Deckerz

Yep, iv been painting for years but iv never had to mask when i use acrylics but when i have masked in the past iv been using cellulose paint and masking tape doesn't tear it up. Yep i use primer, do all the prep work and before paint i wipe it down with wet wipes to get any extra dirt off.

This is acctually really cool, i think im going to start saving now. Could make any model car parts from it and when its as a image on the PC i think you can edit it so if theres any warping or flash on parts you can't get at simply delete it.

Alright guys thanks for all your help. Oh my sharpie ran out ah well only £1 from the newsagents.

Iv run into problems lately with masking, i use tamiya acrylics for paint. The problem is once iv shot one colour i usually wait 24 hours before shooting another, iv never had to mask before because i usually do fade effects but iv got to mask for the project im working on right now. I shot flat black for the front half of the car, waited 24 hours, masked onto the black to paint the back half but when i took the masking off (i always to this slowly) i took some of the paint off too. If i shoot the black again then clear coat it should this prevent the masking from tearing the paint off? Also what is the best masking tape? Iv just been using conventional painter paper tape from hardware store.

Im going to buy a 1/24 2004 impreza by airfix from my LHS but before i do i want to know what the quality of the kit is like, eg. mouling lines, warping, sink marks, flashing ect. Edit: This is the kit, it includes paint which i will only use for detailing and humbrol glue, i use that glue anyway, its great stuff.

Wow much cheaper then here in the UK, $12 is about £7 but over here in my LHS the subbys are £16 - £20 which is outreageous TBH.

What was the eaisiest way you found to detail the grill and the inside of the head lights?

Looks sick, another reason i want to get this kit is for that beautiful 6.1l hemi. A famous car designer said "The perfect car must have both male and female characteristics.".....The charger definatly does, the front half of the car is male, the back half is female.

I agree no problems, i used black sharpie after the cars colour was done then put a few mist coats of clear on (strictly mist coats if its water based paint) just to seal it but not wet so it will run, i used tamiya acrylics for the paint.

Nice project, colour is abit bright for my taste but its your car. Great start, iv wanted to get one of these subby kits for ages but they always go for more then my budget.

They look real nice, thanks for the pics. I will use real car tinting, will be much eaiser and probaly cheaper, the only probelm im facing with this though. I had to repair damage on both sides of the rear window, its now fine sanded and polished to clear but when i add the soapy water for the tint, will it wash off the polish and show the sanding again?

Maybe i should have explained better, its not the outside window surround, its a black surround like a sun strip all round the window.

As most of you probaly know im working on a 2006 mustang right now, the first thing i need to know is how to paint the window surrounds and secondly, could somebody post a pic of the results of testors model master transparent black window tint spray? Thanks.

Ah its such a hard decision haha. I agree, that stealthy, aggresive nose really sets it off, i like the old muscle car kits but they annoy me with chromed parts...you know when you get the off the tree and theres a little bit of flash the you have to sand, then you end up repainting the bumper. Yeah i found one build of the charger through google, the wheels are abit to thin and the rims are too small, perfect for a old muscle car i think.

The wheels came out real nice! I found best way to do the tail lights was to wash them in dish detergent with a tooth brush, it will not scratch and will give a good surface for paint, use tamiya clear red on the inside and spray few coats on, after dried used thinned black as a wash for the outside of the tail lights to do the lines, if you go over the lines just wet a cotton bud and it will take it off.

Welcome to the forum! Great detail on the car expecially the engine, nice job, hope to see more from you.

Il get a detail set for my mustang and use the metal wipers, no point in using them on the mustang because it has moulded ones. Got any pictures of yours?

Yeah, think i will go for the 330, i just hope this kit isn't warped too.

I can only afford one but im not getting them off ebay, my LHS is having a clearout of some kits that nobody bought, he has about 5 330s and around 15 superbees.

Im going to be starting another build in replacment for the gtx soon but i can decide which kit to get, both are by lindberg. Either a 1964 dodge 330 super stock, i would build this custom of course. Or a 2008 dodge charger superbee, again another custom. Its a hard one, i know the quality of the 330 is very good and i love these old muscle cars but on the other hand i love the new style charger, expecialy superbees but i don't know the quality of the charger because iv never seen anybody build it. I can get these kits for the same price but its either one or other, you guys decide because i can't.

Well....this project is unfortunatly canceled, all the parts of this kit will be for trade. The reason is that parts are warped and i don't want to modify parts because i usually mess up and then that will be a waste of money, the chassis will sit level off the body but when on the body the front left wheel will lift, pics show but as i said everything from this kit will be for trade from the door handles to the body.

It looks like is sits in very nicely, dare i say it suits the engine bay better then a v8. Was it hard to make the new mounts for the engine?

Thanks man, yeah i think it looks abit big too, its suppost to be a after market shifter for old muscle cars, i was originally going to use a sequential race style shifter but i can't seem to find them. I should be able to get the second colour on, i did some editing on photoshop and i think silver would look better for the back, i only have met silver though which should be a good contrast....i need to get some tamiya flat clear (not can) too but i can't seem to find that either.

Keep it stock i think.

OK got some paint on it finally, this was done with my new airbrush, its a single action bottom feed and it sprays much nicer then my duel action gravity feed and it only cost me £4, i was going to wait for more primer but i needed to get it painted really, the front is tamiya flat black, the back half will be tamiya light green, i should get the new hood, decals and strut brace soon and also there is a suprise on the horizon.... The paint went down very nice, had to be my best yet, it is still drying in the pic so you might be able to see slight tiger stripes and such but its come out very nice.