'm looking for. Take it that you have used the Lighting Gels on a model before, what is their thickness? For ease of workability 0.010 ( 1/4" = 0.250 so 0.250 / 25 = 0.010 ) or 0.015 ( 0.015 X 25 = 0.375 or 3/8" thick ) both are stock sizes for plexiglass and would be ideal. Measured the clear sheet in a K. S. Pittman Willys kit and it is 0.006 thick. ( 0.006 X 25 = 0.150 or 5/32" thick ) might be a little thin for a race car. Oops, sorry the Engineer in me pops out every now and then!

Where can I find transparent colored sheet to use for Gasser Windows? Like Red, Orange, Yellow, Blue... Red and Green sheets on eBay what about other coolers and hopefully at better prices?

Starbucks, Barnes & Nobel... any Gift Cards. Once they are tapped out they become putty spreaders. I think I've got a stack of 20 of them, people even give me theirs when theirs are done. Once people know that you use them for something it seems like there is an endless supply, and that's just from family members! I also agree with using styrene to fill major holes and gaps. You wouldn't use putty to fill holes in the metal on a real car would you? Well, some of the old cars I've worked on sort of indicate some people would!! Do the job right and make some sort of patch panel when it's too big for Bondo alone. I know some people don't like it and it's a holdover from monster, Roth's Monsters and Weird-Oh's kits. I like using Zap-A-Gap thick super glue and tinted Baking Soda as a filler it can fill some pretty large voids. The other favorite that's good for seam filling is Zap-A-Gap and Zap-Kicker. I have models in my collection and other's collections that are nearly 20 years old without cracking, flaking or distortion using super glue. It primes just like the base styrene. I use a small hypodermic needle to control the application of the kicker. I've used the super glue, baking soda and kicker over primer before with no ill effects on/in the paint. It doesn't stink up the hobby room and half the house like Bondo either, don't get me wrong I still use Bondo. Like tools fillers have their uses, strengths and weaknesses. Match the filler to the application. Some people are intolerant to CA Glue fumes too, just be careful with any chemical in your modeling arsenal you can become sensitive to almost any chemical with enough exposure.

Nope, that's MPC trying to cash in on the "Street Freaks" running around then. That one is a little far fetched, Street Freaks for the most part were recycled Race Cars that found their way back on the street. Thankfully that look went away when we learned to narrow rear ends to put wider tires and wheels under the fenderwells where they belonged.