MrObsessive

Gregg, I would think that it should be because of the type of show that it's in. I'd think they'd only want the best of the best.......and authenticity would be paramount. I agree that is a beautiful color! I've never seen one painted that hue before!

I LOVE the roof swap on that one!! I have a soft spot for those 1973-77 GM intermediates as I took Driver's Ed in a '77 Cutlass Supreme. Your roof swap is spot on! Not a big fan of the graphics but the super clean body work is top notch! I've got one of those Johan '75's and was thinking of that type project years ago.............but wanted to convert it to a '76-'77 car. There'd be a bit more body work involved though as none of the body panels interchanged 'cept for the roofline and maybe the trunk. Anyone remember when you could order those with a 260 V8 and a 5 speed?

Alright! A man after my own heart! I LOVE his body work and inner structural work................he keeps everything nice and symmetrical which is important when doing something this size. The way he did the window channels it looks like he could do roll up windows, but I see no window regulators though. I've definitely bookmarked this one as I want to see the outcome!

Is your trouble knowing how to apply BMF? 'Cuz I know of no paint that can match BMF for brightness.......although Alclad "chrome" paint comes close, but a little troublesome for small areas such as window trim. BMF requires practice and a brand new #11 Exacto knife. A steady hand comes in handy here too------but as I mentioned, practice makes perfect. If you have a model that has trim that's not very well defined, you may try lightly (and carefully) scribing the area with your blade before painting. This will leave a bit of "tread" so that when you paint and get down to final detail, it'll be easier to do this area with BMF. Also when cutting BMF, let the weight of the knife cut the foil...............don't press down on the knife as your sure to get a slip and cut into the body, or slice across the trim itself. BMF is NO substitute for bad or sloppy paint or shoddy body work! Whatever is under the surface of the BMF, will show through when it's burnished down. So you want to make sure your paint is top notch with no orange peel, and if there's body work------it's done super clean and smooth. If you check here, there's an excellent slideshow by Dennis Doty on applying BMF. Hope all this helps!

When I built my D-Type-----I used Krylon "Hunter Green" with just a touch of black over a black primer. The car I modeled was out of a magazine and like Bob said, nearly looked black in some photos. Now I used an airbrush in applying mine..............I'm just not a big fan of any spray can for painting bodies.....

I was right! The bumper bolts were the giveaway for me..............a lot of modelers don't add them, and the chrome was just too perfect! I think this may be the most replies you've gotten for ROM Harry!

Looks like the Model Car Garage has a detail set...........but it was made for the old tool AMT '57. I'm not sure if this would work for the new Revell one or not. Probably wouldn't hurt as you're adding trim to kind of a blank sheet so to speak. Click on the pic below which will take you there............. HTH!

Nice and clean build of one of my favorites Brendan! The tonneau cover on the passenger side is especially nice!

You can check here too Harry.....he's got quite a bit of resin parts for 1/8 scale!

Hmmm.........I thought the Fujimi kit was out? I see 'em listed on HLJ as "In Stock". Anyway, I'll be watching this one Chris as this is one of my favorite modeling subjects! I have the original Protar kit.............and yes, the wire wheels are amazing for a plastic kit. I'd like to see the 1:1 that it's based on--------it's funny how they "restored" it. I can't imagine them doing that today to what's a multi-million dollar car!

I mentioned on another thread how I won't buy from sellers who can't take decent pics. He says..............."KIT HAS BEEN STARTED LOOK CLOSE IN PICTURE ENGINE STARTED, MUFFLERS AND A FEW CHASSIS PARTS NEATLY PAINTED, WINDSHIELDS AND REAR LIGHT NEATLY GLUED IN PLACE NO GLUE MARKS" How would we know that with such a faraway pic??? How hard is it to take a close up of a model unless your intent is to trick folks into buying? Unfortunately, someone will buy this junk not knowing (or thinking) this is the original when like you said Dave, it's the later issue body. I got the reissue a while back and that's the first thing I noticed was the missing fender vents which were on the 1:1 K.I.T.T. from 1982-83. Resin kits are especially dangerous to buy when you can't see a GOOD closeup pic! In fact I'm very reluctant to buy any resin kit off the 'Bay, unless it's Modelhaus..............I might as well order from him in person just the same.

I'm about to order some Parafilm from them.........that's the only place I know of that has it! That stuff is great for masking next to Tamiya Tape. Was at the LHS today to pick up a couple things...........they had a somewhat reasonable facsimile of Parafilm, but a roll was $17.99!!!??

That is nice and smooth Izzy! Now if you can get the steering wheel to turn the whole works..........I'll definitely pass the torch! Hmmm...........how many turns lock to lock for a '32 Chrysler?...............

Oh yeah!!.............At least some thin line whitewalls which would be correct for a '62.

I'm gonna say real..................there are certain details that don't show up on models.............

Like Izzy, I too use between 20-25 psi for painting with my airbrush. I have a dual tank compressor which has a built in pressure guage............... Also I've found that even though I decant aerosol paints into an airbrush jar, I still thin my paint out to the consistency of milk for airbrushing. Lord knows how much pressure is in those cans so I can't trust that just because the spray will come out of the can, it may not with the pressure I want to use for the compressor. As others have mentioned------I believe low pressure is your culprit. HTH!

Don't forget-----if you convert the AMT '67 to a '68, you'll also need to change the rear fender vents as they aren't the same.

Hey Cruz............Here ya go! While every nut and bolt & placement may not be exactly to 1:1, it's the best I had to offer when I did this in 2000. HTH!

Now that is a nice truck Randy! I especially like the wood treatment for the bed! BTW, how've you been doing since your mishap?? Hope things are much better now!

Gramps, when all else fails for that part you need..........there's always The Modelhaus.

This was actually a double post 'cuz he originally posted it here. There were a lot more responses to that first post.........

As a fan of all things Stude..........especially the Starliners and later Hawks, that is a great job Slim! The bodywork is flawless considering what you started with.........

Yes, that was for a '61 Ferrari 250 GT SWB that I built during 1998-99. In fact the engine is Norm Veber's from Replicas and Miniatures Company of Maryland. The BEST Ferrari V-12 kit you can buy for any vintage early '60's Ferrari! Norm gives you a "book" on building it so it's definitely not for the faint of heart............. My trouble with building a blower type setup like you did would be where to route all of the lines and such............I have yet to attempt something like that!

I see what looks like a '62 Ford Boxtopper sans the hood which is a definite keeper! Those are as rare as hens teeth...........

Awesome job with that one Greg! I like the backwards writing on the rear backlite...........very clever! If you want a hair graying attempt at linkages...........just click here!