MrObsessive

Hey that's a neat idea! I oughta try something like that as I've got a LOT of old restorable models waiting to be redone! Since they're waiting for a resto, you need not worry about 'em collecting dust and whatnot...........beats keeping them wrapped up in a box, where at least you could see 'em.

Yeah, Shawn was one of my "sources" that I looked up for that car. Here's a list of what he currently makes-----this comes from John Sharisky's Fotki site............. If he did make that year Catalina and it turns up on eBay for instance.............expect to pay MEGA bucks for it!! That one is truly a rare beast if in resin---------it'd be much more cost effective for one to scratchbuild their own since the kits needed are pretty much available. AMT blew it years ago when they tried to foist that turkey of a kit which they called a "2+2"--------but was nothing more than a Bonneville with the trim removed. They did nothing to the actual body length of the car as it still has that long a$$ back end and too long wheelbase.

I looked through some of my resin references that I have bookmarked, and I don't see or know of anyone that makes one. I don't know how proficient you are at bodywork, but one could make a 2+2 coupe from the AMT '65 Grand Prix. Wack off the roof from the AMT Bonneville, graft it on the lower body of the Grand Prix, and change the rear end a bit to suit a Catalina, and you've got a convincing replica! You'd also have to change some minor things such as removing the fender skirts from the Grand Prix, as well as using the grille from the Bonnie. Also don't forget to change the left side upper window area to make it more symmetrical (and correct) to the right side. I'm surprised no one has done this one, as this is definitely a "Missing Link" from the resin world!

Like others, I give a big shout out to TAMIYA TAPE!! I've not found anything better for masking! The fact that it's somewhat flexible is a big plus too! Here's a few pics of the stripes I masked with Tamiya Tape............... For wider areas that don't need sharp separation lines...........I like using Parafilm-----the somewhat opaque stuff you see on the Mustang. Some hobby shops may have it, but it can be found at Micro Mark, or through eBay.

That's a gorgeous '48! I have this kit (along with an old IMC build posted elsewhere) and I never noticed the ride height! It looks great the way you changed it!

I personally would love to retire to Puerto Rico to get away from this...................... This is at the last house I lived in a few winters ago with my long gone Mitsubishi............with the high cost of heating oil now, winter has become one of my least favorite of seasons.

We had super heavy rains from Tropical Storm Hanna here in South Central PA a couple weekends ago. I've lived in my house now for two years and have seen some pretty burly rainstorms but the basement for the most part stayed dry.............it rained so much here that I had water trickling into my basement for at least a week after the rain had stopped! Half of the basement floor was wet....even to the point where my cats wouldn't go down there to use the litter box. One of them made a "point" of letting me know he wasn't going down there by leaving me a present to greet me when I came home from work one morning! Needless to say, the models that were stored in the basement were getting wet, and I had the real fun task of moving 16 storage boxes of models from the basement to the third floor. Trust me..............that's where they will be forever------I've got way too many stairs to keep moving 'em back and forth every time it rains! I do have a sump pump in my basement put in by the previous owners when the basement took on a foot of water from a tropical storm years ago..............but it hasn't worked this hard since I moved in.

I gotta tell ya........Testor's spray enamels are what caused me to get and learn to use an airbrush back in 1985. After one of their cans ruined a then rare IMC Ford Cougar ll kit......I swore never to use Testor's spray cans again. I ditto what Harry said................start using automotive acrylic enamels and lacquers! You'll sleep better at night knowing you got a nice clean paint job! Those paints are also more durable to handling that you'll inevitably will have to do when you got to final assembly. Testor's may appear to be dry even though it has sat for a week or more............but my experience has been they NEVER really dry rock hard as evidence by the paint deteriorating if handled too much! One cure for this is using a dehydrator-------but why go through all of that when something much better can be used?

Juha has been one of my inspirations to jump into the superdetailed realm ever since seeing his models in the old Car Modeler in the '90's. My favorite to this day has got to be his '73 Pontiac Grand AM that he converted from the old Johan '75 Cutlass. That's one I gotta tackle someday! I'd definitely like to meet him someday as I'd love to see his models in person! Hopefully he'll turn up at one of the GSL shows in the future! Or..................just hop on a plane and come over there------ I gotta brush up on my Finnish though!

Chris, do yourself a favor and get the Fujimi Daytona! Both are EXCELLENT kits as I have both the coupe and the Spyder. Details are abundant, but not as fussy as what's happening with your GTO. I originally built a Spyder back in the late '80's and even with what my skills were then, I didn't have much trouble building one at all! That's good to know Bob! Two of Fujimi's best kits are making a comeback! The price is not bad at all considering how much detail those kits have.

Great job on hinging the doors Jeff! The color is great too.........one of my favorites for a '67! I'm curious about the trunk mat too............I'm trying to replicate one for my '55 Ford, as they had the same Burtex type trunk mat.

That's a gorgeous one Ron! The color is super nice! Are you headin' to Toledo this year?

James, I've used Ambroid Pro Weld on Plastruct Styrene and it works quite well. Plastruct's styrene is a little denser than Evergreen..............I like their .010 plastic rod for piping on seats and it doesn't snap as easily around corners as Evergreen will. Plastruct also has different shapes in sizes that Evergreen doesn't have------for instance the half round which I use from time to time come in smaller diameters that I can't get in Evergreen. Likewise their hexagonal shaped rods come in just the right size to make lug nuts in 1/25.

