highway

I think this one is the R34 Nismo, I know it's a Nismo, but not sure on the R34: This one is from Tamiya, and is a very nice kit, no engine, just curbside.

The newer ones are great, but this is an old reissue of a battery powered toy that has a junk interior, the floor pan touches the steering wheel! There was also a 79? Camaro that has the same junk interior.

Or you could use clear Evergreen sheet to make a new piece.

Here's a site that may help you with the repo arm: http://repotruck.com/ There are some decent pics there.

I've tried putting the parts in the freezer and it worked on some super glue. I have also seen, but not tried yet, a similar process where you run the parts under water, then put it in the freezer overnight. I assume with that process, the water gets in the joints, then when it expands from freezing, the freezing water pulls the koint apart.

Thanks, too, Tony. I checked the link you put up, it said "Coming Soon", but I also checked the regular website and didn't see that one listed yet, but definitely will be looking for it!

I hadn't seen it, either, but it would have saved me a lot of work on this: It would look good beside it, too!!

I AM DONE because of all this MADNESS!! I thought this was supposed to be a REVIEW , not an ARGUMENT on the kit!! I guess I'll either check out the kit my friend bought at our LHS or BUY ONE (Yes my LHS still has one or two on the shelves) the next time I'm there!!

I just wanted those of you who may have one of Monogram's Ford F250 or F350 kits that I posted a detailed post in "1:1 Truck Reference" of my 1990 Ford F350 4X4 Heavy Duty. Here is a link to that post: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=30068&pid=294641&st=0&#entry294641 This will help anyone who wishs to convert the trucks to 4X4s.

Just remember, too, the T/A had the exhaust coming out in front of the rear tires, not the back. Beautiful build, though!

The Ford 10.25 rear axle from rear: Heavy Duty drivers side rear spring and sway bar link from front: Heavy Duty passenger side rear spring, sway bar link, and shock from drivers side front: Passenger side upper shock mount from drivers side front (drivers side upper shock mount is the same, both shock tops face front of truck): Drivers side lower shock mount from front (again passenger side is identical): Front half of drivers side rear spring from beside truck: Rear half of drivers side rear spring from beside truck: Drivers side rear spring and axle from rear: Passenger side rear spring and axle from rear: I hope these pictures help in your projects, and, as I said before, feel free to ask any questions or if there is something you may even need another picture of, I will be happt to help in any way I can. I must note, you will not find the rear springs pictured in any of the Monogram kits, the kits have the standard dually springs. As I mentioned in the opening post, this truck was built as a heavy duty chassis cab, not a standard dually. This truck has a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of over 12,000 pounds, with a front axle Gross Axle Weight Rating of approximately 4,000 pounds and a rear axle Gross Axle Weight Rating of approximately 8,000 pounds. My GAWR on the rear axle is about the same as the GVWR of approximately 8,000 pounds for a standard factory built dually!

The Borg Warner 13-56 Transfer Case from front drivers side: Transfer case from rear: I should also note, I did not get a picture of the passenger side of the transfer case, I plan to, but there is a cover on the passenger side for a PTO.

Front Dana 60 Monobeam Axle: Drivers side front spring from front: Passenger side front spring and steering from drivers side: Close up of passenger side front spring: Drivers side front spring and steering arms from under passenger side front spring: Rear of center section from rear under front driveshaft: Rear of drivers side front spring and sway bar mounts from side (next two pictures):

This is some more technical data I quoted in the previously mentioned thread from my Haynes repair manual for Ford Pick-ups & Broncos 1980 thru 1996, and the available axles it covers are as follows, quoted from the manual: "Four types of Dana front-drive are available for Ford 4X4 truck application. The Dana 44-IFS (independent front suspension) is available on Bronco and F150 4X4s. The Dana 44-IFS-HD (heavy duty) is available on the F250 4X4s. The Dana 50-IFS was available on F250 and F350 4x4s and is now an option on the F250 only. Finally, the Dana model 60 Monobeam axle is now standard on the F350 4x4." "All IFS axles are basically alike with only minor differences among the three. The 44-IFS is on vehicles equipped with coil front springs. The 44-IFS-HD and 50-IFS are on models with leaf front springs. The model 60 Monobeam is a solid axle design mechanically identical to the model 60 rear axle." For those of you who want the IFS axles, Monogram's early 80's Ford Bronco sounds like a great source, another would be AMT's 80's Ford Bronco. I also failed to mention in my previous post, all pictures will be labeled as to what they are and what you are seeing, and from what direction relative to the front or rear of the truck. It will take me a little time, I have a lot of pictures to transfer and describe, but will be posting them regularly. If you have any questions or need another more specific picture of something, please feel free to ask.

There has been another thread recently concerning the reissue of the Monogram Ford F250 and converting it to a 4 wheel drive. This is the link to that thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29879 I had a few requests to post pictures of the axles found under my dually, and thought this might also be useful to fellow modelers. I, myself, will be converting the F350 kit into a 4X4, as it will be a replica (I can't call it factory because the real truck was not build by Ford the way it sits today) stock of my real truck. This is what the truck looks like today, and sorry, but I didn't have time to wash it before I took the pictures! The truck was built as a heavy duty chassis cab, the former owner was my boss at a towing company I worked for about ten years ago. The truck was formerly a wrecker before he had removed the wrecker body and put the stock dually bed on the frame. If you look closely, you can see the only telltale sign that this was not a standard dually, there is a six inch gap between the bed and the cab. Here is some of the technical data of the truck: Engine: 7.3 Liter non turbocharged (It is not a Powerstroke) Diesel Engine Transmission: S5-42 ZF 5 speed manual transmission Transfer Case: Borg Warner 13-56 Front Axle: Dana 60 Monobeam Rear Axle: Ford 10.25 The Dana 60 Monobeam was only offered in the F350, so it is correct for the F350 dually kit and for the F250 kit would only be correct if you plan to build a single rear wheel equipped F350. The rear axle in both kits is the Ford 10.25 (10.25 inch ring gear) unit, as in my pictures. The kit I plan to source the Dana 60 from is this one: These are stock parts for the Coronet not used in the Pro Street kit, of course, some modification must be done to the axle tubes. I must warn you, the pictures show you what you'll need for the conversion, but the truck was a worker before I took ownership, and is 20 years old, so please don't laugh at the oil leaks and grease, I've not been able to fix them yet!