This one here Nick.............. Looks like it might be started by Harold Bradford as it looks like one of his engines he's tooling up for it, but I could be wrong. This one............ I think may have built by Gordon Holsinger as it looks familiar............. I'd like to have been there today, but I got some catching up to do house wise before it's back to work tomorrow night.

I was meaning to post this a while back when a thread about the 1948 IMC/Testors Ford came up--------this one kept calling to me to take pics of it after being discovered from being put away for many years! Of course I couldn't find the boot for it, so thanks to Bill Stillwagon for giving me a spare boot at the Super September Showdown last week to put on the car! Thanks much Bill! Here's some pics of what she's like...............not a difficult kit to build, but a bit fiddly as most of the body parts are separate and the doors and hinges could use some reworking if I were building this as a new build today. The car was painted Model Master Light Ivory to replicate the "Maize Yellow" which was one of the few colors for the '48 Ford. I believe the interior was a mixture of Tamiya water based tans to get the interior color. Built pretty much out of the box except for the plug wires in the engine. I also think this was one of the first models where I used BMF..........funny how the Bare Metal Foil of the early '90's was much better than the ###### they're putting out today! The newer tool Revell '48 Ford's got it all over this old tool...........but there's something neat about building this car. Guess it's the nostalgia from how well the tooling has held up over the years considering the tooling was already quite old when Testors reissued this in the late '80's!

I hear ya Pat! Since buying my house a couple years ago............I've had a total rearrangement of what and when I buy things. Trips out of town have to take a back seat to what is needed for the house. Obviously, the house and it's bills have to come first not to mention when I went last in '03 I had no car payment either! Then there's GSL coming up next year in May that I gotta start getting money together for somehow............. You're right..................It's IMPOSSIBLE to go to Toledo and NOT buy something........the temptation is too great!

All of the above recommendations, I definitely second. If you've got a good, well stocked train shop near you, check them out also as they usually have quite a number of choices to choose from in styrene plastic. There's also different brands..........the one in my area carries both Plastruct and Evergreen styrene. As Jeff mentioned, it's a good idea to take the frame/kit with you so you can match what you need. There's just toooooo many sizes and variances to rattle off what might be needed down the road.

We just got our new vacation schedule where I work for our new fiscal year............so I'm gonna try and carve out some days off to make to Toledo this time! It'll be the first time since '03------hope to see all you guys there if I can make it!

Zoli, that's lookin' great man! The Mustang roof line seems to be a natural for a T-Top or a lift off Targa. It would be neat to see Ford offer that for the 1:1. Keep up the good work!

I'm not sure George as I've not seen the NASCAR version. Looks like he used the '62 Catalina as a starting point as the original '63 Bonneville's interior was never that crisp as I have one. I can see where he molded the separate door panels on to the floorpan........he just changed the pattern a bit to suit a '63. Seat patterns were changed too as Bonnies and Catalinas were different. One will have to send the chrome out to be plated (I'd send the dash too as they were quite chromey!). He suggests using Alclad chrome to paint the bumpers.........some may disagree, but IMO it just ain't the same as actual chrome------especially if you're going to enter a judged contest with one.

First off welcome! I think the only route to a '63 Pontiac Bonneville may be the old unbuilt or built kit you can pick up at a show or eBay...........get ready to pay big bucks for an original though! I know of no resin '63 Pontiac Bonnevilles..............but as Ed mentioned, Model Car World makes a '63 Catalina which I picked up at the Super September Showdown this past Sunday. Here are some pics of what you get............. IMO, the kit is excellently cast! No pinholes, very little cleanup! The only drawback is there's no glass.............Dave suggests using the AMT '63 or '64 Impala kits, but if I get around to building this, I'll use clear stencil sheet and make my own front and rear glass. You can use the AMT '62 Catalina for chassis and running gear and Modelhaus sells those beautiful 8 lug wheels and thin line whitewalls which can make this a real showpiece! IIRC Model Car Garage sells scripts for the '62 which are close for the Catalina for a '63, although paying $17 for a couple scripts is a but much. I really don't care for the decals though. One faux pas I see in the grille casting is the Bonneville script is still in place. For $45, this is an excellent buy IMO!!

:lol: :lol: Yikes!! That looks too convincing! Maybe I best NOT go there...............They may not let me leave!! :lol:

Chris, I gotta agree with your there! While I love the oddball cars out of the '50's-'60's 'cuz that's what I saw as a kid............I really do wish they would kit more modern cars that are begging to be modeled. Why is there no kit of the Sky or Solstice? They're certainly sporty enough and I see them all the time! Also a new CTS sedan or upcoming coupe would be nice! Oldies are nice, but it's the new iron that'll draw the younger folks in.

Another tip for candy paint is to do your painting in a criss-cross pattern. A few strokes in one direction, a few strokes in the other direction. Count your strokes each time per side so the coats will be even throughout. This will minimize "zebra stripes" if done this way since candies are so transparent. Hope this helps!

Congrats Chris! Your awards were well earned and deserved! This is the first I had been to the show in maybe 5 years? I really liked the setup than before as the lighting was much better than being downstairs in the "basement"! There were so many entries though I'm afraid we'll have to get a building stretcher as space was at a premium for quite a few entries!