I wouldn't be so hard on yourself! Dumb, NO! Different, YES!! Take it from a real trucker, you never know what you can think of when you're high on DIESEL FUMES!!! I like "MINIWORTH" myself!

I've not gotten too far since the last in progess pictures, I've been trying to source some extra parts, but I have finally gotten everything in the same color primer and have my fuel tank mounts glued to the frame and the front four fuel tanks mocked up. I still have to figure out whether or not to build mounts for the final set of round fuel tanks and the square fuel tanks I'm using for the water storage tanks, or just glue them to the frame after it's painted. I also found a set of battery boxes in my Mack Superliner kit that aren't used, so I'm mounting them behind the square tanks as steps to the rear deck plate, and one will serve as a toolbox while the other will be for the "hidden" generator. I also decided I'm going to add a moose bar to the front end, I mocked it and the front bumper up with some tape. I may not use this one, I may scratchbuild one that fits the bumper better. I think the moose bar gives the front end adds some more style to a front end that is already one of my all time favorite styles.

Like I said, you ALMOST got away!!!

It sounds like you almost got away!

I don't really know much about it, but if it's 1:25 scale, I say "START SINGING"!! At four bucks, that's one heck of a deal, even if you only use it for parts!

The way Mustang described it, he pulled in front of the truck, so first, both were moving. Mustang said the rear corner of his car was hit, so I would say Mustang almost had the truck cleared, especially with only $200 damage to the truck. I would probably say it was a glancing blow, so Mustang was probably still moving forward after being hit, and may have gotten spun at least at a 90 degree angle, if not did a 180 or 360, but would have at least been pushed clear of the rest of the tractor trailer. If he wasn't moving, he would either not be here to post anymore or would have been in the hospital for a LONG time. I once had a accident on a two lane state highway where a Chevy S10 was pulling out of a car lot (the poor guy was test driving it!) going the oppisite way (I was travelling south, he was going north) and a Jeep Wrangler rear ended the S10. I was travelling the posted speed of 55 MPH, the S10 was getting up to speed, was probably 30 to 35 MPH at the time, and the Jeep (the driver was not paying attention) was probably going 55 to 65 MPH when he rear ended the S10, and when the S10 was hit, it was sent at about a 30 degree angle straight into the tandem axles of my trailer. Luckily the S10 did not go under the trailer, they would be dead if they did, and I would have probably rolled the truck on its side. The S10 did hit my outer tire on the first trailer axle (that's what saved us all) then bouced off the rear axle's outer tire, flattening both outer tires, then the hood caught my trailer's rear bumper, which ripped the hood off the S10 and threw the hood in the ditch. The very scary part for me, though, was, other than being my first accident in a tractor trailer in almost 8 years of driving (at the time it happened about 5 years ago), I did not even feel the S10 hit me and did not know until I see the outer front tire falling half way off the rim! The moral of the story, if you have an accident with a tractor trailer, especially at highway speeds, you're either going to be lucky, seriously hurt, or DEAD!!! By the way, everyone that was involved in the accident I was in walked away with only very minor injuries!

The easiest way I can think of is to find a pro street or even a pro stock dragster kit and cut the tubs from it and graft them on your truck. I have also seen, though never tried, using the cap from an old spray paint can, or other containers with a round lid, cut it in half and you have two matching wheel tubs. If you use the spray can cap, you would have a lot of adjustablity as to how wide or narrow you want the tubs to be.

LSU, I would use this kit as a starting point: Testors also made a 1980 Corvette that has the correct front fender turn signal, but this appears to me as if it is a modified snap kit and is not very well detailed. The rear bumper appears to be a 83 to 87-88 Vette rear bumper, and the front fender turn signals could also be used from that era Vette. The headlights could be sourced from a 77-78 Trans Am. The rear spoiler appears to me like it may be a 82 to 89 Trans Am (like KITT from Knight Rider) rear spoiler.

You must remember, he's CANADIAN!!! Kilometers =KPH is much higher than miles =MPH. If I remember without going to the driveway, 65-70 MPH is around 100 KPM. And just to let you know RJ 18 wheelers are VERY capable of 100 MPH, too. I had a Mack that I drove that would do that all day long! The fastest I ever had a truck was around 120 MPH or 130MPH in the open deserts of Nevada. Not all, Harry!

Sergey, wonderful work! I love the detail work you did on the Ford and Can Do. What did you use for the mesh in the sleeper storage compartment on the Ford? That is very similar to the real netting used in the real things! I also glad to see the broom, shovel, and oil can on Can Do, those are three details no wrecker should ever be without. I drove heavy duty wrecker here in the states, no trucks as pretty as Can Do, though, and we needed the broom and shovel to clean up messes from crashes, and used the small oil drums to put the mess into. Again, wonderful work!